A little help here please !

I'm studying the layout of all the system lines and hoses that are in the RF GT40. I was wondering if there maybe a reason why none of the hoses are in the center tunnel. Is it because if they need to be replaced it would be difficult to remove. I can change that by making the tunnel removable. Maybe it's because they think the heat off of the water lines would be bad for the AC lines. I plan on wrapping the water lines with a thin insulation barrier. Any other ideas as to why please post them.

Thanks
Hersh
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Mine go down the drivers side, er left side for you Bob, on the CAV. I am just a few pieces away from dropping the motor in the car.
 

Ron Earp

Admin
Hershal,

I'm not sure why they couldn't go though the center tunnel, but heat is the only reason I could think of. To combat that you can wrap them, and make a divider in the center tunnel such as:

------
| AC |
|----|
| H2O|
|____|

Or something similar. The front piece of the tunnel with the three inch radius might not handle that, so just make a slightly larger one.
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hershal,

In the Sabre (cum KVA) the H2O lines are in the tunnel, while the A/C lines are in the 1.5" square tube of the framing for the bottome of the tunnel. To remove the H20 lines one needs only to remove the radiator and they will pull straight out the front. I wrapped mine with closed cell foam and hight temp tape. The tape was to toughen them up and to close the slit that was in the foam. The foam is supposed to be able to handle 250 degrees; we'll see how it stands up.
 
Thanks Guys,
I have been staring at this set up for too long now. It's gonna be down the center.
Also I have to move the emergency brake handle over to the left just inside the door between the seat and sill. I am going to use a Fiero type brake handle. This is a neat little handle. When the brake is set you can push the button down and that allows the handle to return to the down position while the brake stays applied. This way you can get out without catching the family jewels on the handle.
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To release the brake you simply pick up the handle and reset the button that releases the cable. This system is used by ERA.

Hersh
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G

Guest

Guest
I agree with you too. Thats the brake handle I have in my Ferrari and is the one that comes with the ERA GT-40.

Enzo
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hey Hersh! I know what you are thinking. Everything down the middle and forget about the two or three inches that is taken up on the side. If you did this you will have more room around the seats or you could make the tunnel a little larger but I would center the console in the center.
 
Bob,
I'm still doing some head scratching on this. I am sure it will work. The tunnel will be made little bigger to make room for the extra hoses. Also I have rerouted the brake lines by going through the frame supports. I have it so if I do have to replace a line I can feed it out the the rear and feed in a new one. I dought that it will ever happen . The next thing I have to think about is the speedo cable and where to run it.

Hersh
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G

Guest

Guest
Hershel,
Robert mentioned that guys in Australia have run everything down the middle. I didn't get the impression that he was overly impressed or against it other than you need to make the tunnel removeable. You will also need to think about the A/C lines and how they will enter the tunnel. You could exit the tunnel inside the car behind the seat so that you can enter the engine compartment in the right place.
 

Peter Delaney

GT40s Supporter
Hersh,

I have seen a couple of cars with all pipes running down the centre tunnel & the owners report no real problems except condensation from the A/C pipes.

I am planning to do the same, but have found some wizard insulation for the A/C pipes - high density foam with a "zip lock" joint (like a re-sealable plactic bag) running the length of it. This should sort out the condensation problem (I hope !).

Rather than bring the heater pipes up the tunnel from the water pump, I have welded 13mm stubs onto the front of the S/S radiator pipes (just as they leave the front of the tunnel) at 45 degrees facing forward. In theory, water running forward should branch into the i/c heater pipe & be sucked out the o/g pipe. If the water flow is insufficient, I'll install an in-line booster pump.

After trying all manner of ideas for bracing the pipes in the tunnel, I finally decided that it would be easier to make the tunnel easily removeable - this way I can secure the pipes to the floor at a couple of points down the run & then just slip the tunnel cover over the lot (with a bit of padding).
 
Thanks Peter !
Sounds like a good plan. I have already made my tunnel and I did make it removable.
Keep me posted on anything else you might find out while doing this.

Hersh
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G

Guest

Guest
Hershel, I thought you were taking the weekend off? On the Roaring Forties you don't run heater pipes to the water pump. As the guy above mentions the heater conection come off the front of the main coolant pipes. You will see the conections on them. Because of this it is a good idea to get a water pump with screw in conections so that you can cap them off.
 

Ron Earp

Admin
Bob,

What water pump did you use, make model and serial number?

I'm getting frustrated at trying to get the correct water pump for this thing. The folks I call don't know squat about what they're selling and can't even tell me if there are screw in connections or not.

Do you have screw in connections, and, who made that thing? Thanks,

Ron
 
G

Guest

Guest
My water pump is from Ford Motor Sports along with the timing cover. Just ask for the standard rotation pump for V belts. This pump has a back plate. Your old timing cover that I saw was an earlier style that used a pump with no back cover. By the way I asked Robert if his guys could make a water pump pulley for the Short Ford Motor Sports pump. With this pump you won't need to have the hump in the engine cover. I haven't heard back from Robert yet. He said the short Ford pump is ideal but and he has one for measurements. they didn't use the short pump in Australia because some jerk there wants $400 a pump. RF uses custom made pulleys to line up with the A/C compressor and alternator, so you can't just use the Short pump with the Ford pulley designed for it. If I can get a pulley you can have my pump unless you want to do the same thing.
 
ERA recommends and sells a "Snow White"
water pump, especially if you have AC.
Bob Putnam - can you provide some info about
the Snow White? Is it an ERA exclusive?

Ian
 
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