They will be Granada mk3 as mentioned, but will depend on the donor. Either 262mm non cosworth or (preferably) 273x20mm vented from the mk3 Granada Cosworth (2.9l 24v).
Footwell panelling getting there, will be powdercoated eventually. Also mocked up the clutch, water and brake lines. Will wrap the water pipes and add some protection to the brake and cluth lines to avoid rubbing.
Brake lines etc in. Gone for hardlines from the reservoirs to the master cylinders so I can avoid the steering UJ. Fabricated a cover for the washer bottle and hood for the fuse boxes to avoid splashes.
Made a mocked up seat to undertand the pedal box / steering location better and as a template for proper seats.
I've found that the pedal box is way too offset at the moment, so will need modifying to fit round the chassis tube.
Also made the firewall panel in front of the pedal box.
Finished off the panel in front of the steering rack, including using the 3D printed press to form round the anti-roll bar mounts, and used the rolling tool again to make a lip so the access panel can sit flush. Hopefully will reduce radiator heat ingress into the cabin.
Hi Ryan,
In this area it's 1.2mm 1050A aluminium sheet. Not sure of the hardness I'm afraid. I haven't annealed yet. Print is simply PLA at 210deg. I usually don't quite go to 100 as I find 95% enables you to loose any overextrusion due to filment variation. I'm going to redesign the tool above...
I want to remake the panel in front of the steering rack so it seals properly to avoid hot air coming into the cabin from the radiator. This is tricky with the clamp bosses for the front anti roll bar as they protude from the chassis a few mm. Designed a press tool and 3d printed it. First test...
Had a bit of a down time after slicing my hand open on a piece of aluminium. Trip to A&E and a couple of weeks away from the garage.
Made up an adapter from the steering wheel to the weld on quick release adapter. Had to do this on the milling machine using the rotary table as I don't have a...
Note that the roll bar may be too narrow or too wide as Nick and I have found out. I widened mine with breeze blocks and a bottle jack (see my thread), and Nick used a strap to narrow his. I found a couple of straps to the ceiling invaluable to help position the roll bar prior to welding.
Then used three spanners to apply tension and compress the rivnut. The top one (head of the m8 bolt) is held stationary to avoid spinning the rivnut. The middle spanner (on the m8 nut) is tightened to squash the rivnut, whilst the lower spanner is held stationary on the m10 nut to stop the...
Thanks guys. I've found a 7/16 brass pipe fitting at cbs which should work one i've drilled and tapped out one of the bosses.
More work on the water pipes. Needed to fit an m8 rivnut, but realised although i had some, my rivnut tool only goes upto m6. Came up with a cunning hack...
I...
Kevin,
Good spot! THere's no bleed at the moment. This is a first fix at the moment so I can sort all the pipework through the tunnel. There's a couple of threaded bosses on the top of the rad that I hope can simply be drilled through and plugged with a bolt / o ring.
Has anyone else done this...
I'm happy to be corrected, but is epoxy the correct adhesive to be fixing to fibreglass? I thought you are better with polyester best adhesive to go with the polyester resin used in the grp. Epoxy adhesive for epoxy layup. It may give better adhesion to the metal inserts I suppose. Any comment...
Hi Nick, thanks for your concern! It was a couple of years ago, but I think we caught that one at the time, I remember messages on the group. I'll try to measure and check though. I don't have a dash yet, I didn't buy Darrens.