Southern GT Chassis #54 Build - The What Have I Done Chronicles!!

www.thinkauto.com should be able to help with oil plumbing needs.

Cheers buddy

Perhaps here

Helpful bunch!

ian

Ok been a while and had the camera in the workshop tonight taking some photos of loom plugs so i van have some made up so...



Had to move the coil pack, originally on the passenger side but it was in the way of the ECU loom, probably better on the driver side as closer to the ignition pack, live and learn.



Needed quite a few more supplies so added an extra fuse board behind the driver seat, made of of fused permanent lives and switched lives, want to keep the number of un-fused permanent lives to a minimum and needed one here to power the ignition pack.



Front of engine now quite busy, lots of sensors, still have to do the dizzy trigger, had to swap my dizzy for a special order dual trigger one as did not want to fit a crank sensor now. Lots of plugs, leads and cables nut mainly sorted now.



Made up a new throttle linkage bracket and assembly, the one from Jenvey was pretty hopeless but managed to scrump a few parts from it and make one that seems to work well, had to change the pedal end as well as had the bracket too close to the pedal but getting good spring response and also full movement now.



Oil cooler now fitted with sandwich plate also in.



Always hated the handbrake just looked so kit car so got one of these, did not quite fit the lugs but managed to drill a new locating hole, much smarter I think and less obtrusive, also meant though had to move the brake balance bar back, I think it was wrong from day one so never had full adjustment.



Used a small pipe clamp on the handbrake rod to actuate the switch again adjustable and seems to work well.

so that's it for now, getting my dash back Friday so will send an update once thats fitted, then hopefully not too far away from firing it up but could be a bit of trouble shooting as the wiring has proved a challenge, fun but a challenge

Cheers

Hi Shaun, just curious about your engine loom. I see some real professional materials were used to build and protect that loom. (Reychem DR25 sheathing for example). Did you build it yourself, or was it supplied.. in that case by who?

Hi Jasper, got it from Mick at SGT it was made by this Tim aka http://www.autosportelectronics.co.uk/
Its a well made loom, some of the leads are too short which is a bit irritating but as you say well made.

Dash populated now got to wire the bugger up!!

Hi Shaun,
i hope you don't mind helping a fellow builder out (doing from scratch, but using SGT hinges and body)
i would REALLY appreciate help with the measurements i have marked with red in your image, is it possible for you to measure them for me? (Metric measures please)

A and B measures, and sheetsize and hole placement would really be appreciated.

Of course leave that with me will sort today!!

Hi Shaun, i'm just noticing in your build thread, that you chose to not work with a crank angle sensor, rather a dual cam sensor.
Any specific reason why, was it complication of installation of such a trigger wheel etc?
Accuracy of timing (ignition and fuel) is quite a lot better with a crank sensor typically.

I forgot to fit one and they are a bit of a bugger to fit after the engine is in!!! The dual trigger is a neat option, special order mind you, interesting about accuracy though was not aware there was much different but I guess the gear mesh may have an effect. Will know son when I start !!!!

Yeah basically its the amount of teeth available for the sensor to pick up, its a lot more on a crank trigger wheel. So with a (typical) 36-1 wheel, every tooth is 10deg of crank rotation. if you only have 16 teeth on a cam sensor, and the 2x slower rotation of a cam, you only have a 45deg crank rotation accuracy. Lots of room for 'interpolation' and transient condition inaccuracy. (heavy acceleration or deceleration).

I recently installed (with the motor still in the car) a crank trigger. Wasn't too difficult actually (CAV GT40) as long as your seats are out and you can open the bulkhead. Let me know if you want me to share some pictures etc.

Hi
good point, I had a single trigger dizzy i then sold for a bit of a loss loss to get this one, could you send some pictures it is not too late in terms of seat and bulkhead
Cheers

Oh yeah, and another measure that would help alot would be how far apart the mounting surface sheets are.
(i have guessed 1460mm on the outer side where the doorhinges mount onto)

Hi Shaun,
I did a retro-fit of a crank senor (Magnetti Marelli sensor as part of an Emerald ECU upgrade) on a SGT with no major issues. There's enough room to get the TV damper off in situ and the sensor brkt used a couple of the front cover mounting holes
Regards,
Andy
Andy

Cheers Andy that may well be an option!! I had heard it was aright ball ache to put it on maybe then not so, thanks

So bit of an update, not much to report, filled with water and sprung a leak, of course its the clip right at the front as the tubes come out the tunnel, so drain it down I will, its sort of doing that for me in a bucket at present!!!
Had Geoff over today to help with the setup, I had about as much chance of sorting that as winning the lottery, just a learning curve really but we got a fair way until we found the brand new Jenvey TPS is defective, China tat again I guess, only worked if you leaned the screwdriver slightly when you turned it, send that back for sure. Must have a duff track pointer.
Few more bits to sort then maybe just maybe she will run!!!!
Then body fit will be after some tips for that
Cheers

Shaun, please save yourself this problem in the future. Buy a contactless TPS (hall/magnetic effect). You've got a great supplier in the UK called Variohm. In fact, the contactless that Jenvey sells, is actually the Variohm XPD sensor. As your TPS is the most critical sensor in any ITB EFI setup, it pays to have that as accurate and reliable as you can get. Buy one that has a 100degree measurement range, to give you the best TPS resolution with the lowest noise (voltage fluctuation results in smallest throttle opening deviation in the ECU)
I'm trying to find my pictures for my teeth wheel, but it looks very very similar to what Andy has shown you.

Hi Jasper, that did cross my mind, I think I may punch for one of those and get Jenvey to refund on this one, if this is broken when new they are probably all tat, I will have a dig around, cheers

I think its this one https://www.variohm.com/products/mo...ition-sensors-for-motorsport/euro-xpd-d-shaft