Assembling a Monocoque

Rune

Supporter
I had a trip today with a friend just to visit a local car&coffe . I just push on some power on some straight roads the beast scared me it was fast, and that was not with the pedal to the floor, I did not had the nerve to try it yet. reaction with the new gear ratio was excellent . So now I will do some small final adjustments on the Webers. I feel now that know how the Webers work and feel comfortable to work with them.
I have set the ign. timing to 13 deg and feel that it is ok. limited the rpm to 6500rpm. Finaly I can call me a happy GT40 clone builder :)
 
I had a trip today with a friend just to visit a local car&coffe . I just push on some power on some straight roads the beast scared me it was fast, and that was not with the pedal to the floor, I did not had the nerve to try it yet. reaction with the new gear ratio was excellent . So now I will do some small final adjustments on the Webers. I feel now that know how the Webers work and feel comfortable to work with them.
I have set the ign. timing to 13 deg and feel that it is ok. limited the rpm to 6500rpm. Finaly I can call me a happy GT40 clone builder :)
Your total ignition timing is perhaps more important, that initial timing of 13 deg is OK, but you should check the total advance as well, I think I remember maximum of 36deg at 3000 to check full advance. ( No Vacuum advance hooked up ) You might need to modify the centrifugal advance curve of the distributor once you have a few miles on the engine to get best performance & fuel consumption.
 

Rune

Supporter
I have now a gear ratio that I am happy with. So then I have a 3.2 gear set that is just laying here. If some of you want to go real fast, send me a message.
 

Rune

Supporter
Just a note to my build. Long time ago I bought aprox 1000kg with all kind of aircraft nuts and bolts (aircraft grade, UNF) that was made in mid 60's, so I did not have to buy anything in this category . It was nice to be able just go in the storage room in my garage and pick what was needed. ;) I also had a old instrument, a time. counter. So now I can control all hrs. the engine is running.
 
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Rune

Supporter
Some pictures from earlier this evening
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Just read this thread from start to finish.
Good lord that is some skill and patience that you and the other builders have.
I will happily admit that this is the most beautifully built car that I’ve seen so far - and that’s not easily said!
Am glad you’re out and about enjoying it, she’s a beauty.
 

Rune

Supporter
Your total ignition timing is perhaps more important, that initial timing of 13 deg is OK, but you should check the total advance as well, I think I remember maximum of 36deg at 3000 to check full advance. ( No Vacuum advance hooked up ) You might need to modify the centrifugal advance curve of the distributor once you have a few miles on the engine to get best performance & fuel consumption.
Just a small reply to this . I use MSD ignition system and it gives me 35-36 deg on high rev. I have hide the MSD parts so it is not easy to observe this newer ignition system. And with the Webers I have to forget all about fuel consumption carbs need lot of food. And in my area the gas station is never far away. :)
 
Just a small reply to this . I use MSD ignition system and it gives me 35-36 deg on high rev. I have hide the MSD parts so it is not easy to observe this newer ignition system. And with the Webers I have to forget all about fuel consumption carbs need lot of food. And in my area the gas station is never far away. :)
My memory goes on the blink at times... MSD ignition systems have a little trick where the ignition timing will retard itself slightly as the RPM rises, There is no list of models affected by this to my knowledge, just that it does happen, something like this... @ ~4000RPM you might have 38 deg btdc and it drop to say 34 deg btdc at 7000 RPM.
 

Rune

Supporter
Have been some time since my last post. My new gearing (4.5)(have a 3.2 crownwheel and pinion that can go, mint condition) works vey good seems that some adjusments on the ZF made it more smooth in shifting gears. Some lower top speed, but enough for a old lad. Nerves seems to come closer to the skin. I was not satisfied with all the heat from the exhaust around the carb area, so I decided to try to make a new exhaust in stailess. It was a huge puzzle but together it come and the temperature in motor compartment was suddenly low. I measured 100deg C lower temp on the pipes 6" from outlet and that is good . Good enough for me. Not easy to weld, but with back purge it was ok . I did not realise that stainless was twisting so much so I did not do final welding on flanges before everything fit. Now it is winter here in Norway, so no driving before spring. Only some starting from time to time and let it be warm.
 

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Neil

Supporter
Have been some time since my last post. My new gearing (4.5)(have a 3.2 crownwheel and pinion that can go, mint condition) works vey good seems that some adjusments on the ZF made it more smooth in shifting gears. Some lower top speed, but enough for a old lad. Nerves seems to come closer to the skin. I was not satisfied with all the heat from the exhaust around the carb area, so I decided to try to make a new exhaust in stailess. It was a huge puzzle but together it come and the temperature in motor compartment was suddenly low. I measured 100deg C lower temp on the pipes 6" from outlet and that is good . Good enough for me. Not easy to weld, but with back purge it was ok . I did not realise that stainless was twisting so much so I did not do final welding on flanges before everything fit. Now it is winter here in Norway, so no driving before spring. Only some starting from time to time and let it be warm.
No snow tires available that fit a GT40? :)
 
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