Doug’s RCR Jaguar D Type Build.

This looks like a terrific project, we wish you all the best in this new adventure.
In case you decide you want go full sacrilege in your build, you could build it with a straight 6 GM 4.2 liter - they are light, plentiful and make good power, especially for a light weight car. Though you want to know your state's rules on registration before using that motor - in NY, using a modern motor obligates you to use ECU with an OBD2 port, which brings its own set of complications.
 

Neil

Supporter
This looks like a terrific project, we wish you all the best in this new adventure.
In case you decide you want go full sacrilege in your build, you could build it with a straight 6 GM 4.2 liter - they are light, plentiful and make good power, especially for a light weight car. Though you want to know your state's rules on registration before using that motor - in NY, using a modern motor obligates you to use ECU with an OBD2 port, which brings its own set of complications.
Years ago there was a magazine article about replacing the Jaguar engine in an E-type with a Ford straight 6; it was an easy swap and weighed a lot less. Faster, too!
 
^ guessing you can drop 150 lbs out of the nose of the car by using a Ford or GM aluminum straight 6. More power and better drivability, too.
 

Randy V

Moderator-Admin
Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
My $.02 worth :: Stick with the Jag 4.2 - it’s not a bad engine and worlds better than the 3.8 to my recollection.
Yes, it’s a bit heavy for what it is and power isn’t quite up to par with modern engines - but - it’s JAG!
My hat’s off to you for taking on this project, particularly given some of your physical challenges.
 

Doug M

Supporter
Hello all. A bit delayed in posting, but this past Tuesday was a grand day indeed. Got to Detroit Monday night and awoke Tuesday to a cloudless morning. Arrived at RCR around 9:30 and was on the road by 11:00ish. The guys did a great job loading and securing everything. It was a lovely 7 hour drive home at 60mph. I got many thumbs up and nods of approval on the highway. I had a friend with a winch (not wench) help me unload it and roll it into my garage.

I’ll post more sooner than later. But overall, I’m very impressed with everything. The thickness of the body is impressive and the new rear end design looks great. There are a few parts that are backordered, but Fran tells me that I should get some of them in about a week and the rest in a few weeks.

My initial plan was to not work on the D Type until I finished my engine swap in my 57 Chevy, which has been more of a headache than I had anticipated. But I’ll probably take a page from Chuck’s book and step away from one build for a while to do the other. So, I’ll be full bore this summer in building the D Type.

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Doug M

Supporter
Tom, Randy, and Neil. Thanks for that info. I’ll certainly add the ideas to my research list. It all hinges on getting an automatic transmission that fits in the tunnel and allows for a long enough driveshaft. My Plan A is the Jag 4.2 with a GM 700r4 or 350 transmission. This might require shaving the sides of the bell housing and moving the engine block an inch or two forward if there’s enough space to do so.

Overall, I’m not too concerned about sacrilege since my goal is to drive and enjoy it for the rest of my life. Example… my experience rebuilding the Jag 4.2… if I ever owned an E Type with the V12, I wouldn’t hesitate for a moment to pull the engine and put in something reliable and easier to maintain. (I would keep the V12, though… I’m not a complete monster)

My very last resort will be a four cylinder inline with an automatic overdrive… probably a Ford 2.0 or 2.3 Eco something with stock 200 hp. The shorter engine can be mounted further forward, which would bring the transmission further forward and would give the bell housing more space to fit. It would look a little strange when the bonnet is open, but it would work.
 

Neil

Supporter
"My very last resort will be a four cylinder inline with an automatic overdrive… probably a Ford 2.0 or 2.3 Eco something with stock 200 hp."

You don't want to wind up with a sheep in wolf's clothing. If it looks fast, it had better be fast; you will be challenged on the street and you don't want to be humiliated by an SUV. ;)
 

Doug M

Supporter
Well, today was a reasonably productive day. The free 4.2 XK6 engine that I taught myself to rebuild two years ago is in the chassis. Not surprisingly, the GM 700r4 and 350 transmissions are too wide. The one automatic transmission that does fit is the BW-12 that came with the free engine. But, as I suspected might happen, the BW-12 rests on the transmission pan, which causes the engine to have a forward tilt.

I’ve been told by several transmission people to avoid the BW transmission. Funny enough, after some research, I found that the Ford C4 three speed automatic is the exact same size and a rock solid automatic transmission. So the challenge would be to mate a Ford C4 with an XK6. It may be feasible since both transmissions have removable bellhousings.

Also, the engine tilt is another big issue. I’ll consult with Fran next week to see if it’s possible to cut out enough space in the slotted floor of the transmission tunnel so that a C4 pan could drop through and level everything out.

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Neil

Supporter
Doug, if that BW-12 automatic transmission is the same one that Jaguar installed in their E-type 2+2, avoid it like the plague! I had one and I hated it. Step on the gas... there is a loud whirring noise and you creep forward. It's like an old Buick Dynaflow.
 

Doug M

Supporter
Some RCR D Type build updates.

So, I finally made a decision to go with a Borg Warner automatic. Chief reason is that it fits with no adapters needed, and also, I have two of them in my garage. And trust me when I say that I tried several other options for test fitting. I know the BW transmissions aren’t known for being as reliable, but the D Type will be nearly 1,600 pounds lighter than the XJ6 sedan it was previously used in. Also, this D Type is so easy to work on that routine maintenance should be much easier. So, both of those aspects should extend the BWs operating life.

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Also, it took a bit of staring and thinking, but I got the rear body off. I have a pile of older 2x4s in my workshop, so I made a rolling wood frame to make it easier to move the body out into my driveway when I’m working.

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The backordered brake parts arrived yesterday from RCR. I’ve never used anything by Wildwood before, but I converted the front brakes on my 57 Chevy to disc brakes a few years ago, and these should offer no surprises. Though they didn’t come with brake pads, and there isn’t an obvious part number… hopefully I’ll be able to find future replacements at a Napa instead of always special ordering them through Wildwood.

Though the rear calipers came with pads, but they were annoying to install. What usually takes me a minute or two on my 57 Chevy or Land Rover took almost a half hour, but it got sorted.

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Another thing I’ve encountered is that there’s a mix of Metric and SAE on the car. So, some bolts I can get easily, and others I might have to order because I live in a small town.

Ultimately, I’m anxious to really get started, but I’m waiting on parts, and since I don’t have a parts list, I don’t know if I’m actually waiting on some parts from RCR. I don’t want to buy something and have it arrive a few weeks later from RCR.

These things will work themselves out, though. Bottom line, I’m very happy with what’s in my garage so far.
 

Doug M

Supporter
A weekend of tinkering has revealed a major issue. The front and rear brake calipers seem to be too wide and thus interfere with the wheel rotation. The main culprit looks to be the bolts used on the inside of the RCR provided wheels.

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I used washers as test spacers. The rear wheels rotated freely with spacer thickness slightly less that 1/4 of an inch.

Front wheels required 1/2 an inch before rotating without interference. This will need to be remedied, of course.

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Some paint damage looks like the point of contact is only in a small spot. Potential solution might be to oh-so-very-carefully cut some material from the calipers. Whether this modification would eliminate the need for spacers or just reduce the thickness needed, I don’t know. I’ll obviously consult with RCR and Wilwood before doing anything. Hopefully, a more narrow caliper is available.

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If I'm understanding this right, the issue is that the wheel sits too close to the caliper, which is why the small bolts are hitting the caliper with rotation. This is of course ironic as we all purchased our wheels directly from RCR to prevent these types of issues. I know I considered purchasing from a third party vendor but ultimately went with RCR because I was assured their wheels were correct for the set up. I have also heard RCR is not machining the wheels in house and is probably purchasing them from the same third party I had considered. Seems that Chuck ultimately used spacers to gain clearance. That of course could create a whole other problem, such as wheel well clearance. Can't wait to hear the solution. Would hate to have to start cutting on the calipers.
 

Chuck

Supporter
Doug:

Can you identify specifically which caliper was provided with your kit?

My solution was using a different Wilwood caliper that was narrower. Details are on a prior post.

Only needed 1/8" spacer to complete the revision. I would not want to solve the problem with thicker spacers. that will aggravate the tire clearance problem and create other issues.

Here is the link. Hope this helps:
 
Chuck, looked closely at your link and I have a question. You said "the really good news is. that the offset dimension on the replacement ROTORS is .23 inches less than the calipers provided by RCR..." Is that suppose to say "replacement calipers"? You had said the only purchase was new Wilwood calipers, did you also purchase replacement rotors? As I have no car as of yet, I am attempting to visualize all this in my head, and that is not an easy task. Would hope RCR would be aware that there is a problem and provide the proper calipers, spacer and instructions? Hopefully Doug can get some answers.
 
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