Shop tools

I've seen everyone's builds, and some of you've got some impressive shops hiding in the background of those build photos. After looking at so many of them I'd like to know what is essential to get the car right - the minimum. The RCR site says with basic tools, but I think most of us are well beyond being satisfied with just a basic car. TIG welder? Band saw? Drill press? Tools you use again and again and were worth the cost - IOW did your own welding instead of spending time and money waiting for a welding shop to do the work for you.
 

Kyle

Supporter
tig/mig, portable bandsaw on stand, palm sander. I don’t have a drill press, however one would be nice. Bench grinder would be nice, but I always just end up using a grinder. I had someone weld up my tank. I did all of my exhaust, which is evident when you see the welds. But it’s all sort of short term until I can improve my tig welding. My building is definitely not the model build, but my focus is getting on the road. I can fix and refine things later. I eventually plan on dropping in a 6.2l with twin turbos. Which is precisely why I haven’t put a lot of focus into long term work.

My philosophy is get on the road quickly and enjoy it, I can add and improve later which is also part of the fun. Some others are building gorgeous builds, but it’s taking years.

Scott’s build is extraordinary and I only wish I could replicate that quality. But the skill and tools are beyond my scope. Allans builds are exceptional as well, but of course he’s modeled a side business on it so he needs the good tools and space.
 
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You need to tell us how big your shop is, Jeff!
Lol, everyone knows that there's no such thing as "big enough" when it comes to shop space. I have a spare one-car slot and extra room around it. Thankfully the SL-C is a small-ish car.
 
tig/mig, portable bandsaw on stand, palm sander. I don’t have a drill press, however one would be nice.

.... can fix and refine things later. I eventually plan on dropping in a 6.2l with twin turbos. Which is precisely why I haven’t put a lot of focus into long term work.

My philosophy is get on the road quickly and enjoy it, I can add and improve later which is also part of the fun. Some others are building gorgeous builds, but it’s taking years.

Kinda figured the tig, bandsaw, and press were pretty high on most lists. Most builds I've seen people are welding/forming aluminum parts, and the drill press would help eliminate wonky holes.

Fix things later? Lol, there is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix! Twin turbos sounds (literally and figuratively) amazing. I'm sure I'll make many temporary fixes that end up long-term, but I hope to be in the slow lane taking years to build something.
 
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Sometimes its the little tools not the big ones that make all the difference. Again it depends on the need of the car. Flaring Tools, Tube Benders (1/4-1/2"), Rivet Tools, Taps, A full drill set, impact (battery/air), Multiple angle grinders (1 cutoff, 1 flap disc), air tools (die grinders, blow gun, belt sander, air saw), Oscillating tool, Good squares (sizes), Good calipers, scribes, marking die, Straight edges, Cleco's, deburing tools, digital angle finder, laser.

Big tools I use alot...Huge compressor, Drill Press, TIG, Belt/Circular Sander, horizantal/vertical band saw, car lift. Big tools I use less but glad I have: metal lathe, Bending brake, plasma cutter, engine hoist, engine stand.

Wish I had: Mill, Press, Finger brake, Mig. Body Buck!!!!!

Electrical and Air drops from the ceiling...love them. Tons of outlets on the wall. Organized Storage.
 
I also have a huge air compressor. I used to use it all the time, but with the new lithium battery power tools, including impact gun, I really don't use it much anymore.
 
Not sure why this is in the Superlight section, probably applies to most builds on here.

Good organization I would say is key. I have recently added two rows of magnetic strips to the inside of the tool chest lid. its been great for keeping track of those go too tools that your always swapping between. Say the 1/8" drill bit, the various quick connect drill drivers, small engineers square, knife, scribe, pin punch ect. The strips are like the magnetic knife strips you see in a kitchen. I got them from the hardware store for about $15, they are 600mm long each (23").

putting like tools with like tools.
so storing sanding stuff with the sanders.
grinding discs with the grinders
now have all my drills bits in the one draw. Was surprised how many I had that were spread out across the workshop.
I have just bought a second air compressor purely for the capacity. So i now have 2 x 50L tanks ( 2 x 13 gallons). Each compressor is around the 12 CFM free air delivery. So if I am only doing a small job or general work around the shop I will just fire up one of them. If I am running the sand blaster or an air tool that uses lots of volume I can run both.
A good Linisher and a 12"+ disc sander would be handy I think. Mine are just wood working version and dont spin as fast as a result they are not that great on steel.

recent purchases have been a small right angle pneumatic grinder with the roll-lock discs in 50mm and 75mm sizes with a number of grits. easy to change pads, small head with good control and variable speed.
The other recent one has been a belt finger sander, how did I not have both of these earlier.
Will be interesting to see what the next tool is that I say that about.
 

Steven Lobel

Supporter
Essential:

2 angle grinders
Tap and die
Drill/impact combo with extra batteries
1/2, 3/8, 1/4 socket sets in metric/SAE-and extensions for all
Wrench sets in SAE/metric (both open and racheting)
Full screwdriver set
Drill punch
Good flaring tool for brake/clutch lines
Deburring tool
Shop scissors
Box cutter
Full pliers set
Magnetic pickup tool
Lights, lights, lights
Vise-bigger the better

Nice to have:
QST compressor from Eastwood
Bendpak lift
Drill press
Bench grinder
 
Also a little more on shop setup/compressors. I drain A LOT of water from my system and I'm glad I setup the way I did. I get like a half gallon in a week if I'm using a lot of air, and I'm in CA. The copper cooling manifold works great and I get little to no water by the time its gets to the Regulator/filter. My system goes from 3/4" proair to 1/2" hoses with high flow fittings. It took a day to do (minus accumulating things).

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If you can come up with a way to lift the spider it will be super helpful, I did it by modifying a harbor freight game hoist (as in deer) that way you can lift and replace the body with one person when you are doing fittings and so on.

Nice taps are a MUST, I went through several cheap ones from Lowes, now that I have a nice set is night and day !! not to mention trying to remove a broken tap on a hole you must have and can't reposition, I have never cussed so much LOL!! my new taps slide like butter , minimal tension , I don't see me dealing with a broken tap ever again.

A very nice drill is a must , an angle drill attachment for tight spaces is also a must.

I am doing in in a single garage bay, doable but way suboptimal, I don't have a bench grinder or band saw, both would have saved me a ton of time .I do have a cheap portable drill press, which does just fine , but I have to move it in and out of my bench, not ideal.

I have a cheap tig welder, unless you need a very precise weld such as the cage, for building brackets and such is good enough, I was able to weld the O2 sensor plugs and modify the shifter brackets with decent results. I probably would not feel comfortable welding on the cage or installing a muffler without leaks.

I have two nice crimping tools one for large wires such as the 0/1 awg for the starter and alternator , and one for the smaller wires. In my mind that is a must to achieve good results and reliable connections

If you plan to do your own a/c lines I would definitely get a a/c line crimping tool.

It can be done with minimal space and minimal tools , however it takes longer and the results are not amazing like Scott's build, which is impressive, but I think you can build a solid , reliable car just not as nice.

A space to work on fiberglass with good ventilation is also very helpful and you need a good 3M mask with filters. and basic fiberglass tools,

Think about alignment, I copied Howard's tool and also have a digital one that attaches to the wheel , and do the alignment at the same time you are reassembling the suspension parts, which will help with the body fitment.

The main question is what level of refinement you want, that will determine the sophistication of your tool list.

A small CNC machine and lathe would be super sweet to make pretty parts but not necessary, lots of people are making very nice 3d printed plastic parts, something to consider . Scott made very nice mounting brackets for the radiator and condenser.

Hope this is helpful
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
Bang for your buck.

Make some of these wheel roll arounds
and get a disk sander and a sawzall and one of these low-profile jacks. This jack is the only jack that is less than 3 inch ground clearance (2 3/4). There are many sellers under their own name but they are all the same:


Otherwise, I really like a chain hoist to pull powertrains instead of an engine hoist as well as a bespoke table to work on said powertrain instead of on the floor. Make a transaxle mounting gig like mine now instead of later. Use harbor freight for use once things (except tubing flare tools) and buy quality tools that you intend to use for your lifetime.
 

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Also a little more on shop setup/compressors. I drain A LOT of water from my system and I'm glad I setup the way I did. I get like a half gallon in a week if I'm using a lot of air, and I'm in CA. The copper cooling manifold works great and I get little to no water by the time its gets to the Regulator/filter. My system goes from 3/4" proair to 1/2" hoses with high flow fittings. It took a day to do (minus accumulating things).



View attachment 116011

is that cooling manifold just soldered together with plumbing fittings?
 

Steven Lobel

Supporter
Also a little more on shop setup/compressors. I drain A LOT of water from my system and I'm glad I setup the way I did. I get like a half gallon in a week if I'm using a lot of air, and I'm in CA. The copper cooling manifold works great and I get little to no water by the time its gets to the Regulator/filter. My system goes from 3/4" proair to 1/2" hoses with high flow fittings. It took a day to do (minus accumulating things).

View attachment 116010

View attachment 116011
Question: What is PSI rating of copper pipe soldered? Love the idea.
 
Question: What is PSI rating of copper pipe soldered? Love the idea.
Probably safe to 200 psi. There's a good number of variables there, so don't quote me on that. You would want to look at the copper and fitting properties in an annealed state though, as well as the quality of your soldering job. Lot's of debate on the "proper" way...I heat from the bottom rotating heat around the bottom 60% of the pipe fitting and apply solder from the top. I bend the solder at @ 3/4" for 3/4" tube to give me an indication of about how much to apply.
 
Ok, quick runthrough of the list nets the most popular items, in order:

Drill press is the most popular item.

Next items, all equally popular:

TIG Welder
Angle grinders
Air compressor
Pedestal belt, disc, and handheld sanders
Some sort of recip saw like a Sawzall
Quality tap set

I didn't go through and include all the basic hand tools or single-use tools like socket sets or A/C hose crimpers. Hopefully everyone has good basic tools, and single-use tools can be bought used and re-sold when done. There were several nice-to-haves like lathes, mills, sheet metal brakes, but unless someone's going to continue to use those items after the car is done it's probably too large of a $ and space investment.
 
I cut metal plate and tubing for years with a metal chop saw. Just recently mounted my portable band saw to my welding table, chop saw gets very little use now. Much more precise cuts, much less heat, no longer shooting steel particles around the shop. Much better experience.
 
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