8 stack close to header. heat problems

Help please. I purchased an 8 stack fuel injection for my 302 stroker and the headers are very close to the last two stacks.
The headers are at best about an inch and a half away. I will ceramic coat the headers but is it going to still be too much heat?

Can anyone tell me if you have the same set up and is heat an issue.


Larry L.

Lifetime Supporter
I'm stating the obvious I suppose, but, what about simply using heat wrap on the offending length/section of header? Cosmetically it might not be 'ideal', but...
A tray like this one will sort it. Its sandwiched between the TB`s and the manifold with heat resistant material on the back next to the exhaust. The top of the tray is a few millimeters from the deck


I get the closer is bad thing. What I'm trying to figure out is what distance away will be acceptable. I don't want to wrap the pipes but I will install a turkey tray.
Anyone have issues with heat with a turkey tray?
I'm feeling more comfortable with this.
If I install a turkey tray and wrap it on the header side with something like zircoflex it should get a lot of the heat away.....

Anyone else have something to add?

Thanks fellas !!

Dave Hood

Lifetime Supporter
Carman - Shielding the heat is probably a good idea, but my Eight Stack setup has about two inches of clearance between my ceramic coated headers and the fuel line. I've never had a problem. Will the wiring harness from your ECU run to the back of the engine, or connect to the Eight Stack system near the bulkhead? I moved my connection to the bulkhead area because the heat from the back of the engine (where the connection was originally) melted my plastic connector at the end of the wiring harness.
The wiring harness is at the front of the eight stack ( bulk head side ) Can you send me a few pictures of your eight stack and header clearance ? It will help me.

What ecu system are you using with your eight stack? How hard was the set up?

Thanks Dave
I made a simple shield for the rear stacks( kind of like a turkey pan with only one side) and put heat shield on the header side of the stainless steel pan. It looked clean and simple and worked
Unfortunately this pic was taken when I was trial fitting the piece. I attached it at the bottom of the stacks and then bent it down to cover the throttle bodies.


First let us know whether you are running webers or FI. Some answers depend on it.
Second, heat problems affect everything in the engine bay!!

Some suggestions. The heat problem you are asking about has an easy solution. You only need to add some aluminum shielding between the throttle body(s) in question and the offending exhaust pipe(s). You can leave it like that or insulate it. it really doesn't matter. That is why the turkey pan works so well. If you try the pan add some insulation from the pan to compress onto the tray of the rear clip. It then cuts off the hot air to the throttle bodies all together(almost).

Next the fuel lines. If they are on the outside, consider moving them to run down the valley of the throttle bodies. Here is my engine with a TWM setup.

Notice I have no insulation or heat shield(s). I have stainless exhaust and they shed heat pretty fast. They start glowing around 2500 rpm. 2000 rpm is about 60 mph for me. There are no issues on the highway at all. I run the electric water pump only for water temps in the 150-160 degree range. I don't run the engine bay fans unless I am in dead stop and go traffic. Don't use them in red light traffic at all. One main reason is I have a circulating fuel line with the regulator at the end of the line, that sends excess flow back to the swirl pot and then back to the tanks. Now when I go racing, I will add a shield only.

To get yours down the middle, it may involve switching the banks of the throttle bodies. If this is not possible, see first suggestion. Make Turkey pan high enough to cut off direct path of heat from exhaust to the fuel lines. Insulation to the tray should fix that.
For the rest of the things here check out Chuck and Ryans build thread. It is one of the most complete ones on the forum. http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-build-logs/22083-chuck-ryans-rcr-build.html
Third, consider insulating the rear tray from the exhaust heat. It will bubble the paint. I know. http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-build-logs/22083-chuck-ryans-rcr-build-18.html #357 and
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-build-logs/22083-chuck-ryans-rcr-build-38.html #743
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-build-logs/22083-chuck-ryans-rcr-build-34.html #667
Air filters http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-build-logs/22083-chuck-ryans-rcr-build-23.html #442
Heat shielding http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-build-logs/22083-chuck-ryans-rcr-build-27.html #533
Turkey box http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-build-logs/22083-chuck-ryans-rcr-build-28.html #544
Engine bay heat http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-build-logs/22083-chuck-ryans-rcr-build-34.html #672 and continue down the page,
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-build-logs/22083-chuck-ryans-rcr-build-35.html #685 and
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-build-logs/22083-chuck-ryans-rcr-build-44.html #864

This should keep you busy for a while

Thanks Bill.
I'm installing a fuel injection system from Eight stack. They are a pretty good copy of weber carbs.

This info you sent helps a ton.

Thanks Bill.
I'm installing a fuel injection system from Eight stack. They are a pretty good copy of weber carbs.

This info you sent helps a ton.