Bad-Ass Engines


YES! I nearly bought an engine from him, the only reason I didn't was the "pond".i.e distance etc.

Nice guy, really good prices. and honest!


Thanks, JP

I think I will go with him. He has been totally receptive to chassis dynoing the motor.
Thanks, JP

I think I will go with him. He has been totally receptive to chassis dynoing the motor.

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HOLD IT!!!!!!

I just saw this post....... I've had one of his engines..... You should call me at the shop 847-304-4480 tomorrow.

I don't have the time to post up all the details here....way too much typing but I just saved you a lot of pain.

Hi Archie,

Please post what has been your experience (good or bad). There are couple of other guys who may also be interested in your particular cituation and thinking of buying from this vendor.
As an example I have an FMS 345HP crate motor that is crap but I would not say every single one of them is so.

Hi guy's, no disrespect to this fellow.

I have always had Fersthand Automotive of Fort Worth custom build motors for me. Great experience, and I can count on him.

This last CAV project, I went with Keith Craft.

His website is:

Take a look at the econo motor for $5,295. You get a lot of nice parts and he runs a first class machine shop. He does all the important stuff: Machines deck height, bore & hone the bores and crank centerline. My 'econo' setup that I paid $5,150 for is (was on his website) rated by Keith for 425 HP at the crank. Based one other stroker I have dynoed, it was putting out 350HP & 350 FP of torque at the rear wheels. That equates to 425 HP; less a 18% drivetrain loss; or 348 HP. I am running a Holly Avenger 670 and a FORD Motorsport aluminum intake. Nothing fancy.

When I have +/- 500 miles on it, I will have it dynoed & report back. Yeah, I know this motor does not have the forged crank, but so what, it has never been a problem for me. The rods in the motor are basically BOSS 302 rods, but a bit nicer. The pistons are first rate.

My .02 cents, go with the econo motor and spend the difference elsewhere.

Coast High also does nice parts complete motors as well.
Tom, Arron at "Bad-Ass" had good words for Kieth Craft and other guys. I considered going the keith Craft as well.

It would be great If you report back with your chassis Dyno results when the engine brake-in period is done.

I have been in contact with Ron and there might be a section created on this forum for REAR WHEEL Dyno tests. We can add your numbers when you get them.
Hi Archie,

Please post what has been your experience (good or bad). There are couple of other guys who may also be interested in your particular cituation and thinking of buying from this vendor.
As an example I have an FMS 345HP crate motor that is crap but I would not say every single one of them is so.


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As I said before I really don't have time to post up all the EMails & my notes from phone calls with this guy but, let me assure you my experience was bad.

He talked a great game and was a real nice guy until We actually tried to run the engine. Then things went South.

I'll give you a brief rundown.

I recently had a Customer from Calefornie
He had Me install an engine in his Fiero
He bought an engine from some bad ass weenie
When We started it up, it wouldn't go

500+ HP is what He wanted
Needed it to handle NOS & Be injected
Bad Ass said, "We can do that, dun it a million times"
Customer swallows story, hook, line & sinker, Sends all his Nickles & Dimes

Engine, Customer & car all arrive at Archie's door
Archie & crew get car up in the air & do the full swap pretty as all get out
After about 100 hours of work, it's sitting back on the floor
Set all the perimeters & fire it up, now we have a reason to pout

Engine won't run below 1800 RPM
Vacuum is only 6 inches, We suspect the Cam
I call Bad Ass & He answers on 1st Ring
He tells me how experienced He is & that We did something wrong 'cus it should be running.

I did get the Comp Cams part number from him, that's a good thing
Because on my subsequent calls to him the phone would just ring & ring
Called Comp Cams & talked to the Tech guy
He confirmed that cam would never work with injection, No lie

Bad Ass guy, while avoiding my call
Is sending me large EMails telling me how good he is and all
Customer is running out of money, living in a Hotel while Bad Ass is stalling
The U-Haul trailer He rented is now 10 days overdue, the athorities will be visiting

Finally Bad Ass orders the Cam, that I was told would work with TPI
overnite shipping on the Cam turns into 3 days, oh my
Bad Ass says He'll cover half of the extra labor
Now 10 days later, We're taking it apart all over

My guys work 14 hours a day
Hoping to get this poor customer on his way
Car is running very well once we get it back on the Floor
It doesn't make nearly as much HP as the customer paid for
Customer has to get home & takes it out the door

Needless to say
Bad Ass never did pay

Thanks, Archie and Mark for posting,,,,specially Archie for detailing what went on with him and his customer.

I had already signed on the dotted line when your posts were made. So it is a matter of wait and see. Hopefully I will report good results.

You all know my fiasco with Ford Motor Sports crate motor. Maybe being local (he is 45 minutes from my house), my experience would be different. I found the guy to be genuine and honest, time will tell If I was wrong or right.

There is one thing you can be sure of, I will Chassis Dyno the motor and post the results. Just as I did on my pathetic FMS motor. He has encouraged me to do the chassis dyno, so time will tell.

Howard Jones

Fred, hang on to your old SVO motor for a little while. If you are happy with the BA motor in the end then lets talk about the SVO motor before you sell it.
That engine is probably just in need of a better cam and valve springs to wake it up. Some of these engines just crap out at about 5000/5500 rpms because the valves float.
Howy, I just pulled the valve covers,,,the heads are X302. To be honest with you I probably have to get rid of this motor with-in a month or two. I have a one car garage with two cars in it!!!! I also need the cash to pay for the other motor.

Bud, how are you doing? When are you coming to visit?

I am sure this motor will make someone happy (it just won't be me /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif). I pulled the valve covers and every thing still looks new. I am sure with a better cam, springs, felpro gaskets and some minor porting it will finally put out.
Faili: Hi

Be careful when anyone advises dyno-testing a new engine.
It is good to dyno tune a new engine, and it is good to run a new engine on a dyno at moderate and varied rpm... but it is NOT good to test the max horsepower.
All engines need to be bedded in (run in)as all moving parts need to be bedded in to make good contact (blue printing).
This is best done over at least 1,000 miles of steady running for all the moving parts, even brakes etc.

We can be victims when it comes to sharp practice or ignorance on engines.

John Place
John, I have to respectfully disagree with you. Yes, a roller cam needs to be carefully broken in (this should take about 20 minutes), and care must be taken to vary the engine rpm during break in, but I've seen too many dedicated race engines broken in on a dyno to believe in the 1,000-mile rule. While I'm certainly no expert, most of what I've read says that once the cam has been run in, the best way to seat the piston rings is to generate high cylinder pressure by doing a few top-end pulls under load.
Yes, my engine was dyno tuned. The cam was bed in at about 3000RPM for a good 20mins or so.

Then it was given some death. i.e 7000RPM pulls.

This is standard practice.
I have to agree with mark and JP. Arron at Bad-Ass is building my engine now and he had indicated that after the 20 minutes initial brake in and the subsequent tweaks, the motor can and should be “loaded up”!

Besides, the whole reason for building this motor was to brake half shafts and CV joints (hopefuly not the trany)!!
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
J.P & Mark;

It is a subject with many,many opinions. As an engine designer and having built many I still believe that the main and conn-rod bearings I see still are not well "mated" and mating bearing surface areas increase dramatically with some "running in". Auto builders cannot advise anyone to run-in a car or they will not sell them. So it's everyone to their own plan, because we all have to pay for the consequences, not the engine seller or builder.
Good luck.

Fair point John. BUT my engine was built by Dave Millam, he's built countless V8 engines. And many funny car engines with 2500BHP!!

I'll take his word, and vast experience. I've said this before - I don't expect to get much mileage from this engine block, so it makes little odds to me.