The tail is now also almost finished. All pushrod parts are welded.
The transmission frame and the subframe for the hood are also finished.
The transmission frame and the subframe for the hood are also finished.
Scratch build MK IV
- Thread starter RexDanni
- Start date
Neil
Supporter
If that chrome-moly was a grade called "normalized", you do not need to heat treat it.
I leave the heat treatment now.
My frame would fit exactly in the oven, but areas of it would be too close to the heating flames, so that locally too high temperatures would occur. that would then be counterproductive.
So better directly to paint
Neil Thanks for the clarification, I'll look at the datasheet again for that.
My frame would fit exactly in the oven, but areas of it would be too close to the heating flames, so that locally too high temperatures would occur. that would then be counterproductive.
So better directly to paint
Neil Thanks for the clarification, I'll look at the datasheet again for that.
I would like to rivet my floor panel to the frame.
I was thinking of putting a 2mm butyl rubber-based sealant tape between the frame and the sheet.
TEROSON RB 81 - butyl rubber-based sealant tape
When riveting a test piece, I actually expected the butyl material to push to the side from the highest point of the tube. But this does not happen, due to the surface pressure the butyl itself is not compressed at the riveting points.
See picture.
My concern now is that the butyl may shrink a bit over time, which would mean loose rivets.
Have any of you had any experience with this? So gluing and riveting at the same time?
Or should I just rivet the sheet metal directly to the frame, and seal everything only in the second step with sealant from the cartridge?
Would appreciate some tips on the subject - thanks!
I was thinking of putting a 2mm butyl rubber-based sealant tape between the frame and the sheet.
TEROSON RB 81 - butyl rubber-based sealant tape
When riveting a test piece, I actually expected the butyl material to push to the side from the highest point of the tube. But this does not happen, due to the surface pressure the butyl itself is not compressed at the riveting points.
See picture.
My concern now is that the butyl may shrink a bit over time, which would mean loose rivets.
Have any of you had any experience with this? So gluing and riveting at the same time?
Or should I just rivet the sheet metal directly to the frame, and seal everything only in the second step with sealant from the cartridge?
Would appreciate some tips on the subject - thanks!
I would think, "if" its the same stuff as used on campers & caravans ( they also have butyl based sealands between all panels and windows) it won't shrink.
With these specs:
*Very high tackiness
*Very high adhesion strength
*Very good water and ageing resistance
*Self-welding
*Excellent adhesion to almost all substrates
*No corrosive constituents
You should be allright.
With these specs:
*Very high tackiness
*Very high adhesion strength
*Very good water and ageing resistance
*Self-welding
*Excellent adhesion to almost all substrates
*No corrosive constituents
You should be allright.
I used teroson's chassi glue and riveted the panels.
It is a common used method
It is a common used method
Which teroson glue exactly did you use?
The butyl on my Mopar is 50 years old still soft and sticks to everything
Teroson MS9220, it will never really go "hard", only on the surface.
It is made to withstand corrosion, salts etc.
It is there to seal, and glue, but never get hard and wither.
TEROSON® MS 9220
Body Repair – Bonding: for all areas where bonding and sealing is required. Silane-modified polymer, skin formation time: 15 min.
www.henkel-adhesives.com
Neil
Supporter
Looks familiar
451 rivets. This is where you will appreciate a non-manual rivet puller.Looks like you will need a large spacer on LH half shaft to have engine on center, might need a small weight on the other side half shaft to make up for that.
Hello
Do any of you guys know maybe what kind of seat was used in the MK IV? In the pictures it always looks like it was a one-piece seat pan made of fiberglass for both seats.
Or am I mistaken there? Is there still something like that somewhere.
To build my own mold is too expensive and time-consuming.
Does anyone have another idea?
Do any of you guys know maybe what kind of seat was used in the MK IV? In the pictures it always looks like it was a one-piece seat pan made of fiberglass for both seats.
Or am I mistaken there? Is there still something like that somewhere.
To build my own mold is too expensive and time-consuming.
Does anyone have another idea?
