drb pilot bearing question - - -HELP

[dave harris]

can anyone tell me if the pilot bearing supplied by drb for the small block ford to g50 transaxle is suppose to seat clear down to the "shoulder" in the rear of the crank??

I'm trying to install the trans and I'm running into resistance with about 1/8 inch left to go before the trans seats to the adapter plate.

the pilot bearing is the only thing I can think of that might cause this.

thanks in advance for the help!

Dave

 

[flatchat(Chris)]

Yes, all the way to the shoulder

 

[dave harris]

thanks !

one more question - I bought a starter from Kennedy Engineering - they said the model I needed was the IMI-101 - I've tried every postion for the mounting collar (there's 4 postions on the new models - only 2 as I remember from older version) and none seem to work - am I missing something exremely stupid - or did they quote the wrong version??

dave h

 

[Dimi Terleckyj]

Hi Dave

When you say it "doesn't work" what doesn't work??

Is it not mounting correctly or is it fouling with something else on the motor or the chassis??????????

With my starter motor it also wouldn't fit but what DRB neglected to tell me initially was that in some installations the chassis has to be notched to provide the clearance required.

As a side note my starter was provided as part of a package from Renegade Hybrids and Kennedy Engineering in the US.

Dimi

 

[Bill Bayard]

Dave,

I had the exact same problem with my Kennedy supplied starter.

You will need to rotate the starter, in order to get a proper fit. Pull the 4 flange bolts, rotate the starter to where the solenoid clears the main chassis rail, and make a mark to line the starter and flange in their new location. Take the starter to a machine shop for drilling the new holes in the flange, as precise location of the holes is critical for smooth operation of the starter.

If you need further details, let me know.



Bill

 

[Dave]

Here's a pic of Phil Moores DRB starter I took last year. G50 to windsor 5ltr. Hope it helps.

 

[dave harris]

Dimi, Bill & Dave S.

the problem with the starter is that it interfers with the frame rail rightwhere the rear suspension a arm bolts tot he chassis (see the picture Dave S. provided). In Dave S' picture you can see where the whole top of the frame rail has been modified to lower it enough to clear the starter solenoie (although I don't recognize that particluar starter). on the Kennedy unit, the gear housing flange hits the frame rail.

Bill D,

I've pulled the colar like you said, rotated it so everything so that I can make it mount up, but when I do, the upper bolt hole is so close to the mounting stud in the bell housing that you could never get anytype of nut on there - and the gear casing still rests on the frame rail. I've thought of replacing that stud with an allen head bolt (so both connectiion for the starter are now bolts), but that still leaves me with having to modify the frame rail right by the suspensiion mount points - not something i'm fond of doing!

Anyway -

Thanks everyone for the inputs - I thought it would be something more difficult than just slippin it in!!

Dave H

 

[dave harris]

Based on Dave S' picture above, if I need to modify the frame - do I need to completely disconnect the MSD - 6AL from the car to do the welding? I've heard/read different opinions of this and sure don't want to trash an expensive ignition control unit when i mig that sucker up!

(same question when using the plasma cutter on that area).

thanks everyone - - maybe I'll post this question in another forum too


Dave H

 

[Bill Bayard]

Dave,

I'm quite familiar with that tune!

I forgot to mention that I changed the direction of the upper starter bolt,

making access to it very simple. I drilled out the threaded hole in the

gearbox, drilled and tapped new (larger) thread in the starter, and ran a

larger bolt w/lockwasher, in from the front. Installing/removing it was a simple

task with a ratchet after adding the new bolt. Previously, it was a tricky

process of 1/8 turn, flip tappet wrench, 1/8 turn, flip tappet wrench etc.,

because space was VERY limited (read EXTREME pain in the ass!).

I have photos of the new bolt configuration, if you need to see them, etc.

BTW, the solenoid/frame clearance was 1/4" +/-. From the sound of your

problem with the mounting stud, you may have rotated things too far.

Reversing the direction of the upper bolt, might save the day for you.


Bill

 

[dave harris]

Hey Bill - now thats a creative solution I had not thought of!! may save the welding/cutting/swearing I was preparing to do!!

thanks for the great idea!

Dave H

 

[Bill Bayard]

It was one of those rare, momentary flashes of brilliance.

I just hope that you haven't rotated the starter motor too far, and don't
come up short of space, if a second new set of holes is required. As long as you can rotate the starter to where the bolt hole ear on the flange matches the hole in the gearbox, and don't have a solenoid/chassis rail clearance problem, you've got it knocked.

Good luck!


Bill

 

[Peter Delaney]

I also had a problem with clearance between the starter & the chassis rail - but not all that bad. It was solved by simply putting 2 washers under the gearbox mount on each side - about 1/8" of lift.

Kind Regards,

Peter D.