289 build recipe

#1
I've been scouring the internet for ideas on this build. I just can't seem to sort out the finer points of the build. I plan to run 48 IDFs and 180 degree headers. I want to run Hypereutectic pistons. I will be using reconditioned stock connecting rods with ARP studs. The crank will be stock, ground and polished if necessary. ARP main cap studs. The heads and cam are my biggest question. I don't know what to use for aluminum heads. I would like to stay around $2000 for a pair. I don't know how to choose the valve size or combustion size or anything that has to do with a head. The cam is the same thing. I have no idea how to choose a cam to match the heads. I would like to run a hydraulic flat tappet setup. What gaskets do I use, what bearings do I use?
All the online forums are either vague or confusing. I want a solid v8 that is good mannered on the streets but not limited to just street light to street light driving.
Any and all feedback will be greatly appreciated.
 

Randy V

Administrator
#2
Shawn,

Dart Pro1 or AFR-185 heads would be good choices.
Camshaft - I would look into the selection sold by Comp Cams that is made to work with Webers on an individual runner intake manifold. Less overlap / intake reversion, better manners, good torque. You would need a link-bar roller lifter setup.
I think there are specs for the cam on my build blog (link in signature).
 
#3
First off, nice build page Randy! Thanks for the advice also. How are the headers to install on your car with the one piece header flanges? I have heard that they are a bearcat to install when all the pipes are attached to one long header flange.
 

Randy V

Administrator
#4
Thanks Shawn.
The headers are not hard to install at all. I think the right side gets installed first, then the left side primaries are threaded through to pal up with the right sides - then collectors are installed. The collectors are a tad finicky, but patience and perseverance prevail.
I have sold the car complete to Mitch Krause now. I should update my build blog to indicate that.
 

Richard

Silver Supporter
#6
Not long ago I googled 302 aluminum heads. Somewhere in the google list was an article comparing different heads...six budget ford heads that work-hot rod network. Very interesting article and they rank the heads and tell you why. Also the recommended all around head was under $2000.00. I'd link the article if I knew how but it should not be hard to find.


Richard
 
#9
I ran a 289 "HiPo" cam sourced from Holman Moody with Eddie RPM heads, 11/1 CR, 5.4 rods plus 44IDF carbs. It was a sweet running mill for sure!
 
#13
I'm starting with a bare block, crank and connecting rods so I might as well go with a roller cam and a good set of aluminum heads. I still don't know what cam to go with or what kind of head to match that with. I will be boring it 30 or 40 over to clean up the cylinder walls. I will not be stroking it though.
 

Jac Mac

Active Member
#14
I'm starting with a bare block, crank and connecting rods so I might as well go with a roller cam and a good set of aluminum heads. I still don't know what cam to go with or what kind of head to match that with. I will be boring it 30 or 40 over to clean up the cylinder walls. I will not be stroking it though.
5.0 Roller Lifters wont work in 289 block unless you use Deeper Dog Bones & spot face lifter bore ( top Side). Aftermart link bar type cannot be removed/fitted with heads on. Aftermart types may have different roller dia to O/E. Hyd roller gives good reliability on street due to constant roller/lobe contact, Solid is prone to failure since rev kit wont fit on 289 block. Regular lash checks reqd.
 
#15
I think I would use one of the retro fit roller cam kits that they make for the older 289-302s. There are several designs to choose from. A roller cam would give me peace of mind in the long run.
 

Howard Jones

Gold Supporter
#16
Better yet, start with a hyd roller 5.0 302, balance it correctly with 10 to 1 pistons, a set of Edelbrock Alum heads, and a cam with 280ish duration and about .500 lift. You should be right at 1.2HP per inch or 360ish HP. Add the CNC port job and they say you can gain another 30HP on a 302.

Now you could build a 331 if you need a rotating assembly anyway and you would be well north of 400HP on pump gas. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Aluminum Cylinder Heads - Ford - Small-Block - E-CNC - Edelbrock, LLC.

COMP Cams: Magnum, 281HR Great in Street Machines, Good Torque, Mild Rough Idle

Scat Engine Rotating Assemblies 1-45155BE - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

The crank kit comes with a balancer (28oz) and you will need to balance the complete kit with your flywheel.

Confirm part mutual compatibly for a 10 to 1 CR and valve clearance by calling Scat, Comp cams, and edelbrock. But in any case this is the basic idea.
 
#17
As was mentioned earlier, if you're going to go with Webers, you need to chose a cam with limited overlap to limit intake reversion. The rest will be up to you, and a fun bench-racing exercise. If you've got the cash, going full roller is a nice option.
 

Mike D

Lifetime Premier Supporter
#18
A lot of options. I chose an alloy Dart 302 with near original spec solid lifter cam and 11.5/1 compression and Eagle forged crank with stock bore and stroke. Made 450hp at ~7500 and runs very strong on top. I was worried going from the stroked 427 to the 302 would be a let down. Its actually been opposite. It may not have the low end torque(that breaks things) but on top it feels even stronger and pulls hard past 8k. I have the rev limiter set to 7200 and it is still pulling hard there. For me it's a lot more fun to drive than the 427 and hopefully a little easier on the chassis and drivetrain. This engine is also lighter than the iron 9.5" deck Dart iron block. Cars weighs 1924lbs. Good luck.
 
Top