Excellent suggestion. Thanks.
Chuck's Jaguar D Type Build
- Thread starter CESLAW
- Start date
I've had great experience with the 3M 8115 as well.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/196608351492
It's not equal parts, but is equal amount of plunger travel. The 3M tool to deliver the adhesive is expensive. I just use a socket extension to push out equal amounts of plunger travel for parts A and B of the adhesive, then mix on a plate like JB Weld.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/196608351492
It's not equal parts, but is equal amount of plunger travel. The 3M tool to deliver the adhesive is expensive. I just use a socket extension to push out equal amounts of plunger travel for parts A and B of the adhesive, then mix on a plate like JB Weld.
Another good option. Thanks.
Seats, Part VI
A reliable method of locking the seat frame in place was needed. A spring-loaded inside rod with a 3/8” diameter tip that can snap into the forward blocks was designed and fabricated. This is starting to get complicated.
The inner diameter of the 7/8 inch tube was .745 inches. It had to be reamed to .750 so that a six inch long .75 inch steel rod could slip inside both ends. Then a 3/8” tip had to be turned on the lathe to match the holes in the mounting block. This took many hours.
This picture of the inside components next to the outside tube illustrates the final result. The spacer section is aluminum rather than steel, turned on the lathe to about .73 to assure it will slide easily.
It came together well. The front cross support bar is easily removed and the springs assure a positive, audible, lock on the support blocks.
We found stainless steel quarter inch diameter knurled head thumb screws at McMaster Carr that work perfectly. Part # 91746A310. The steel rod was taped for a 10-24 screw and the knob was easily installed. After final welding and painting, a bit of red Locktite will secure this in place.
A reliable method of locking the seat frame in place was needed. A spring-loaded inside rod with a 3/8” diameter tip that can snap into the forward blocks was designed and fabricated. This is starting to get complicated.
The inner diameter of the 7/8 inch tube was .745 inches. It had to be reamed to .750 so that a six inch long .75 inch steel rod could slip inside both ends. Then a 3/8” tip had to be turned on the lathe to match the holes in the mounting block. This took many hours.
This picture of the inside components next to the outside tube illustrates the final result. The spacer section is aluminum rather than steel, turned on the lathe to about .73 to assure it will slide easily.
It came together well. The front cross support bar is easily removed and the springs assure a positive, audible, lock on the support blocks.
We found stainless steel quarter inch diameter knurled head thumb screws at McMaster Carr that work perfectly. Part # 91746A310. The steel rod was taped for a 10-24 screw and the knob was easily installed. After final welding and painting, a bit of red Locktite will secure this in place.
Neil
Supporter
Did you see the movie "Day Of The Jackal"?
No, but it is on my list.
Seats, Part VIII
The rear seat frame does not use a spring-loaded rod but rather a fixed rod with a 3/8” pin that will slide into the 3/8” wide and three-eighths-inch-deep groove on the supporting block. Accessing a spring-loaded pin on the rear of the seat would not be practical once the cushion is in place.
Four support rods were needed, two per seat. Steel rods with a ¾ inch outside diameter were milled to .73 and then cut to four-inch lengths. A pin 3/8” in diameter and 3/8” long was turned on the lathe.
After the fit was confirmed leaving only 1/16” gap between the support block and the rod end, the rods were secured by drilling a 1/8” hole and inserting a pin on the bottom side. The pin was left slightly proud should it ever need to be removed.
Next are the cushion supports.
The rear seat frame does not use a spring-loaded rod but rather a fixed rod with a 3/8” pin that will slide into the 3/8” wide and three-eighths-inch-deep groove on the supporting block. Accessing a spring-loaded pin on the rear of the seat would not be practical once the cushion is in place.
Four support rods were needed, two per seat. Steel rods with a ¾ inch outside diameter were milled to .73 and then cut to four-inch lengths. A pin 3/8” in diameter and 3/8” long was turned on the lathe.
After the fit was confirmed leaving only 1/16” gap between the support block and the rod end, the rods were secured by drilling a 1/8” hole and inserting a pin on the bottom side. The pin was left slightly proud should it ever need to be removed.
Next are the cushion supports.
Seats, Part IX
Foam cushions will be placed over the frame, so flat supports are needed. These were cut from 20 gauge aluminum and folded to fit snugly over the frame.
Plans were drawn and the parts cut, mostly with a hand shear. The goal was to cut and fold the pieces as precisely as possible to assure a good fit.
Each of the inside corners was drilled to a quarter inch before cutting to avoid sharp angles that can lead to cracking of the aluminum.
The edges were sanded and/or filed to make sure the dimensions were exact.
Once the pieces were cut, the sides were folded. The folds are important since they provide significant strength and define the fit, so time was spent lining the pieces up to assure the bends were correct.
The Eastwood tool has plates that can be removed for fabricating boxes, which was needed to make the ends folds.
Here is an example of a folded corner with the rounded corner visible. Sharp corners can cause stress cracks.
At this point, the majority of the cutting and bending for the seats is done.
Foam cushions will be placed over the frame, so flat supports are needed. These were cut from 20 gauge aluminum and folded to fit snugly over the frame.
Plans were drawn and the parts cut, mostly with a hand shear. The goal was to cut and fold the pieces as precisely as possible to assure a good fit.
Each of the inside corners was drilled to a quarter inch before cutting to avoid sharp angles that can lead to cracking of the aluminum.
The edges were sanded and/or filed to make sure the dimensions were exact.
Once the pieces were cut, the sides were folded. The folds are important since they provide significant strength and define the fit, so time was spent lining the pieces up to assure the bends were correct.
The Eastwood tool has plates that can be removed for fabricating boxes, which was needed to make the ends folds.
Here is an example of a folded corner with the rounded corner visible. Sharp corners can cause stress cracks.
At this point, the majority of the cutting and bending for the seats is done.
Davidmgbv8
Supporter
Can’t wait to see the bigger picture of the assembly
Seats, Part X
The aluminum seat section that sets next to the parking brake required special attention. A notch was cut to provide clearance for the brake handle which meant the fold had to be cut out. This obviously weakens it requiring that a reinforcement be added.
An angle was made, ¾ inches on each side, and cut to fit.
The angle are riveted in place. The location of the holes was spaced with a nifty tool we picked up at EAA Air Venture in Oshkosh. All the holes were drilled on the top side but only two on the angle bracket. The remaining holes will be match drilled when it is riveted.
The cushion supports will be riveted to the frame when final assembly is done, after final welding and painting.
The aluminum seat section that sets next to the parking brake required special attention. A notch was cut to provide clearance for the brake handle which meant the fold had to be cut out. This obviously weakens it requiring that a reinforcement be added.
An angle was made, ¾ inches on each side, and cut to fit.
The angle are riveted in place. The location of the holes was spaced with a nifty tool we picked up at EAA Air Venture in Oshkosh. All the holes were drilled on the top side but only two on the angle bracket. The remaining holes will be match drilled when it is riveted.
The cushion supports will be riveted to the frame when final assembly is done, after final welding and painting.
Seats, Part XI
With all the foregoing preparation done, we were finally able to complete the welding of the seat frame, again using the jig to assure good alignment. Even with a jig the welding caused some slight distortion requiring that the forward tubes be reamed again to assure the spring-loaded rods moved easily; a very time-consuming project with a ¾” hand reamer. The frames were than set in place so that the rear blocks could be aligned and installed, using the same procedure as had been used on the front blocks.
The frames were prepped, primed, and painted low gloss black. The aluminum cushion support panels were set in place. Only five rivets on each frame secure them in place.
The holes to support the Jaguar XKE diaphragm were drilled with the holes spaced to assure a bit of tension. The diaphragm was then set in place.
The seat bases were set in the Jag confirming everything aligned properly. This design permits raising or lowering the seat base to two positions. The front and rear can be separately raised or lowered to alter the angle of the seat.
The seat back supports and base frame are now finished and ready for cushions.
With the back supports and bottom seat frames now complete, we can move on to making the cushions. But first I need to learn how to sew.
With all the foregoing preparation done, we were finally able to complete the welding of the seat frame, again using the jig to assure good alignment. Even with a jig the welding caused some slight distortion requiring that the forward tubes be reamed again to assure the spring-loaded rods moved easily; a very time-consuming project with a ¾” hand reamer. The frames were than set in place so that the rear blocks could be aligned and installed, using the same procedure as had been used on the front blocks.
The frames were prepped, primed, and painted low gloss black. The aluminum cushion support panels were set in place. Only five rivets on each frame secure them in place.
The holes to support the Jaguar XKE diaphragm were drilled with the holes spaced to assure a bit of tension. The diaphragm was then set in place.
The seat bases were set in the Jag confirming everything aligned properly. This design permits raising or lowering the seat base to two positions. The front and rear can be separately raised or lowered to alter the angle of the seat.
The seat back supports and base frame are now finished and ready for cushions.
With the back supports and bottom seat frames now complete, we can move on to making the cushions. But first I need to learn how to sew.
As always Chuck, a real work of art .
Regards Brian
Regards Brian
