Ken Roberts
Supporter
Have you given any thought to the fuel filler Joel? I’m not sure the Sparco fuel filler would pass a strict emission requirement.
Have you given any thought to the fuel filler Joel? I’m not sure the Sparco fuel filler would pass a strict emission requirement.
Joel,Hey Ken, I was reviewing your thread recently since another builder in NJ said they will check the fuel cap. Was thinking of applying your idea of installing an OEM fuel neck behind the Sparco cap. I would like to use the C7 Cap-less fuel neck, but not sure there is enough room.
Here is a comparison between the two. The SL-C version is on the right.
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Looking good Joel, any plans on traction control? I can’t remember.
Joel. My throttle body is positioned close to the same place you have yours. I plan to run my intake tube out and down just past the first rectangular tube. Then use the space most people have their fuel filters and swirl tank as my air box with filter. Trap door on the bottom to change/clean the filter.
Joel & Roger - No idea if this is possible but after seeing Tavarish (on Youtube) add the air intake be the roof scoop to his McLaren build. It also reminded me of the Ultima RS that uses the roof scoop air to also push fresh air into the air intake. I imagine this would mean having a wider but flatter "hose" that would grab a portion of the scoop and bring in down along the firewall. Tavarish hid some of his inside the cabin but put interior over it and it looked OEM when finished. Just a ThoughtRoger, that is a very good plan.Your TB is at a much better angle than mine to do that. Unless I re-design the intake elbow I may have to stick with the approach in the last pic. I ordered some 4” intake mandrel bends to see how things will actually line up.
Joel & Roger - No idea if this is possible but after seeing Tavarish (on Youtube) add the air intake be the roof scoop to his McLaren build. It also reminded me of the Ultima RS that uses the roof scoop air to also push fresh air into the air intake. I imagine this would mean having a wider but flatter "hose" that would grab a portion of the scoop and bring in down along the firewall. Tavarish hid some of his inside the cabin but put interior over it and it looked OEM when finished. Just a Thought
This post is more of a product review than a build update. I thought other builders may want to look at the Racetronix product line of aluminum tanks. Lot’s of choices and ways to configure these tanks. This post covers the config for the expansion, recovery, and intercooler tanks.
Here is a video on the tanks and how you can configure them…
The prior post covered mocking up the rear compartment and the initial layout where all the main components will go. I originally thought to go with the 1.5 quart Moroso round expansion tank mounted on the firewall and a rectangular recovery tank like the 2 quart Canton, Summit Racing, or a generic plastic tank. And for the intercooler tank I’d go with modifying a 4” or 6” round spun aluminum fuel tank made by Sandstorm. Except for the recovery tank, I’d have to weld in some additional bungs and sight glasses. So a bit of work, but not too bad.
I ordered and received the Moroso tank, it looked great placed up on the firewall. The main issue was the side bung interfered with the roll cage down pipe…
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So started looking for alternatives and saw the tank Stephan is using from a company based in Canada called Racetronix. They have quite a large portfolio of products. Because their tanks are so versatile I ordered all three tanks from them.
Going to use a 1 Liter for the expansion tank and a 2 Liter for both the recovery and intercooler tanks. I ordered black anodized, but they also come in natural aluminum and red anodized.
They have a lot of nice features. The first being each tank has 9 bungs. 2 top and 2 bottom on each side and one on the bottom which makes these tanks versatile. They are ORB O-ring fittings and come with anodized plugs. Pic of the tank sides…
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They also have a really nice sight glass integrated into each of the units with a replaceable seal…
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The cap comes with a sintered brass insert which can be replaced with a plug to make it non vented…
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Another nice feature is an adapter to add a radiator cap. The cap mechanism is indented so you can clock the overflow fitting at 16 different positions….
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Here is the configuration for the expansion tank:
1)16 psi radiator cap
2)Radiator neck outlet 1/4” barb fitting facing right
3)Radium 6AN ORB to 8.5 mm barb fitting on top left for the radiator bleed line
4)Radium 8AN ORB to 8.5 mm barb fitting on top left for the engine steam line
5)10AN ORB to 10AN barb fitting on the bottom to connect to the 5/8” heater return hose
Pic of the configured expansion tank…
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Here is the configuration for the recovery tank:
1)Using the supplied vented cap
2)Radium 6AN ORB to 8.5 mm barb banjo fitting on the bottom connects to the expansion tank radiator cap neck 1/4” barb fitting
3)8AN ORB to 4AN barb fitting on top left feeds 1/4” overflow tube
Pic of the configured recovery tank…
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Last is the intercooler tank, here is the configuration:
1)13 psi radiator cap
2)Radiator neck outlet 1/4” barb fitting facing right
3)10AN fitting on top right feeds the tank with 5/8” heater hose.
4)Miezere 12AN to 5/8” hose barb fitting on the bottom feeds the intercooler pump.
5)Radium 8AN to 1/4 NPT fitting on lower left for a temp sensor
On the stock LT4, the intercooler tank setup is a closed system with no pressure cap. This is because the fluid doesn’t reach a high enough pressure to require one. But just to be safe and prevent damage to the intercooler radiators will use a 13 psi radiator cap.
Pic of the intercooler tank..,
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Expansion tank seems to fit in the area on the rear firewall well…
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Now the fun part, fabricate some brackets and install the tanks on the chassis.