01E install

I thought I would start another 01E fitment thread.
I recently changed from a 016 to 944 trans but the clutch and trans was not up to the power of the 414 stroker Windsor motor. I have decided to replace the 944 with a 6spd 01E and an upgraded Clutch with an adapter kit made by Eric of Kitcarchassis.com.

First job was to strip off all the KEP parts and start again. 1st step is to fit the adapter plate. 2 dowels locate the plate in position.
 

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Next is to install a the flywheel. This flywheel incorporates the pilot bearing. I had to get the flywheel custom balanced to suit my custom balance
Stroker motor, cost about $260. The flywheel feels a few kilo's heavier than the
KEP flywheel I had before. A bit of sealant on the flywheel bolts. I gave the clutch face a light sand to remove the shine and wax and grease remover to take off anti rust lube.
 

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Clutch was next , I ordered an upgraded clutch for the 01E. Seems to have an uprated pressure plate and the Clutch plate has a ceramic material flywheel side
And organic pressure plate side. Pretty easy fit and the clutch kit included an alignment tool.
 

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Next was install gearbox , I ordered an alloy clutch slave cylinder and the kit runs a standard clutch fork and throw out bearing. Gearbox went in fine and bolted up flush.
 

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Dave, thanks for taking the time to share your transplant project. Who's manufacture GT40 are you swapping transaxles? The new clutch/pressure plate and flywheel, do you have brand and part number info?

Continue to post photos and details of this swap, we can all benefit from your effort.
 
Dave, thanks for taking the time to share your transplant project. Who's manufacture GT40 are you swapping transaxles? The new clutch/pressure plate and flywheel, do you have brand and part number info?

Continue to post photos and details of this swap, we can all benefit from your effort.

The clutch and pressure plate are Audi parts and the flywheel is custom made. I left extra material on it for balancing and it also thicker than the 016 so that makes it heavier. If you balance it by removing material around the diameter and leave a weight on one side rather than drilling holes on the opposite side of the weight you can make it lighter.
 
Looks good Dave.

Ahhh... the problem with too much power. :)

It can also be helped by lowering the right foot pressure, but what's the fun in that??
 
Yes will picture and detail the whole transplant including shifter and finish with a driving video. My car is a RF but it is the Robert Logon race chassis so different in the back end than standard RF's.

Hi John, a few people have told me to just drive it nicely and sedately......ha ha never...
 
Dave,

You're moving along nicely. You've probably seen the thread I began which has come to a bit of a standstill while the shop I'm using searches for the proper axle to use on one side of the car which is why some are questioning what your swap entails. Continued success and keep us posted.
 
Next step in the install is to check clutch operation and engine start, easier now then when the box is completely installed, 4 bolts and it out again if changes need to be made. I found the start works perfect. The slave cylinder needed a bit of bleeding to get right and I needed a new fitting ( M12 x 1 to dash 3) I needed to add a bit more throw on my clutch pedal to get release right. I just get someone in the car to push clutch while i twist drive flanges and feel where the clutch engages.

Axles...The 016 flanges swap into the 01E do this if you have a 016, save you buying adapters or new cv joints. I prebought my adapters so have decided to use them.
My right side driveshaft still fits even with the new offset to the left side of the car. I may fit a 4 or 5mm spacer between outer cv joint axle flange.
The left side my driveshaft needs to be shortened about 10mm to work....I will just strip the cv's off the shaft and send it to my Guy that resplined my 944 input shaft. He can make a new splined shaft to the right length and job done. I will take some pics and update the thread with what I am using.
 
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Dave, having just spoke to the shop doing my install (I wish I was as talented as so many are on this site) they appear to be doing pretty much what you're doing. One side of my box needs a new shortened shaft (drivers side on a LHD car) based on the off-set which they are in the process of making.

They also mentioned the kit I obtained from the CAV factory (see posted list on the 016 to 01E thread) has been pretty all encompassing with only one piece not being used. Did you have to create extensions for your box to mate up to the cables or other additional "special" pieces to get things to work?

Continued success.
 
Hi Jimmy
I am keeping a close eye on your conversion as well. I started this thread because I think yours was more related to CAV owners and using CAV supplied parts where mine is purely generic parts and kits so i didn't want to dilute or confuse your thread.

Shifter
I already had a 5 speed shifter supplied by cableshift.com. It works ok but has a bit of slop in it and I am thinking of changing it out to the Corolla shifter at a later date . I had to make new mounting brackets to suit the 01E for the shifter cables. I then found the shifter didn't quite have enough sideways throw so had to pull it apart and trim a few bits for a few more mm of movement. All worked out ok. I made really solid cable mounts gearbox end as I didn't want any flex interfering.
 

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Had to modify my exhaust a little due to the extra width of the adapter plate, no big deal but something to watch for. i have a dummy shortened cv shaft ready to be sent for machining a new one....pretty costly at $750, hope i measued it correctly....lol. Pics when it comes back from the machine shop.
 

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The shop handling my install are doing the same Dave. Whats the old saying measure twice, cut once. I'm unsure what the $$ for my shaft will be but hopefully I won't get "shafted." Couldn't resist the pun. Good Luck.
 
Jimmy would be good if you could post who is doing your shaft and how much it costs? might cheaper for me to get mine done in the States. My quote was $750 Au.
 
Dave, I've just spoken to the shop (SRE) and they've been very gracious in offering the following:

Once the dimensions and drawings of the shaft have been submitted to them and approved they will advise me of the cost to make 1 axle and they'll be happy to ask the vendor what 2 would cost. The 1st thing we'd need to know is will the dimensions of my axle be the same as the one you need and 2nd will the splines at each end be the same as yours also. If our axle dimensions and splines match it might be beneficial to make 2. SRE advised they would be glad to deal with you on the 2nd axle and would ship direct. Its my understanding they ask 10-20% over cost for all parts plus the shipping of course. That's fair and pretty much standard I believe.

Lets see what dimensions I get and how the splines look and we can then compare with your measurements. SRE even said they'd be willing to email me the axle drawing with dimensions. That is a very generous offer IMHO as they are under no obligation to do so.
 
I will get mine done locally this time as i need to get the car back on the road asap but will still be good to know the cost for future transplanters. My gap between flanges is 430mm which is what my shaft length is. You have to be careful where you measure from. My shaft is at it's longest when at full suspension droop. My shaft is at it's longest at full droop as that when it's nearly straight. So work out your shortest point between flanges before measuring your shaft length.
 
New cv shaft has arrived. Was costly, must be a better way? But here it is so looking forward to getting home and getting the car back on the road.
 

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Pat

Supporter
Thanks for the great info. What was the difference in the gap between full droop and the shortest gap length and how did you compensate for the difference without binding the suspension travel?
 
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