Most of the tubing has a 1.6 mm wall thickness, except for the members to which suspension brackets and damper mounts are welded, and the members around the engine adaptor plate, where I used 2 mm wall thickness. Tubing is mostly 25 mm and 19 mm square and round, with a few pieces in 50 x 25 and 38 x 19 mm.
Hi all - Recently I have forwarded instructions to help a few other forum members post pictures and it was suggested I post them here for others, so if it helps you - great. It's a bit 'long winded' so if you already post pics - please ignore. ****************************** POSTING PICTURE...
As is obvious I havent been posting many pictures, let me try and remedy that by showing some details of things that took up so much time.
Steering column and pedal box.
One of the challenges on a scratch build mid-engine chassis is packaging the pedals, steering column and rack, front suspension and your feet that all want to be in the same space. I decided to go with top hung pedals, as I want the seats to be formed in the centro section of the chassis mono style and that necessitated a movable pedal box. Top mounting means some structure is required and although I try to keep things simple they always seem to run away with me. The steering column was made up from various Toyota Corolla and Hiace parts, and mated to the Ford Cortina steering rack. The Toyota parts give a nice sliding section for length adjustabity and deflection case of an accident. I also built in some up and down adjustment for the steersmen wheel position. Hopefully the photos will explain.
It’s been a long time since I posted, but I have been making good (if slow) progress on my project. I have yet to find a convenient way to download photos from my phone, configure and upload them suitable for posting and as I’m trying to spend every bit of free time I have in the garage working on the project my posting has suffered.
I’m now well advanced with a dry build, things accomplished since I last posted:
All wishbones made up.
Drive shafts made.
Engine cooling fitted and plumbed - Radiator, header tank, swirl pot, electric water pump mounted. 38 mm dia piping made up in aluminium and stainless steel and mounted in aluminum brackets.
Brake and clutch hydraulics run in flex braided right through.
Handbrake cables made and run.
Fuel tanks (2 off Left and right, and centre consolidation tank) made and mounted.
Fuel system pre filter, pump, regulator, post filter, connection valves, plumbed in -8 and -6 braided hose with AN fittings.
Oil cooler, thermostat, remote filter mounted and plumbed in hydraulic hose and BSP fittings.
Gearshift finalized (still mock up parts) and cables made and run.
All above systems require mounting brackets and pipes / cables securing with P clips. I don’t like to rivet on P clips so have added a lot of brackets to bolt to. Where brackets will be inaccessible once the chassis is panelled weld nuts are required to the back of the brackets.
Exhaust silencers mounted.
Body fit: Scuttle fit finalized.
All nose mounting points made and fitted.
Current focus is:
Making up accelerator pedal, carb linkage and cable.
Finalize tail mounting hinges and latches detail.
Door mounting hinges and latches parts being made.
Anti-roll bar parts being made (design and mounting is complete).
Once the above is done the only remaining system to fit and make brackets for is the full electrical and dashboard.
Then strip, paint chassis and the various subframes and then do final build. First step will be to panel the chassis.
I do intend to document and share the final build.
I have now 99 percent completed the dry build, the wiring is mostly laid in and the dash mocked up (real one still to be cut in one piece ). I splashed out on a set of Stack gauges.
Last week I had all 4 wheels on for the first time ever and I weighed the car as it stands now (excluding chassis and cockpit skin paneling, fluids, anti roll bars and seat belts). I'm still under 800 kg (1760 lbs) which I am happy about.