Problem with the Summit Raptor Pro

I am getting close to having the wiring complete and was checking each circuit and hit the wall with the turn signals and driving lights. Everyone says to check all of the connections, then re-check the grounds. All of my connections are crimped, soldered and waterproofed with heat shrink tubing. I went through them all, then added ground blocks to each region of the chassis, with the blocks connected back to the battery. Still having problems. I them took apart each section of the turn signal circuit and tested with a meter, then made a test light circuit to check each segment of the circuit. Ends up I have a bad button in the right turn signal on the steering wheel aspect of the Raptor. This is a sealed unit, so I need to get in contact with them.
 

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Steven Lobel

Supporter
I assume it only took 20 hours to figure this out and it was the last possible thing that it could be?
If so, sounds like exactly how it plays out for me as well. You are doing great skilled work.
Also, in image 6311, I see a clear piece of HVAC tubing. I do imagine a hamster in there at some point.
 
I am getting close to having the wiring complete and was checking each circuit and hit the wall with the turn signals and driving lights. Everyone says to check all of the connections, then re-check the grounds. All of my connections are crimped, soldered and waterproofed with heat shrink tubing. I went through them all, then added ground blocks to each region of the chassis, with the blocks connected back to the battery. Still having problems. I them took apart each section of the turn signal circuit and tested with a meter, then made a test light circuit to check each segment of the circuit. Ends up I have a bad button in the right turn signal on the steering wheel aspect of the Raptor. This is a sealed unit, so I need to get in contact with them.

You can email the owner of the company directly:
[email protected]
They will fix it without charge and ship it back.
 
When I started to work on the sound system, Scott Rowland, who is very knowledgeable on many thing, but especially on audio, talked about speaker position and he suggested avoiding the doors and using kick spaces, if they are available. That have a more stable, solid surface to mount on and you can get the speak aimed directly at the listener. In my case, the kick space was perfect. Out of the way for entry and exit and aimed right at the occupants. The subwoofer fills the space with sound and is non-direction, so the location is less critical. In my car it is mounted behind the passenger seat. The tweeters are very directional, so they will be mounted on the dash in their own pods.
 
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