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@Shaun Sizen If you decide to run a 1.3bar / 18psi cap I have a brand new one you can have for postage cost (price of a pint).

Hi Mike Thanks for the tips. I was using a little Antex soldering iron with a small tip, but I think I could have gone smaller yet. The veroboard was brand-new out of the cellophane just before I used it. I did wonder about the likely current draw and possible heat - these ICs are rated at 1.5A...

Loom arrived... And I have started collecting the gauges - all Smiths classic black bezel. These are NOS fuel gauges as fitted to Triumph TR-series, Reliant Scimitar and others:- The fuel gauges and the oil & water temp gauges are slightly awkward in that they require a 10V supply...

Bear in mind that your entire cooling system needs to be in tip-top shape to run pressures like Frank describes - don't want to blow a pin-hole in your expensive ally rad, or split a hose

Crank pics and measurements... And the scores on the doors (those of a metric indisposition should look away now...!)... All mains are at 57.11mm = 2.248" And all rod journals are at 53.92mm = 2.123" That's the end of the main dismantling, and it's been a relief to find a 50-y-o...

Thanks for the heads-up. Is it worth having it modified for one-piece seal when I take the block & crank for machining? And any recommendations for a good compromise of price vs. quality on 302 gasket sets? On my water-cooled Ducatis, the factory changed from composite head gaskets (with crimped...

Brian I never tire of seeing photos of your car...I guess this one is from your recent Grand Tour? May I use a copy as my Desktop background picture? Thanks, Eddy

Hi Shaun I would just use anything up to 50% red antifreeze, and a 13psi cap. In my experience, the red antifreeze works really well suppressing corrosion in engines built from a mix of iron block and aluminium heads / radiator.

My bad....it's cam pics first. Couple of the lobes have this odd wear which I've not seen before... This is the matching lifter...any trace of a crown on the lifter face is long since gone, though it's clearly still been rotating in its bore and scribing-out two concentric circles...

Mains out....someone sure had their money's-worth out of these bearings! Lowers:- Uppers:- I can see the contamination still embedded in the soft bearing metals; it's amazing what good condition the crank is in, considering the abrasion it must have been suffering from all this...

13psi ?

Thanks for the heads-up, Neil. I'll look into those.

Silver State Classic?

Popped-off a rod cap.. Tapped-out #1 piston & rod. Obvs more wear on the upper side of rod bearing.

Scraped the oily crud from the outside of the block and flipped it over - this is the view inside:- Still looking good so far.

Thanks Simon. Will let you know when I get to that stage.

I should add...of course I'm going to remove / check crank and have it ground & replace all bearings. Just out of academic interest I thought I'd see how worn-out it is beforehand.

@jac mac @kevinruthbox Thanks for your suggestions, which I am (slowly!) digesting. I did have a chat with the machine shop earlier in the year when I took them my first block (scrap) and their first response was "Stroke it to 347...a lovely engine...you need more torque...torque is speed"...

Dizzy set for TDC on no.1.....but is it the compression stroke or exhaust stroke? Caught me out once; did I feel like a prize idiot or what?!

Further photos, once the other head was lifted and timing cover removed...an odd clean patch on the top of piston #7... This is the worst cylinder, #8 - there's a tide mark where think there's been water allowed to get in and settle:- The timing chain was absolutely on its last...