Antifreeze

[Paul Williams]

Another question guys can anyone advise me on what antifreeze to put in my 1991 GTD 5 litre Ford

Thanks Paul

 

[Randy V]

Another question guys can anyone advise me on what antifreeze to put in my 1991 GTD 5 litre Ford

Thanks Paul

I prefer and advise a good quality Ethylene Glycol mixed 50/50 with water.

 

[George]

I have been using the Evans waterless coolant in the Miami heat with air conditioning and no issues.

 

[Ed McClements]

As you most likely have a mixture of iron and aluminium parts in your cooling system, I would be using OAT red antifreeze to reduce the likelihood of corrosion caused by dissimilar metals. Have a look for Comma SLA5L; should be widely available.

 

[Bill Kearley]

5 year red stuff ( For Diesel engines ). Best for dissimilar metals.

 

[Steve]

I've used Evans with no regrets. It's a bit pricier but I think you'd be hard pressed to find a coolant that will outperform it. It also doesn't need to be changed.

Preventing Electrolysis | Evans Waterless Coolant

Evans Waterless Coolant prevents electrolysis, which preserves your engine.

www.evanscoolant.com

How Evans Prevents Water-Caused Corrosion | Evans Waterless Coolant

Evans Waterless Coolant prevents boiling, engine corrosion, and electrolysis by removing water from the engine cooling system.

www.evanscoolant.com

 

[Neil]

Evans coolant is propylene glycol; it is not totally "waterless". Plain water is a more efficient coolant but it has no corrosion inhibitors.

 

[Bill Kearley]

Neil, I think plain water has more surface tension thus poor heat transfer abilities and cavitates easier than a higher density antifreeze mix. Cavitation burn is deadly!

 

[Neil]

Viscosity?

 

[Jim Rosenthal]

I recall reading that 50/50 actually cools better than plain water. AND plain water does not protect against electrolysis. Since aluminum is below iron on the galvanic scale, your expensive aluminum heads will suffer from their proximity to the iron engine block.

In my marine diesels, I run the long-life 50/50 coolant- they are exposed to brackish water in the heat exchangers in addition to being in a sal environment. Although I think it's blue, not red. In my GT40, distilled water and ethylene glycol AF

 

[Bill Kearley]

Any proper long life will meet all your expectations. I went with diesel type because it is ment for engines with a combination of metals and have been using it for 40 plus years without an issue.

 

[Howard Jones]

I use 75% distilled water and 25% Prestone AF2000 concentrate in my SLC track car and 50/50 same ingredients in my road cars including my GT40. You can buy distilled water for about a buck a gallon at grocery stores in the baby food section (used to mix formula). Distilled water is a good idea and it will not cause as many mineral deposits in the coolant system.

I would not recommend straight water in a system that is being left full of coolant when not in use. An iron block will rust and mixed metals will also corrode. If you have a racecar that is drained completely as regular maintenance then straight distilled water is really the most efficient coolant in a properly designed system.

The lower amount of antifreeze in the track car is to avoid a difficult track cleanup if I spring a leak and I think it is slightly more efficient than 50/50 as a coolant. Some events require straight water for this reason. The premixed, ready to add, antifreeze is easiest but I am not sure if they use distilled water as a mix. I think all the name brands are pretty much the same and all meet the various auto manufacturers ' requirements.

 

[Ian Anderson]

Howard,
are you getting distilled water or deionised water?
I would imagine deionised.

check the pH before you use it, sometimes can be on the acidic level or neutral

ian

 

[Craig]

You might want to consider Evans Waterless....I love it !!!

 

[Howard Jones]

Good question Ian, I believe that the actual acidity is so low that it isn't a factor. Furthermore, the benefit of removing the minerals outweighs this. Add the very low cost and ease of procurement of distilled water and I believe that its a very good idea. Deionized water also absorbs Co2 when exposed to the atmosphere and in most cases reaches the same Ph values as distilled water. Keeping either container closed until use will minimize this effect.

http://www.stuart-equipment.com/adminimages/t11_001_ph_of_distilled_water.pdf

How to keep the pH of Deionized water 7?

I prepared deionized water through deionizer, but unfortunately the pH dropped to 5. Now how can i resume the pH to 7, to use this water in PCR and other solutions preparation?

www.researchgate.net

.

 

[Tom]

Following up on this thread, I'm due to change out my OAT fluid. Is there any real benefit to using Evans, aside from the service life? I may have read somewhere that cars with long coolant runs like ours are more apt to cavitate at the water pump and boil fluid in the heads. On the other side, these cars have lots of junctions (7 on mine, including the heater loop), and I understand Evans is more apt to weep/leak at the junctions. I'm somewhat leaning towards using one of the new gen HOAT fluids, such as Pentofrost E or G12++ (if I can find it) after doing a full flush, as I understand silicates are actually beneficial to reducing erosion/pitting in aluminum parts.

 

[Craig]

I can only tell you my experience...my Noble M400 has had Evans in it for at least 4 years. I have only put 5,000 miles on It in that period, but it has ALL aluminum engine (Duratec). I have added a total of 5 oz. of coolant in that period. No obvious weeping or leak. Driven hard at times, but no track days.