I just aquired a set of 1 generation CAV uprights and am in search of the rest of the parts to complete the hubs. The front uprights are stamped M-1-8 and the rears M1-22. I did send an E to CAV and Ian got back to me that he could provide the parts but didn't tell me what they were off of or part numbers etc. I did ask for a parts list with pricing and should get that soon but would still like the info. I did do a search here on the forum without positive results. If i missed something please feel free to direct me in that direction. I am including some pics just do you know exactly what i have. Thanks rt
Cav upright parts
- Thread starter true
- Start date
TRUE, DO NOT USE THESE PARTS ! for safety reasons, go talk toi Ian ( CAV CANADA ) and buy his revised fabricated uprights, Frank
Pat Buckley
GT40s Supporter
So, someone ran into a curb?
Before making assertions of parts being unsafe, I would think a little more evidence would be offered.
Before making assertions of parts being unsafe, I would think a little more evidence would be offered.
Pat
Supporter
Auto Future released the following in 2004:
AutoFutura
Unit 4 Tifosa Park, 5 Bell Crescent, Westlake Business Park, South Africa
Tel: +27 21 702 3307, Fax: +27 21 702 2419, e-mail: [email protected]
Friday, 06 August 2004
Dear GT 40 Owners
IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTICE: POSSIBLE LOOSE BOLTS OR BOLT FAILURE
It has been brought to our attention that one of the early vehicles made by Cape Advanced Vehicles (CAV) had a front suspension failure. We have had a look at the area that failed and would recommend that the following bolts be checked immediately:
On the front uprights, the lower ball joint block is held onto the upright with two Allen cap screws. These bolts need to be a minimum of 8.8 tensile grade, non plated (size M10 x 30). Please check as follows:
• Remove the wheel and brake calliper (see photo).
• Once the calliper is off, remove the brake disc to gain access to the two bolts in question (see photo).
• Check the two Allen cap screws (shown in the photo). If they do not show 12.9 on the heads (or can be verified as being of the correct grade) or are plated, remove them and replace them with a minimum of an 8.8 tensile grade unplated unit.
• Loctite and torque to 60 Nm.
• Both sides of the car need to checked.
• It makes sense to check the upper balljoint block at the same time. The upper bolts should have oval washers fitted to prevent movement in the slots and should also be non plated and a minimum of 8.8 tensile grade.
• Check to make sure that the Allen bolts are correctly seated into the holes if the washers have been fitted. If there are no oval washers fitted, please contact Roy Sayles at VIP Classics to receive the correct bolts and washers.
• Replace the disc.
• Replace the calliper and wheel.
Notice:
Auto Futura did not manufacture these cars and cannot take any responsibility for failures and or costs for this to be checked and or remedied.
We are however concerned that current CAV GT owners take this safety notice seriously and carry out this check.
If you no longer own the CAV GT sold to you, please contact the new owner with this message. If you are not able to contact the new owner please let the dealer you bought the car from know this...
I personally replaced the front uprights with Ians units to correct the bump steer. My rears are stock and I haven't had any issues.
AutoFutura
Unit 4 Tifosa Park, 5 Bell Crescent, Westlake Business Park, South Africa
Tel: +27 21 702 3307, Fax: +27 21 702 2419, e-mail: [email protected]
Friday, 06 August 2004
Dear GT 40 Owners
IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTICE: POSSIBLE LOOSE BOLTS OR BOLT FAILURE
It has been brought to our attention that one of the early vehicles made by Cape Advanced Vehicles (CAV) had a front suspension failure. We have had a look at the area that failed and would recommend that the following bolts be checked immediately:
On the front uprights, the lower ball joint block is held onto the upright with two Allen cap screws. These bolts need to be a minimum of 8.8 tensile grade, non plated (size M10 x 30). Please check as follows:
• Remove the wheel and brake calliper (see photo).
• Once the calliper is off, remove the brake disc to gain access to the two bolts in question (see photo).
• Check the two Allen cap screws (shown in the photo). If they do not show 12.9 on the heads (or can be verified as being of the correct grade) or are plated, remove them and replace them with a minimum of an 8.8 tensile grade unplated unit.
• Loctite and torque to 60 Nm.
• Both sides of the car need to checked.
• It makes sense to check the upper balljoint block at the same time. The upper bolts should have oval washers fitted to prevent movement in the slots and should also be non plated and a minimum of 8.8 tensile grade.
• Check to make sure that the Allen bolts are correctly seated into the holes if the washers have been fitted. If there are no oval washers fitted, please contact Roy Sayles at VIP Classics to receive the correct bolts and washers.
• Replace the disc.
• Replace the calliper and wheel.
Notice:
Auto Futura did not manufacture these cars and cannot take any responsibility for failures and or costs for this to be checked and or remedied.
We are however concerned that current CAV GT owners take this safety notice seriously and carry out this check.
If you no longer own the CAV GT sold to you, please contact the new owner with this message. If you are not able to contact the new owner please let the dealer you bought the car from know this...
I personally replaced the front uprights with Ians units to correct the bump steer. My rears are stock and I haven't had any issues.
Did a search on CAV Uprights, this is what I came up with. Per the Thread below, use the correct bolts and Loctite, you should be OK. (Be sure there is 20mm of Thread engagement for an M10 bolt into Aluminum!)
Darnel
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tec...-wheels/24127-making-front-upright-safer.html
Darnel
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tec...-wheels/24127-making-front-upright-safer.html
Thank you all for the great information. Much appreciated. In for a penny, in for a pound. I will be drilling and through bolting the ball joint blocks. I"m in Boeing country so aircraft bolts are not hard to come by. :thumbsup: Other than that the big problem is hubs/spindles. I have spoken with Ian in Canada and Johann in California. The hubs are no longer being made. :furious: If a production car hub/spindle can be used they don't know of it. So i am again reaching out to the vast knowledge of this forum. If any CAV owner has upgraded (i can't at this time) and would like to part with their old hubs/spindles please contact me. Baring that, does anyone have some i can duplicate at a machine shop? Does anyone have blueprints from which a machinest can work? Can these uprights be reworked to take a common hub/spindle? If so what hub/spindle would be recommended? How can i be more hansom, where can i get a better job? (i thought as long as i'm asking how to make my life easier i thought i'd go all the way:laugh
Any ideas, as long as it's not throwing a lot of money at it, are welcome. I hope there is a brain storm in the horizon. thanks richard
Any ideas, as long as it's not throwing a lot of money at it, are welcome. I hope there is a brain storm in the horizon. thanks richard
Pat
Supporter
I may not have a brainstorm but perhaps a light drizzle.
I was told the stub axle was from a BMW 3 series. I had to cut off the nut to remove it from the old upright to reuse it for the replacement I bought from IAN. A BMW nut was a perfect fit replacement. So you may want to pull a couple 2002 BMW axles at a junkuyard and see if they might work. I've attached two photos of the ones I pulled out of my car. (Removing the little bastards was about as much fun as a root canal with an air hammer.) One concern I have with the old arrangement is you have Grade 8 bolts going into an alloy block. That is an unsafe receipe for wear and stripped threads, especially for a unit that takes the beating and vibration of a front upright. You also may want to look at some hot rod uprights that may be adaptable. Buy a copy of Street Rodder Magazine and you'll see page after page of ads for them.
I was told the stub axle was from a BMW 3 series. I had to cut off the nut to remove it from the old upright to reuse it for the replacement I bought from IAN. A BMW nut was a perfect fit replacement. So you may want to pull a couple 2002 BMW axles at a junkuyard and see if they might work. I've attached two photos of the ones I pulled out of my car. (Removing the little bastards was about as much fun as a root canal with an air hammer.) One concern I have with the old arrangement is you have Grade 8 bolts going into an alloy block. That is an unsafe receipe for wear and stripped threads, especially for a unit that takes the beating and vibration of a front upright. You also may want to look at some hot rod uprights that may be adaptable. Buy a copy of Street Rodder Magazine and you'll see page after page of ads for them.
Attachments
Thanks for the post VEEK. Much help. I will try a junkyard as soon as the weather permits. I'll take an extra big hammer with me. Someone also said try Audi 100 5 cylinder. I'll look for that car as well. I have the rear CAV uprights also and would like them to match as much as possible but will check out Street Rodder just to see what they offer. Also Jean Fourie from CAV NZ is sending me drawings so if all else fails i will make some. Way to come through guys... what a great fourm!!!
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