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  1. Joystick

    S2's Build Thread

    Scott, I had the same problem. Started with a shorter bolt but even then the suspension didn’t reach full droop, it was binding on the inner bolts. What I did was to install the screw from the top instead. I guess with your recess you will not have that problem, but I suggest that you check that...
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    Kurt H (hoffkm) SL-C build thread

    Kurt, do you have the stock injectors on your Fast LSXR 102? The reason I ask is that I have the same, stock injectors and fuel rail and injector extension/adapters. The thing is the extensions only fits between the injector and manifold not between injector and fuel rail. It just seems odd to...
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    Mounting the Superlite emblems

    I have 3D printed center caps. I got them from a very helpful forum member. Looks very nice and fits perfect.
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    Placement of cooling tubes under front control arm

    Correct Joel, I set it up to come on at 92˚C and below 1800rpm but have now changed to only temperatur regulation. I will switch back to temp/rpm set up once I figure out a ”time delay” on the rpm. Pump turns on/off alot if cruising around that rpm.
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    Radiator Bleed Setup Question

    Hector, I have a 3/4” hose from the bottom of the expansion tank to the low pressure side of the system just before the WP inlet. It also works if connected to the heater inlet. I unscrew the radiator steam line and cyl head steam vent and apply the vacuum , one line at a time and it will fill...
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    Cadillac Alternator Jumper Wire? - Need Electrical Insight

    Dan, here is the link. https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1912154-2-pin-2006-alternator-don-t-throw-away.html
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    Cadillac Alternator Jumper Wire? - Need Electrical Insight

    Dan, check out my post #207-209, there’s a link to the Corvette forum that explains how the 2-pin works. If no PWM signal to the L-pin the alternator will go into default mode, approx 13,6Volts, most likely not enough for our needs.
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    Cadillac Alternator Jumper Wire? - Need Electrical Insight

    Dan, if it’s a 4-pin , it should be marked P, L, I, S. P= rpm, not used. L=control lamp or resistor. I= ignition +12V (exiter). S= sense, connect to bus bar where you pull a lot of current or to battery.( for the internal regulator to get a more accurate demand info.) The alternator should work...
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    Restarting my SLC project in West Texas

    Hector, you have your heimjoint above the mounting bracket, I have mine below. It might work but I don’t think so.(It depends of where you have your column mounted, vertically) I made a very thourough bumpsteer adjustment about a year and a half ago and it was very good from the factory. I think...
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    Restarting my SLC project in West Texas

    I’ll take a picture tomorrow
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    Restarting my SLC project in West Texas

    Ok. Maybe you have an upgraded upright, mine is 3 years old now. But I checked mine today and it’s mounted below the bracket.
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    Restarting my SLC project in West Texas

    Hector. In your post #148, second picture, it lookes like you have mounted the steering rod on top of the bracket. I’m pretty sure it’s supposed to be mounted below. Dont have my car here so I’m not able to check. It will give you a terrible bump steer. Best regards, Johan
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    Placement of cooling tubes under front control arm

    Correct Joel. I placed my cooling tube with minimal clearance to the LCA, I think I have 1 or 2 millimeters in between. I figured how often are you at full droop. Another thing when it comes to cooling, at least with my engine set up the stock water pump does not supply enough flow below...
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    Scandinavian SL-C build

    Joel, I forgot about the pictures but here they are. I put one layer of 5mm thick tape on the coolant tube then filled the cavities between the tube and body with clay and smoothed it. From below I temporarely glue a piece of 3mm plexi from the extended floor panel to meet with the body then a...
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    Scandinavian SL-C build

    Joel, that close out panel you have to fabricate will extend all the way to the extended floor panel. That is if you fab it to cover the bottom as well. To answer your question, yes I’m happy with the union position, it’s accessible from below, just remove the close out panel before. I’ll try to...
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    Scandinavian SL-C build

    Yes I know it’s more accurate, but the last three motors I’ve assembled the stretch has been dead on with the same torque on all rods. Just have to figure out the torque numbers if the manufacturer doesn’t include it in the instructions. It might help that I always use the same ARP assembly lub...
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    Joel’s SL-C Build Thread

    The doors are very stable if you strengthen the body and door the way I did and it looks clean. The way Cam did it the stuts are more accessible.
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    Scandinavian SL-C build

    Being Covid-bored I decided to build my 416", I've had the parts for a year and now was a goood time to start. After weight matching rods and pistons a buddy of mine balanced the rotating assy and also honed the block to 4.070". I made two alu plunges to make solid lifters out of two hydrualic...
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