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I would recommend cutting the old one loose at both ends and removing the console unless the wire wrapped line moves freely. mine was wedged between the tunnel and a support bracket and would not move. It was also tie wrapped to another wire. It is also nice to make sure the wires are not...

Bill, I did not build but have done a lot of work on my GT40. Chet in Kingwood WV

I have the Speedhut gauges and love them. I finally have good illumination at night. I can't wait for one of the Smiths/Lucas gauges to quit in my Cobra so I can dump them there also. I went with the pulse type speedometer. Your choice.

If I ever need to pull mine apart, I believe I would just drill holes that oil/silicone could be dropped in on the shaft.

My car developed the same problem last year. I thought i screwed something up while adjusting the brake balance bar. If i did not pull the brake back with my toe, the front brakes would lock up. When I unhooked the pedals I found that the pedals were binding on the shaft. It is just about...

Problem solved! I ordered a S&B 26-1522 filter and it is about 1mm bigger in diameter and stays tight when screwed in.

I have a Roush 427R with the "Powered by Roush" "V8" valve covers with 4 fittings one of which is threaded for a screw in vent filter. I can not keep the filter tight and after a while the threaded portion breaks off from the filter. I'm tired of keeping K&N in business buying filters. I checked...

I moved mine when I first got the car from the inside and was finally able to get all four bolts started. I left the top left bolt "loose" since it needed to pull the attaching bracket down more than I thought it should and the assembly was tight anyway. This Winter I removed the air...

I installed a glass rear bulkhead window and filled the rear of the center tunnel with removable closed cell foam to help the noise and heat. Other than taking out the side windows, I don't see much else that can be done except maybe a A/C upgrade/overhall. I don't think the cabin noise is bad...

Do a search on Brake and Clutch Reserviors or just posts with the word reservior in it.

Looks like the plate you have on the rear would also work on the front without using the sway bar holes? Where to buy? Chet

I think Alan is on the right track. Check and see if the fuel line to the injection is close any exhaust or engine heat especially if the injection is fed from the rear. If so, insulate the line with a heat sleeve and see if it helps. A picture might help us diagnose that kind of problem. Chet

Drop a dipstick down the fill/vent hole and you should have 2" of oil on it. This should equal 2.5 quarts.

Good point Tim. I drilled all 3 of mine to get the wire away from the valve stem.

Tach wire should connect to an output on your ignition box. MSD usually uses a grey wire for the tach output? What kind of ignition box are you using? Chet

It is cheaper just to use a magnetic sensor on the left half shaft. Dennis sells them.

Alan, They are just O-rings that are there just for cosmetic purposes. I did not install the O-rings shown in the photos on the underside. I just used them for a trial fit.

Here was my solution to the reservior problem. I enlarged the holes and installed plastic reserviors and JB welded them in the hole after attaching them to the original bracket with tie wraps.

Just heard from California Car Covers and they are going to fix the cover. Thanks for all of the input. Chet

Ian, Thanks! That's what I was looking for. I'll borrow a Corvette cover and try it.