Chuck's Jaguar D Type Build

IanAnderson · Jan 22, 2021

1) Always remove church key before starting the machine, if not it will A) fling itself across the workshop and damage something or someone, B) trash itself on the rest of the machine C) trash the bed of the machine (I have seen all 3)
wear tight fitting sleeves a friend had his arm pulled into the cutting tool when it caught his overalls sleeve.

ian

Mic · Jan 22, 2021

I second absolutly Ian !!!!!!! be very very very carefull at beginning to use those
Lathe and Mill can be a pleasure to use but a disaster if you are not aware of all those small tricks to avoid very bad and dangerous situation
Yo need to consider those machines same way you consider your electric saw disc !!!!
Remember too ; do not think to be able to machine "threads " after only few practice , it is one of the most difficult and dangerous process yo u
will have to learn ( lot of gears set up , tooling prep and set up etc etc )
Do not think to succeed immediatly in doing tight tolerances ( bearing housing or watever shaft outside tolerance ) ; limit your use for some monthes in doing busches, spacers and easy parts
Those advises are only for you not to be disapointed with the first results and also doing simple parts you will be alwways concentrated into"security"
Your hands , your eyes are more important than trying to machine a long complicated part to save money in stade to have it done by aworkshop

Machining is like Tig welding ; few by few you will learn more and more and get skilled

weisserheilbronn · Jan 22, 2021

IanAnderson said:
1) Always remove church key before starting the machine, if not it will A) fling itself across the workshop and damage something or someone, B) trash itself on the rest of the machine C) trash the bed of the machine (I have seen all 3)
wear tight fitting sleeves a friend had his arm pulled into the cutting tool when it caught his overalls sleeve.

ian

I agree to this.....
During my 3 year apprenticeship we used to have frequent chuck wrench wide throwing contests until that one day..... when the perfectly accelerated chuck wrench flew off the lathe in the perfect angle and left the building through the closed window only to land directly in front of our trainer on his way back to the training center.....

After we caught hell we did not have another contest........

A good solution is to use a spring loaded chuck wrench like this

TMX Lathe Chuck Wrench Key for 10" & 12" Scroll Chucks 3-889-012P

www.smalltools.com

ckouba · Jan 22, 2021

Can't agree more with all the above, especially about the chuck key. Epoxy a magnet somewhere safe and make sure it's either there or in your hand at all times, just like I do.

Whoops...

That's actually something I've always meant to do. Maybe typing this will make me actually do it now. I can neither confirm nor deny that a chuck key may have flung across the shop at some point. The spring loaded chuck looks pretty idiot-proof too.

Jkviper · Jan 22, 2021

I have the mini mill from harbor freight and just jumped right in milling small aluminum parts For RC cars. For what we do I would recommend something more powerful and sturdier, but it’s surprising what you can do with one of these machines.

Turned out it has been invaluable on my SLC build. It’s the part of the build I enjoy most. Designing and milling parts. It takes a while to get the hang of it. The best advice is to just practice on simple parts. I like to mill aluminum with a 4 flute 1/4” mill at 1000 RPMs and use cutting fluid. Take very little off at a time and you will get the hang of it.

narkosys · Jan 23, 2021

CESLAW said:
Question: are there any good basic references for getting started with a mill / lathe? Perhaps a 'Milling for Dummies' sort of book? Looking for some basic guidance such as RPMs used with different material, blade / bit set up, and the like. Not too technical. I have watched a ton of videos, but a paper reference would be nice. Michel's good suggestions above are the sort of basics I hope to explore.

A good book to refer to is the Machinists' Ready Reference. that is what I was using when I was a machinist back in the 80s, when we still had to do things by hand. I have the 2nd or 3rd edition, They are up to at lest the Tenth. It has all the numbers and calculations you will need on your venture.

Here is the Amazon link. Check around as I am sure it can be found for much less elsewhere.

CESLAW · Jan 24, 2021

narkosys said:
A good book to refer to is the Machinists' Ready Reference. that is what I was using when I was a machinist back in the 80s, when we still had to do things by hand. I have the 2nd or 3rd edition, They are up to at lest the Tenth. It has all the numbers and calculations you will need on your venture.

Here is the Amazon link. Check around as I am sure it can be found for much less elsewhere.

Thanks for the tip. That looks like a rather detailed reference source.

CESLAW · Jan 24, 2021

Rear Sub Frame, Part IV

It has been more than a year since this topic was discussed. When we last posted we noted that “the aft end of the secondary frame / fuel tank supports will be connected to the rear brackets inside the boot area.” That is the job we have now tackled.

The length of the rear supports was determined with the body set in place and then two supports fabricated with the same materials used on the other parts, except ½” rather than 5/8” heim joints were used.

Understanding how it goes together is clearer without the body in place. The body will be sandwiched between the two plates visible in this picture.

For the present time a single bolt holds the two plates together. When the body work is started, the plates will be held with four 5/16” bolts to more closely match the original and the single bolt seen in the pictures will not be used.

The external pieces were primed, painted with Eastwood Aluma Blast, and installed. When in place the height can be adjusted with the two inside tubes. The length of the frame can be adjusted fore and aft at the forward Heim joint connection to the tub. The position of the body can be tuned with these adjustments. It is amazing how much more sturdy the rear clip becomes with this sub frame in place.

CESLAW · Feb 1, 2021

Side Pipes and Body Revisited

A couple of months ago the construction of the side pipes was posted. Before that we lengthened the upper control arm Heims to address the excess camber. At the time these projects were done, the body was not in place. We recently did just that to see if the side pipes lined up and the front wheels had adequate turning clearance. The wheels have good clearance and the pipes location will work well.

This was another opportunity to revisit the overall proportions and consider possible revisions to the fiberglass. For example, I have mixed feelings about the height of the nose. It may be just a bit too high. With a bit of fiberglass work the nose could be lowered, still leaving clearance for the engine. I am wondering if anyone has any comments?

I am generally satisfied with the ride height and the overall way the body is setting but welcome any comments one how it might be improved.

manta22 · Feb 1, 2021

Lowering the nose would be beneficial in reducing front end aerodynamic lift.

andrewrobertson · Feb 1, 2021

Difficult to judge using photos shot near to the ground. A shot from head height would include all the great compound curves on the top of the front end. Looks super-cool.

lkishel@wmjdonovan.com · Feb 2, 2021

Chuck looking good I agree maybe a little drop in the front to level off the stance but other than that great workmanship on this build and thanks for sharing your step by step process

CESLAW · Feb 2, 2021

andrewrobertson said:
Difficult to judge using photos shot near to the ground. A shot from head height would include all the great compound curves on the top of the front end. Looks super-cool.

Good point. I will see if I have some higher angle shots.

Chet Zerlin · Feb 2, 2021

Chuck,
It may just be the way it was photographed, but it looks to me like there is a little too much space between the front tire and the front fender.(?) Pics of original D-Types show a much tighter radius in that area. Of course that space might be necessary for clearance of the tire when turning...or it might just be the way that the unfinished aluminum shows up in front of the tire. Regardless a beautiful build! And I continue to be jealous

CESLAW · Feb 2, 2021

Chet:

Thanks for the comment. Closing up the front end so the daylight disappears will help. Also the front wheels on the original were set in significantly - far different than modern cars. Indeed the set back was greater than shown in the photos on my RCR even after I shortened the control arms. But unless you look at it from a near nose on angle the set back is not that apparent, which your photo of the short nose illustrates. Whether the fore and aft size of the opening can be closed a bit is a good point. I may look into closing that radius per your suggestion. Thanks.

ckouba · Feb 2, 2021

I would snap a pic from the same aspect as Chet's and see what it looks like when you compare them. I would be willing to bet it's the angle at which the photo was taken which exaggerates the size of the hole vs size of the tire. I actually think yours looks pretty good Chuck- and I'd bet no two cars were built the same back then anyway. Make it your own!

I will say, I'd give the D an "A" in both blue or red. They look fabulous!

PS - Did you get your mill and lathe yet?

CESLAW · Feb 2, 2021

Perhaps this is a better view for assessing the situation?

CESLAW · Feb 2, 2021

ckouba said:
PS - Did you get your mill and lathe yet?

Its in the works. Hope to report shortly.

lkishel@wmjdonovan.com · Feb 3, 2021

Chuck now with that picture it looks really well in the stance so I guess it’s all in the angles

Chet Zerlin · Feb 3, 2021

Agreed. In the words of Emily Litella....Never mind!

Chet

Chuck's Jaguar D Type Build

Ian Anderson

Michel

Markus

SPRF40

TMX Lathe Chuck Wrench Key for 10" & 12" Scroll Chucks 3-889-012P

Chris Kouba

Joel K

Pierre

Chuck

Chuck

Chuck

Neil

Andrew Robertson

Larry J Kishel

Chuck

Chet Zerlin

Chuck

Chris Kouba

Chuck

Chuck

Larry J Kishel

Chet Zerlin

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