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Yes - I should have taken a photo, but I bolted the ally plate to the damper using the three ³/8 pulley holes and ran a large bolt down the centre to press on the (loosened) damper mounting bolt. Came off very easily.

I popped out to the garage to take another look earlier, and found amongst my odd fabricated tools a thick ally plate with 3 holes drilled in strategic positions for pulling a Triumph crank back into the main bearings - this did the job nicely with a large centre bolt. Didn't need much pressure...

Y'know, Nick...I have just such a thing in the bottom of the roller drawers somewhere. The side links are a bit stretched, after trying to use it on a Ducati primary gear a few years back. They sit on a taper, with no key, and transmit 130-off horsepower. Needless to say the nut holding it on it...

Thanks, Kevin. I like the look & originality of the iron heads, but the valves are small, and the exhaust ports are the size of postage stamps! Current favourite options are AFR165 or Edelbrock Performer heads. Or some bare Chinese castings checked and fitted with Manley valves, Comp springs and...

Looks like a prehistoric tar-pit, big enough to swallow a T-rex...!

Hi Mike Just need to beg or borrow a harmonic balancer puller (I have 2 and 3 leg pullers, bearing pullers etc but nothing that fits quite right) then I can get the timing cover off before diving into the bottom end. If the crank isn't scored and is close to stock size I'm sticking with a 3"...

Pretty sure that Keith and Belinda have Mk3 uprights on their (her!) SGT40, too?

Does Mick supply different wishbones for Granada uprights, compared with the John Wisher-style cast aluminium uprights? And do you still have some adjustment remaining on the inboard end of the wishbones...on the rod ends?

As mentioned in my build thread, I recently bought a '69 302 for rebuild:- Which looks like a '68-style casting, but poured in March '69? Go easy on me if I've got this wrong! Aluminium tag is still in place, which makes me think it's not been apart, but what about these threaded gallery...

Hi Phil What if the hole in the top spacer was offset towards the car centre line, plus relieving the lug with a grinder... would that get you the clearance you need? I realise that's a change to KPI, but it might not need to be a huge change. Eddy

Here's a steel chassis in production for a Gelscoe car You couldn't just copy this design, but use aluminium instead...the materials have completely different properties and need different chassis designs and construction methods. To see how an aluminium chassis is made, look at Marcus or...

So this is what I have... Which looks like a '68-style casting, but poured in March '69? Go easy on me if I've got this wrong! Aluminium tag is still in place, which makes me think it's not been apart, but what about these threaded gallery plugs... which would have been pressed-in...

If it helps, I've been looking for 3 years, too. Check with Mark Gaskins at "Obsolete Fleet". He brings motorcycles in from the US, but has recently started adding a few engines to his containers. No affiliation, no endorsement, just another possible source.

Pretty sure that's Broadley in the yellow windcheater, and, if my eagle eyes don't deceive me, "Jenks" right at the back, under the left umbrella. https://www.motorsportmagazine.com/archive/article/december-1966/37/on-the-road-with-the-ford-gt40

Oh....and I appear to have bought a 1969 Ford small block 302 cubic-inch V8 engine. Complete, containing relatively clean oil and fresh coolant, so fingers crossed.

I don't the inspector's hemisphere will be able to touch the internal mechanism:- The phrase "pinch trap" doesn't appear in the 2018 IVA manual against which I'm building this car. Have you got any further information about this part of the assessment? Cheers, Eddy

First of all, I lay awake for a couple of hours between 3 and 5am so I could think about how to align my stamped numbers. I do this a lot with GT40-related issues. Then I went out to the garage and measured the cut-out in the stainless steel gate top cover, and decided I needed 12mm between the...

I think I can make my gear lever comply:- The lever itself is 8mm thick stainless, so the radius is 4mm - pass! A leather gaiter will be fitted which covers the shift gate so there's no gap. I'll fit a different reverse lock-out lever which has much more rounded edges. The aluminium cover...

Do you mean fail on "sharp edges"?

Gear linkage cover and shift gate made.