Alans Scratch build

Brian Kissel

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That is not a tubing bender. It is a pipe bender as can be read in your first picture. And from their website Bends 1/2 in. to 3 in. wide schedule 40 and 80 steel pipe . Pipe bends much different than tubing. A true tubing bender that is designed to bend cages and frame work costs much more than $140.00.

Regards Brian
 
That is not a tubing bender. It is a pipe bender as can be read in your first picture. And from their website Bends 1/2 in. to 3 in. wide schedule 40 and 80 steel pipe . Pipe bends much different than tubing. A true tubing bender that is designed to bend cages and frame work costs much more than $140.00.

Regards Brian
That is not a tubing bender. It is a pipe bender as can be read in your first picture. And from their website Bends 1/2 in. to 3 in. wide schedule 40 and 80 steel pipe . Pipe bends much different than tubing. A true tubing bender that is designed to bend cages and frame work costs much more than $140.00.

Regards Brian
Hi Brian how are you doing, yes a true tube bender would have been great. The Harbor freight bender is junk. The die needs to be modified for it to work. I must have called 5 shops to get my roll bar bent. No one would bend one out here in Calif. Any way the harbor freight did a nice even bend. The tube i used was DOM 1.50" X .120 wall
 

Brian Kissel

Staff member
Moderator
Lifetime Supporter
Doing well, Thank You for asking. It’s hard to imagine, that shops don’t want your money to bend some tubing. I live in the middle of nowhere, with the closest town having a population of about 650 people. I can think of at least 4 chassis builders within 15 miles of me that have true tubing benders. I guess I’m lucky( or spoiled) in that respect .
Carry on you are doing very nice work.

Regards Brian
 
Follow up I tried some pipe and it bent it pretty good so as a pipe bender the Harbor freight works, if you want to bend tube your best bet is as Brian suggested a tube bender, That is the ticket.
 
Doing well, Thank You for asking. It’s hard to imagine, that shops don’t want your money to bend some tubing. I live in the middle of nowhere, with the closest town having a population of about 650 people. I can think of at least 4 chassis builders within 15 miles of me that have true tubing benders. I guess I’m lucky( or spoiled) in that respect .
Carry on you are doing very nice work.

Regards Brian
And I want to thank you for all your good advice, it has really helped with building the car. All the good shops are moving to Texas.
 
Look for off-road or 4x4 fab shops. I had my roll cage tubing bent by one and they did a great job.
Good advice, I was contacting higher end manufacturing company's. I got the roll bar bent, installed. I am not sure if i should do a full cage. The plan is get car street legal if that is possible. Maybe take it to the track??
 
GT 40 Fun
I have to take back all the bad things i said about the Harbor Freight pipe bender, It earned its keep. I got a perfect bend to match the spider. Bent 1.00 all the way around. You have to bend in steps. I used marks say A B C D E F and made small bends. Count your pumps on the bender. I did 1.5 to 5 pumps. If you go over you have to start over. Also I want to share my door latch that I got for $37.00 for two. They open very easy and snap shut without a lot of force. here is the link to them.

Large Bear Jaw Latches Car Door Claw Lock Street Hot Rod Latches NEW Locking
Total: $37.46
Order number: 11-06954-07594
Item ID: 310857973114
Seller: gearheadworld
 

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GT 40 FUN
Machined a set of Clam shell hold down pin locks, taping a 1/4 20 thread to match back bushing. Got the door handle to latch and un latch nicely. Also started some body work. Using Evercoat Glass-Lite and I like it sands real easy. I think a heavy coat of primer and block sanding may get it, maybe not ?????
 

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GT 40 FUN
Spent 4 hours trying to get my CNC program to load on the Hardinge, I gave up and went to the old Superslant.
Machined the front clam shell (hood) parts with a locking pin to hold it from sliding off. Had to hold it to .005 to pin and support.
There is no play at all. Good to go. Mounted the radiator also. Next step is making Hartwell Latches. If any one has drawings photos that would be fantastic
 

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Really like the pin idea, top job!
I think it will work, I added a bit of cam offset so when the Clam shell is fully closed the pin apply pressure to the .187 pin and flexes it about .010 and that drives it into the aluminum receiver. 1.200 dia pin into 1.210 receiver to lock it very tight. When Clam shell is open the pin is about .005 from .187 pin for removal and Clam shell removal.
 
GT 40 FUN
Machined a set of Clam shell hold down pin locks, taping a 1/4 20 thread to match back bushing. Got the door handle to latch and un latch nicely. Also started some body work. Using Evercoat Glass-Lite and I like it sands real easy. I think a heavy coat of primer and block sanding may get it, maybe not ?????
GT 40 FUN
Spent the day making more hardware. The rear clam shell may not hold perfect with just a set of Hartwell latches. So I made 6 locating pins from 17-4 stainless. each pin locates the front and rear lower fiberglass. The Hartwell latch will apply pressure to hold clam shell down and the pins wont let it move around. There are 4 in the rear and 2 in the front. Getting ready to glue the body panels together. A one shot deal.
 

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Gt 40 fun
Finally got the last door epoxy bonded, I used Panel Bond 45. I take 45 min to set. To hold the fiberglass panels in place and with a close gap i drilled holes and used spacers at different points. Then I closed the door in correct position and with the best alignment. I will wait till tomorrow to take out screws. (dry wall screws). The hard part is done. I guess I have about 450 to 500 hours in this build.
 

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GT 40 FUN
I was out for 2 weeks with a weird sore throat and slight fever, probably just a summer cold.
Back on the car and the easy part body work . So I used fiberglass mat on area that needed strength. I am sold on Evercoat products, they have a Glass-Lite (green) and that is a really easy sand able fiberglass short strand filler. For body filler I used Evercoat Ultra filler premium. That filler sands easy and does not load up the sand paper. Filler was applied and then sanded with 60 grit using Dura-Block sanding blocks. Then a guide coat was sprayed on followed by block sanding 80 grit the 100 grit. The guide coat will show low spots. after every thing is straight then 150 220 grit followed by 2 k primer. and more block sanding.
 

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GT 40 FUN
Setting up the shocks. I am using Aldan American shocks with adjustable damping. Since I am using C5 Corvette parts the shock has a 500 pound spring. I need to get maybe 350 pounds springs. What do you guys Think ?
The reason I chose Corvette is it is very easy to adapt to the GT. Corvette suspension is has great handling. The Large diameters brake disc do not get as hot as the GT 40 set up. Less problems. Next is the steering rack. I ordered one from Summit Racing.
 

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GT 40 FUN
Building the rear suspension, setting the Camber at Zero. I used a 2.5 x 1.5 tube clamped to the bottom of the frame and a Tee square to eyeball the camber at zero. (Ballpark) hope fully the adjustment in lower control arm is enough to dial it in. Also I had to move the wheel forward 1/2 inch to get nice center in wheel well. The CV joint needs to be adapted to the 996 Trans and the 351 W block needs to be adapted to the 996 Trans. I have to go to Pick a part and find an old 351W roller block and wrench it out. It must have a specific casting number to build the 427 Stroker. I will have a recipt for the motor to show the DMV.
 

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