AP mk1 twin turbo

Brian

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66"

It's about 1" short from the back of the side fuel tank covers and 2" short on the front.

At that 66" there is an angled tube back to the bottom of the inner sill and a horizontal back to the top inner sill.

From the high picture, you can see the back of the side is plumb, and the front is angled.

THe extra inch gives clearance to conceal the tube.
 

Brian

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Started trying to put together my engine and ran into a few incompatibilities,

The Man-O-War block has the bosses drilled for the spider, but not the clearance for the dog bones, so I need to buy different (link bar) lifters.

The timing set requires modifying the cam thrust plate to use counter set bolts, so I can't close up the front of the engine.

The block docs call for Moroso Chevy oil restrictors, no mention on when or why, and the Moroso docs say NOT to use them with hydraulic lifters. Need to research this because I am running Hydraulic rollers.

But I did check the cam degrees, and it's spot on, and took the opportunity to get some glamour shots.
 

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Brian

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It's a constant wait on engine parts.

Lifter situation is sorted, and the cam fully installed. I had to surface grind the thrust plate to get .007" endplay. It had zero.

Heads are on but I'm waiting on an adjustable pushrod to get the optimum length.

So I'm piddling with other fussy bits. My novel 180 degree, 2 separate header setup (without slip joints) takes a bit of work. I have a tube layout where all of the L bank goes to the top flange, and the R to the bottom (or vise versa, reversing the rotation direction) and the collector on the L and R each get a circular patern firing order, rotating in opposite directions. AND I have 2 independent headers with formed stainless dimple gaskets, so no leaks with turbo backpressure. I made a die for my Cobra to make these type gaskets from 20ga 304.

I need a heavier and bigger brake for .125 aluminum 4'+ long, so I'm making one. I'll get some round stock to make the die with, welded to the 2 tubes.
 

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Brian

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Valve train is in and I'm making accessory brackets. Still waiting on a transaxle.

The pushrod tips were given a drop of assembly lube, and I'll pour a quart of oil on the rocker's pivots and tips before I start it.

For the alternator, I'm using a GM and the bracket has one bolt to the head, 2 to the water pump at the port, and with a machined doweled spacer to the bottom of the timing cover.

The front compressor bracket will have 3 bolts on the head to 2 of the back ears, and the front will catch 2-3 of the waterpump bolts to 2 front ears with enough back and forth flex to not bind anything. The top tensioner/idler might be integrated with the front bracket. Not sure yet until I have the compressor hanging as it will.
 

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Randy V

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Looking good.
Just make sure whoever is building your headers is aware that you are using port adapters (or are those header flanges?) on raised port cylinder heads..
 

Brian

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I'm doing my own headers, and those are flanges, but not the ones I'm using. I have some with only the larger bolt pattern and squared up ports that will be easier to mate to the tubes.
 

Brian

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While I was waiting on parts, I had the 3D printer spitting out pieces. I printed a half flange, straight and 45's of the 2 radius bends Stainless Bros sell in 321. The straight pieces can be cut to length, and they all fit together with a little friction so you can play with the design before cutting up stainless.

None of this is anywhere near final design. Just showing off my printed legos. I need to cad up some 15 deg and 20 degree. If I went much more than 45 degree I would need support and I didn't want to have to clean that up or waste the filament.
 

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Brian

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The intake manifold as it sits is not going to work. If I face the intake rearward, the length and slight downward angle of the throttle body will be in my precious bundle of snake's real estate. If I try to face it forward, it's way too long and will be way inside the cockpit. So I'm fabbing a new top, much shorter and and angled downward much more so the throttle body to the TEE to each intercooler will not intrude into the cockpit... or at least only to an acceptable amount.

I'm also working on a crossmember and motor mount assembly, and when I've finished it today, I'll roll the engine back right side up and bolt the water pump on for good and finish up the accessory brackets.

My tig welder doesn't have the stones to weld 1/4" aluminum base plate for the new manifold, so I need to hook up my spool gun and get a little practice in on it. I think I could do prettier mig welds than tig anyway.
 

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Randy V

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You can always preheat the area with a propane or MAP gas torch.. That does make it a bit less of a user friendly environment to weld in, however…
 

Brian

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Camera didn't take a very good pic. Sort of soft focused it like they do to hide Tulsi Gabbard's pock marks.

That's sort of what I did. I long arced the 1/4 for a few seconds before I got down on it. I had my little beginers Hobart eazy tig cranked up to 11. I've never had the fan run so long after I've stopped welding.

Welding the 90's and tee straight to the throttle, and this fabbed intake bought be about 5" I think I can live with this.
 

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Brian

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I'm pleased. I still have to clean up the edges and I may go ahead and polish it. At least brush it all.
 

Neil

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"Camera didn't take a very good pic. Sort of soft focused it like they do to hide Tulsi Gabbard's pock marks."

Politics???
 

Brian

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I put a granite top on the little cabinet for my lathe tools. I used it and some adhesive backed tape to lap it flat. Where the sand paper marks were, I kisses with a flap wheel on the grinder, then lapped some more until I had sand paper marks on all of the gasket surface.

Lots of aluminum powder.
 

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Brian

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Jumping around, I started messing with my power steering plans. I had the motor and module, but thought it might be nice to have all of the splined bits and a second motor so if this thing went south I would have a spare before they became scarce.

It turns out, I may use most of this column, ditching the dated looking wiper controls, turn signal switch and ignition key. It all bolts on.

There's a dude in Portugal that sells a module that generated the pulse train that tells the EPS how much assist to give. It includes a potentiometer that adjusts it.

Looks like mounting it with the adjustable height will be a breeze. This will also give a collapsible column.
 

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