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hey guys, update soon. I have been down in kentucky finishing off a very large project for work the last 2 months. It gets commissioned tomorrow, and I will be back in MA wrenching on the car. The rear sub frame is at the welders, just waiting for me to pick it up. Front one goes to get welded...

I like your plan, I was planning the same. I am planing carbon fiber reinforcement on the inside.

So big update. The rear mounts for the large drive units are at the welders. Was supposed to have them back this week, but he's backed up. Really wanted to show the rear motors mounted in the frame, but that will have to wait. I have been working on the mounts for the two small drive units...

I Iive in MA, and it's part of the reason I didn't buy a spyder 550 I was looking at last year. It is also what pushed me over the edge to build a EV slc. The liscence path is easier. I love a lot about MA, but the longer I live here.... the cracks are starting to show. I look at guys on...

ha! my bad. I know that there is one SLC going to France. User "French Fred" is doing a Electric/Tesla one.

I think we can repeat what Fran has said.... No way it's street legal. No mso., no dot glass, no dot headlights, way too low. However, he said similar about the nemisis and I think someone out one on the road eventually. Search the forums, there is a thread about the nemsis.

Can anyone give me an idea of what ride heights people are using on street vs track? I have read a variety of threads and it seems a lot of people are running 4-4.5" front / 4.7-5.25" rear on the street. Manual is 4"/4.5" ideal. Is that ideal for track, and we compromise for the street? 4"...

So batteries really are the one area where the current automotive offerings are not really tailored to performance/racing. I would think hard about using the model 3's. They re going to be hard to fit... Batteries are really tailored to the application. Most automotive batteries are really...

Right now, I have decided to give the open inverter hardware a try. For me, I already have all the inverters off the drives, and swapping boards is easy. I linked up with a guy who has a lot of experience with them who is local. He is getting about 15% more HP out of his drives with it. That...

I can second what Howard says here. I am doing major modifications to the chassis, and in the end I will be welding a single aluminum cross member in the rear. Everything else will be bolted using the stock holes. I am not doing the welding myself. My first thoughts when I got my chassis was...

OK. So went and got two digital methods of measuring. A level and a angle finder. Once calibrated my driver side is 74.5 and the passanger is 74.6. Bottom chassis cross bar is 0.1 so that is good. I'm going to call it 74.5, or 15.5. I may have to not use slot and tabs for the angled part of my...

yeah joel is the billet piece of the chassis right at the rear. At the top the steel support cage and rear shock mount attaches to it, at the bottom the rear joint for the lower control arm attaches. it has oval cut outs along the length of it. it is 2" wide. In my photo you can see a wood...

quick question. does anyone know the true spec for the angle of the billet uprights on the rear chassis. I have measured them off my chassis at 13 degree, but this off. when i measure the 3d scans I have I get more like 15.7 degree., seems like a odd angle. The mounts I made are off by just a...

This is exactly what I tried when I got the car, and it's just not going to be enough. Only about 1/2 inch, plus on mine it makes rim contact at full turn. You have a good idea there I could mount it on top of the upright, at the correct angle to the lower control arm, but with about 10 degree...

So now that the rear mounts for the motors are done, and out to metal fab, I am coming back to look again at my front end sketches, and trying to fit a drive in up front. The issue is you need to open up a fairly large hole in the firewall to fit the drive through. On par with the size of the...

so, just a fyi, you probably already know this, the center spine of the chassis is offset i think 4 inches to the passenger side. swaping the from RHD to LHD is going to leave you with a pretty narrow drivers side. If your are really tiny you maybe ok. If you are a 6'3" "gentleman" you might...

Yeah so when I looked at the fusion360 output dxf files in adobe they looked fine to me. However the company I am using, ponoko, flagged them all as having double line weights. Basically the laser would cut everything twice is how they explained it. The same files on my friends cheapo Chinese...

I have a set of LG chem's, but I am going to use them on a different project, a pulse autocycle i picked up. Going with a custom battery here, kind of like alot of electric motorcycle guys are building. Trying to link up 4 strings of LG chems was just going to get to costly with battery...

Yeah it's not they way I have done it before either. But the clearances where so tight, the semi-symmetric design, and the with the number axis i had hit just made sense to try something new. Plus with 3d scans of the motors and chassis available it was a logical choice. The cost of laser...

Couple more shots of the subframe on the motors. I haven't removed the inverter from one of them yet, but I had to make sure I could get frames in to the units, and that everything was aligned. I need to add a couple access holes for nuts, but it looks ok. Going to cut a few parts more out...