Accusump Question

What pressure switch should I get when using the "EPC" electric valve on an LS7 based engine (wet sump). Canton offers 25-30lb, 25-40lb and a 60-ish pound switch. Any advice in this area would be appreciated. Car will be mostly street with some track events.

Thanks
 
I don't have one, but knowing the oil pressure on these engines, I would assume you'd want it to discharge at the lowest oil pressure point, since hot oil pressure can run as low as the low 20's at idle.

That means the 20-25 PSI setting, If I understand the meaning of the rating on the valve.

Using a higher setting would mean that the Accusump would discharge more often than you need, and may be empty when you need it most.

But why not call the Canton folks and ask them? I'm sure their tech guys have had this question before.
 
I think you want to talk with your engine builder - it's not a stock LS7 obviously, and normal operating pressure can run quite high in them. When my built LS7 is cold, it runs 90 psi. Haven't gotten it really warm yet, but I'm guessing it doesn't go much below 50 psi.
 
So I worked out the switch question. Ordered up the unit...stuffed it in the chassis, laid out the best routing for the plumbing, bought all the fittings......then came the realization that the fittings take up too much space to fit it all in the desired location. The run from the bottom of the tank to the entry into the remote oil filter housing can take no more than 14 inches. This leaves no space to actually connect the fittings with braided hoses. It's pretty much non-stop fittings.

I have seen a few on this site make the AC system plumbing out of copper tubing, utilizing components normally seen in home water systems. An approach such as this or some variation would eliminate most of these fittings and make the overall length much shorter.

So here is my question
If I wanted to make the connections using a tubing solution (possibly similar to what we all do with water system vent lines) - What material should be used? Of course it would be a much larger diameter tube as the oil system is -10. It would also take a serious tubing bender and flair tool to make the tube segments.
Or could one actually make this work using simple copper solder together fittings?

Regardless, the run from the engine side of the filter housing will be - 10 braided line.

Thoughts, comments and recommendations appreciated.
Thanks,
Rob
 

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Rob,
Instead of using the most direct route between Accusump and filter can you go a different direction and then back to the filter to allow space for all the fittings? Do you have an oil cooler also? I wouldn't worry about keeping lines at an absolute minimum length. I have -12 lines and probably 8 feet of line between Accusump, cooler, and filter. Works fine for track days.
 
Hi Dave,
My problem is a space issue, the cleanest most efficient way is this picture. After that I start using up valuable engine room.

thanks for the thought
Rob

PS No oil cooler at this time.
 
Rob-
Can you rotate your fittings coming out of the sump between 90 and 180 degrees and bring your hose up along the left side? If so, a possible routing might be to run your hose up to the top, through a 180* bend down into the valve and out of the valve into a male by male elbow screwed directly into the remote filter.
 
Yes Dave - at the filter.

John - The tank sits in the far left corner of the space, there are frame members directly the left of the tank.
 
We used to have an Accusump fitted to my Cobra when we raced it (before the dry sump). I mounted a remote air pressure guage on the dash board so i could see when it was actuall in use, you could use this to guage what pressure to set the system at.
 
Rob,
Can use replace the top two fittings with one 90 degree male NPT fitting? Or replace the straight NPT fitting and the 90 degree AN fitting at the bottom with a NPT-male AN fitting and a 90 degree double AN female fitting? Either would shorten up your plumbing and eliminate one hose piece. It is hard to tell your spatial limitations without seeing your engine bay.
 
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Howard Jones

Supporter
If we needed to make these out of a hard line. What material would be accepted race car practice. ALuminum, Stainless steel, copper, other? For that matter what material would you guys recomend to run oil in a hard line to and from a cooler for instance.

What do the Porsche guys use to route oil to the cooler in the nose of their cars form the engine room at the back of the car? My guess is aluminum but I worry about work hardening and cracking.

Help! Anybody, Jac? You know a lot of stuff. What do you think?
 
On Porsches, I believe the stock lines are anadized aluminum, run outside along the right longitudinals. The racers will typically run braided stainless lines in the same locatation, or through the cabin on the passenger side floor.
 

Seymour Snerd

Lifetime Supporter
If we needed to make these out of a hard line. What material would be accepted race car practice. ALuminum, Stainless steel, copper, other? For that matter what material would you guys recomend to run oil in a hard line to and from a cooler for instance.
I standardized on full-soft stainless partly on the basis that it is rated for single flares whereas aluminum (at least in some sizes) is supposed to be double flared, or so they say in the aircraft world. Also more resistant to dents from dropped tools, scratches on the flare surface, etc. And no corrosion.
 
On remote mounted [ Dry Sump [email protected] one end/[email protected] other of car ] I use 2.5mm/3.0mm wall alloy tube with either a barb or AN fitting machined/welded on, remember these lines are not under any significant pressure though. I dont use Air/Oil Coolers if possible, that means the water/oil exchanger cam be mounted close to the Water Pump intake & after all these years have come to the conclusion that if you need an accusump you really need a dry sump setup at this point in time. Not sure who had an extruded alloy product, finned hard line that was threaded @ each end for AN fittings, it looked ideal to act as a cooler as well if you can get some airflow around it. In the engine bay its hard to beat flexible hose lines though.

EDIT, found finned aluminum cooling line, might be available from Earl's.. its -12, threaded 3/4" npt @ both ends, slot milled/extruded to fit over bolt head for simple mount & 4 foot long, approx 1.75" OD of fin's..
 
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Gentlemen
To close the loop on this, a local hydraulics house was able to piece together the proper length fittings and hardline to get this assembly into the car in the desired location. Although it is hard to tell, there is plenty of room for the oil filter to be removed from the space.

Thanks all for the suggestions.
 

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