Bill's CAV #193 Build - Canadian Made

Bill Kearley

Supporter
Another good day. Body fits pretty dam good when seen at 200 plus. Power coating done, will pick up Friday. Other half away for the weekend, I see progress coming on. The only fiberglass that needs attention is the R/F door or front clip, one or the other. Still debating what to do about #7 exhaust pipe, all most touching.
 

Attachments

  • GOPR0560.JPG
    GOPR0560.JPG
    353 KB · Views: 757
  • GOPR0564.JPG
    GOPR0564.JPG
    314.6 KB · Views: 739
  • GOPR0566.JPG
    GOPR0566.JPG
    228.6 KB · Views: 632
  • GOPR0565.JPG
    GOPR0565.JPG
    521.9 KB · Views: 695
Very nice looking car Bill. Regarding #7, I too faced this same issue on my CAV. An option (I hope its still available) might come from none other then Holman Moody. I recall them offering a "Heat Shield" that might help you. http://www.holmanmoody.com/Heat.html

The problem might exasperate your issue though in that it will take up more space that might not exist.
 
Throttle cable in and adjusted, took a bit of work to get right. Not much of a pedal assembly to work with. I'm ready to bleed the clutch and brakes, fuel lines in and ready to load the coolant, ( just water for the first test run ) Most of the day was spent on the rear clam. After a lot time trying to fit things up with the fire wall that is a way out of square, out came the tape measure only to find out the entire clam is all over the map and may not fit with out a lot of body work. not much fun after I payed Gulf Oil a fee to have a 1075 certificate on top of the cost of the paint job. I said lets not get to excited untill I fit the rear clam to the spider. The rear clam is bad but it may marry up to the also twisted spider. O ya I love where I live. I got a call, my CV joint bolts from ARP made it to Mopac Calgary Alberta today but for me to get my hands on them the freight is almost as much the bolts.
You should of called your brother!!!!!!
 

Bill Kearley

Supporter
Can any one help me re bubble strip. The packaging scraps I got from CAV are softer and work nice. The new stuff I got from Mc Master Carr fits nice but the bubble is to firm.
 

Bill Kearley

Supporter
Up date time, not a bad few days. Played with the body for another day, rotate the entire body clockwise, looked at from above, to help open the gap at the front of the passenger door. Got it a bit better. worked the front edge of dash to fit the profile under spider, fit and drill for nutserts in cowl cover to mount the spider. I have about a 7/8 air gap under dash to cowl cover so a bit of foam tape creates a plenum to direct defrost air. Got a start on a dash pad, waiting for glue and padding. Angle the speedo with 3 inch ABS sewer pipe, man that worked nice. Did the same idea with aluminum to hold the wiper motor in place. Still needs a torque arm just in case I have to turn it on. Not sure it was necessary but I now have SFI certified door straps. In between, that white stuff fell from the sky and made me change tires and help the boss in the house with electrics so I could get fed.
 

Attachments

  • GOPR0528.JPG
    GOPR0528.JPG
    296.7 KB · Views: 664
  • GOPR0582.JPG
    GOPR0582.JPG
    468.4 KB · Views: 614
  • GOPR0521.JPG
    GOPR0521.JPG
    318.7 KB · Views: 528
  • GOPR0589.JPG
    GOPR0589.JPG
    436.7 KB · Views: 602
  • GOPR0590.JPG
    GOPR0590.JPG
    271.6 KB · Views: 612
  • GOPR0584.JPG
    GOPR0584.JPG
    246.5 KB · Views: 537
  • GOPR0577.JPG
    GOPR0577.JPG
    519.7 KB · Views: 575
  • GOPR0575.JPG
    GOPR0575.JPG
    357 KB · Views: 686

Larry L.

Lifetime Supporter
'Word of caution, if I may, Bill. You r-e-a-l-l-y need a much taller ladder when decorating that tree....either that or you need a shorter tree! 'Waaaaay too risky 'leaning over' to do this-or-that while standing anywhere near the top of the ladder you're using in that photo...even if someone is holding the ladder while you're up there.

Don't ask me how I know...


81324-607b865c35e43519b938058f4a4e8fa4.jpg

GOPR0575.JPG
 

Bill Kearley

Supporter
Hope it didn't hurt Larry, I'm not trying to be funny. I'm on borrowed time with the chances I take, thanks. All the best.
 

Bill Kearley

Supporter
A little help needed, The side rails are full of coolant lines and wire, and I have no room to run AC lines to the forward. Short of building a taller center tunnel I'm out of ideas. No. 7 exhaust pipe is touching the clam and I was going to get into some fiberglass work till WALT suggested using a hood scoop of sorts that fits under the window, thanks Walt. some fiberglass will get cut out for other reasons as well. The opening around the injectors is an inch of center. Do I open things up or just allow for the exhaust clearance?
 

Attachments

  • GOPR0568.JPG
    GOPR0568.JPG
    301.6 KB · Views: 614
  • GOPR0526.JPG
    GOPR0526.JPG
    351.7 KB · Views: 575
  • GOPR0574.JPG
    GOPR0574.JPG
    312.9 KB · Views: 502

Rick Merz

Lifetime Supporter
I had the same problem as you... I went the fiberglass route and it looks good but I may make it full width to eliminate the small radius's on both sides.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2133 1335.jpg
    IMG_2133 1335.jpg
    368.3 KB · Views: 565
  • IMG_2135 1335.jpg
    IMG_2135 1335.jpg
    364.4 KB · Views: 547
  • IMG_2129 2028.jpg
    IMG_2129 2028.jpg
    376.2 KB · Views: 509
  • IMG_2144 2028.jpg
    IMG_2144 2028.jpg
    255.1 KB · Views: 592

Rick Muck- Mark IV

GT40s Sponsor
Supporter
Bill,

I thought CAV put the condenser in the rear on the left side feed by the scoop? All the pictures I have seen show all that so you would only need room for the lines to the evaporator up front.
 

Bill Kearley

Supporter
Hi Rick. I just built all the parts to mount the condenser and rad using my own ideas. The dryer is already mounted up front and a short line to the evaporator made. I didn't think of placing the condenser any where else. Would it be cool enough in the rear? It would be a lot of work to change. I think I'll be making my own tunnel to fit the lines.. Three inch abs sewer pipe worked out well for an angle bezel since I couldn't find one for a 3 3/8" gauge.
 

Attachments

  • GOPR0548.JPG
    GOPR0548.JPG
    431.7 KB · Views: 549
  • GOPR0605.JPG
    GOPR0605.JPG
    385.2 KB · Views: 504
  • GOPR0606.JPG
    GOPR0606.JPG
    360.1 KB · Views: 546
  • GOPR0602.JPG
    GOPR0602.JPG
    447.8 KB · Views: 460
  • GOPR0598.JPG
    GOPR0598.JPG
    326.5 KB · Views: 564
  • GOPR0603.JPG
    GOPR0603.JPG
    307 KB · Views: 533
  • GOPR0506.JPG
    GOPR0506.JPG
    390.5 KB · Views: 539

Bill Kearley

Supporter
Door latches installed and outside release. I want to use something other than the typical, that's me. A plan to use a cable from new latch linkage i made will enter the door pocket to a lever. It's probably been done and i'm wanting it to look nice, any on have pics of what they have done?
 

Neil

Supporter
On the inside of my driver's side door I used a Southco latch handle.
 

Attachments

  • Inside Door Handle.jpg
    Inside Door Handle.jpg
    411.6 KB · Views: 486

Joel K

Supporter
Bill, the build looks great and love the Blue and Orange livery. if it is not too much trouble, wondering how far from the front fire wall you power brake booster and master cylinder come out.
 

Bill Kearley

Supporter
Joel, 11 inches will give you room. The tape shows about 10 3/4 in. about 272 mm. I just looked at the pic, It's quite distorted. Keep in mind, you will want to slide the master forward in order to re and re. The parts I used are early 80s Volkswagen Vanagon parts.
 

Attachments

  • GOPR0611.JPG
    GOPR0611.JPG
    303.1 KB · Views: 500

Bill Kearley

Supporter
Thanks Neil, that's a nice looking handle. It could be used for other aps. as well,like pulling from two sides into center. ( rear clam release ? )
 

Bill Kearley

Supporter
A lot of time and looking at the same problem on other builds. The fuel filler pipe! I think I will have to modify the fuel cap assemblies to accept a smaller diameter pipe to gain room for the first turn rearward R and down to the neck on the tanks. Two inch cam-lok welded into the id of the cap asy. Then I will have to find a 2 in. tube/pipe that is fuel friendly with a 5 1/4 inch offset, I'd like to have one clamp at the top and one at the bottom only. Constructive help welcome, Ugly but it gave me the numbers. But of course to get it right I had to use R/H spinner on the left and L/H on the right, I know Walt understands me.
 

Attachments

  • GOPR0609.JPG
    GOPR0609.JPG
    275.8 KB · Views: 527
  • GOPR0610.JPG
    GOPR0610.JPG
    329.3 KB · Views: 488
Last edited:

Joel K

Supporter
Joel, 11 inches will give you room. The tape shows about 10 3/4 in. about 272 mm. I just looked at the pic, It's quite distorted. Keep in mind, you will want to slide the master forward in order to re and re. The parts I used are early 80s Volkswagen Vanagon parts.

Thanks Bill, appreciate the information.
 
Back
Top