Columbus Ohio RCR40

Sorry everyone, looks like GT40s.com doesn't want me to have vertically oriented photos tonight... I fiddled with it for about 5 minutes and couldn't fix things so not sure why I am just now having this trouble.

The drivers door leading edge was very far from matching up with the A-pillar near the windshield. Luckily this also easily could be bent in with some gentle clamping force and plenty of heat.

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Once the doors were fitting how I liked and panel gaps at about 85% I moved onto the door latches as I wanted to have these installed and working before I finalize any body gaps. I opted to mount the plate on the outside of the door. This way the plate sandwiches the fiberglass between itself and the actual bear claw latch. I think this setup is stronger/more solid. Plus the plate will look great powder coated black. Please excuse the rough initial cuts in the fiberglass here, I will certainly circle back to clean everything up once I nail down the functionality.

I plan to circle back at a later time and install some metal beams across the door for some anti-intrusion. Still thinking through how to bring it all together.

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Currently I am REALLY struggling with mounting the actual exterior door latch. I hate the idea of simply pinning it through holes in the fiberglass, and lets be honest there needs to be some adjustment in the pinning location to get it perfectly lined up and flush with the door. I also ran out of fiberglass for the latch pin. Currently thinking about fiber-glassing in some aluminum angle stock and building some adjustment into that.

Also the latch lever is inconveniently located at the bottom of the latch far from the lever. Currently I mocked up some scrap aluminum to bolt in there to test things but eventually I think I will weld some steel onto this latch so the arm extends vertically upward closer to the handle arm. This will be much more advantageous for the lever system and also I don't need to worry about a bolt loosening up and preventing my door from opening.

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To mount the door jamb bolts I trimmed down the supplied part so it wasn't as long, and simply welded in some new steel to provide the necessary offset. This was a bit tricky to get to line up well on the first try. I also ran into a bit of an issue where the bolts holding the latch plate to the door stuck out far enough to catch the door jamb mount slightly. Currently I just have some extra washers to stick the bolt out further which then allowed me to have a little less offset for the mount. Pretty happy with how this turned out, definitely going to circle back and reinforce the mount.

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Hopefully soon I will have better mounting for the exterior latches and can do the same thing for the drivers door. From there it is just lots of sanding. Not super happy with how the passenger door lines up with the spider from the supplier... as you can see from the above picture a lot of work will be needed to even things out. The last two major milestones for the body will be switching the front nose to a hinge style mount so it can be tilted forward and adding the +2 flares... should be a fun time!!!

happy new year all!!
 
January was a very productive month.
Both doors mount, have hard mounted door handles, and door jambs. Pretty happy with how everything turned out. Mounting the door handles in a manner where the pin position is adjustable turned out to work great. The door handles are able to be precisely adjusted to fit just right. I have one picture of an early mock up. Essentially just two pieces of aluminum angle iron each with a floating plate with a hole in it just the right size for the handle pin. The angle iron got glassed in to the door.

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I noticed there are not a lot of posts about installing +2 flares on the rear clip. I decided I'd post a handful of pictures of the way we decided to go about it in case it helps others. I am sure there are many ways to do this, each with their own drawbacks and benefits. We followed some tips we got while picking up the kit at RCR and are very very happy with the results. The panels were bonded with 610 from West Systems. Lots of self tapping screws worked great to hold the panels together and in place. I tried to cut the old fender out in a way that was conducive to minimal body work to smooth out the seam. So far things look pretty good.

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it was hilarious to see the car without a rear fender. Pretty nerve racking too. No going back now!!

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Some trimming of the +2 panel and it started to fit pretty well for the first time. This was the first glimpse of our car with the flares.

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The other side went a lot quicker.

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Next up were the rocker flare panels. This surprisingly difficult to get "good enough". The flare panels were quite rough, and had to be heated a lot to get a reasonable fit.

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A trick that worked well for us was to use part of the old rocker that needed to be cut out to serve as a backing for the new panel.
I will go back and smooth it and re-enforce things.
 
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This was as close as I could get the passenger side. I am happy with the seam but the wheel lip flare just wouldn't line up just right.
It will need a lot of additional work.

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The drivers side went much smoother/better.

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Next up is some light body work. The curves of the rear clip are so organic it will take a lot of careful sanding and time.
 
Small update this time... Just lots and lots of sanding. This is our first fiberglass body, but I believe we are through most of the learning curve.
The rear clip is finally starting to come together, I am really happy with it.

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Body alignment pins also went in for the rear clip. We tried to get away with one for both sides, but I wasn't happy with the rigidity. One on each side of the slot for the Hartwell latches really locked things up nicely on each side!

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I am guess we probably have another month or so of body work and I think it will finally be time to switch gears. Probably mounting the motor!
 

Randy V

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Looking good Nick!
I had a heckuva time getting my wide hips and clip where I wanted them to be. Especially getting the rear deck “flat” between the arches. I built a rear support structure from 1x1 oak from the big box store and glassed it in place. 200% better results!!!
 

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Hey Nick,
Great job on the build so far. Although I am a new member, I am far from new to the forum. I have been watching peoples builds for several years now trying to learn everything I can before I embark on my own.
In saying that, I live in Danville OH and I would love to come take a look at your car! When I decide to pull the trigger I too plan on buying a kit from RCR. They are close and I like the aluminum monocoque design.

Let me know if you wouldn‘t mind having a random guest stop by and pick your brain.

keep up the good work, I can’t wait to see it completed!
 
Hey Nick,
Great job on the build so far. Although I am a new member, I am far from new to the forum. I have been watching peoples builds for several years now trying to learn everything I can before I embark on my own.
In saying that, I live in Danville OH and I would love to come take a look at your car! When I decide to pull the trigger I too plan on buying a kit from RCR. They are close and I like the aluminum monocoque design.

Let me know if you wouldn‘t mind having a random guest stop by and pick your brain.

keep up the good work, I can’t wait to see it completed!
Hey Nate, welcome to the Forum! PM sent.
 
The past month was full of sanding and more sanding. However eventually things shifted to getting the front clip mounted finally!

I took heavy inspiration from @Mstarkey3 for mounting the front clip in a way that lets it rotate forward.

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I landed on two 5/8" bolts that thread into coupling nuts that I cut down slightly and welded to a steel plate. I liked the idea of some extra threads. Then as if the 5/8" bolt wasn't overkill enough I welded in two gussets. I guess that just shows the faith I have in my welds... lol.
This was the best solution we could think of as the radiator is directly on the far side of the frame here so the bolt cannot pass through.

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These bolts pass through the clip and a 1/8" aluminum plate bent to follow the body as it has a curve here.

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I plan to circle back to this for a few further improvements:
1. I want to keep the bolts from backing out with either a jam nut or capturing the head of the bolt. My original plan is to capture the bolt head on the inside of the clip with a cap that then itself bolts to the front clip eliminating any bolt rotation independent of the body. This way the body can open by rotating on the threads and the bolt could never back out. Also this solution allows the nose of the clip to easily be adjusted to left and right by tightening/loosening the large bolts on both sides. If this doesn't work out a jam nut would secure the bolt, but then the body would rotate on the bolt threads. Not the end of the world imo.
2. The bolt heads are not perpendicular to the aluminum plates due to the shape of the body. While maybe not required I think it would be nice to build up some weld around the hole in this area and then carefully grind it flat to the bolt for a nice surface to mate too.
3. The plate borrows two bolts from that frame along the bottom that now need to be longer

Also we finished getting the center panel fit and clipped in. I decided to go with quick latches as I think they look cool, and are easily adapted to many different applications/heights. Getting the mounting buckets was a must here do to the close clearances. Also maybe this goes without saying, but don't cheap out on these if you decide to use these. You can buy 4 on amazon for a few dollars but they are garbage. I returned a set and ordered others from push button latches.com that were more expensive but a night and day difference in quality. These are the 1.25" mini "pro series".
The front two buckets just barely didn't fit on the original body flanges where I mounted them, I forgot to take a picture. I will go back and rebuild them slightly larger. You can make them fit, but I think the corresponding buttons on the outside of the panel would look wonky that close to the corner edge. The buckets are small enough that the clip can still rotate past the radiator with a comfortable amount of clearance.

Bonus points if you spotted the chief engineer sleeping on the job! Despicable! I thought she was a working breed!

Up next is final body gap fitment, swapping over the wiper mount, and Hartwell latches!

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