Front engine mount modification

Joel K

Supporter
Looking for some feedback from builders who know fabrication.

The SLC comes with the standard LS3 Engine Mount. Since I am using an LT4, the dimensions are a bit different.

My question is would you modify the existing mount or fabricate a new one. I am leaning toward fabricating a new one.

See below for the change in dimensions That are needed. As always, I appreciate the feedback. Also, wondering where I can source the unthreaded weld in rod end which is 1.5” wide with a 3/8” hole.

6A4F729E-DA23-4A79-9083-18E32245D9A4.jpeg
 
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It's simple enough to fab up a new bracket, assuming you have a welder and basic metal-working tools. I'm guessing you could get the materials from MCMaster or Online Metals.
 

Ken Roberts

Supporter
I would cut the engine mounts off, clean up the square tubing where the welds were, then cut the square tubing in the middle and slide (inside) a smaller section of square tubing. The 1/4" gap will be taken up by welding. You are just left with building new engine mount tubes.

Similar to what Kurtiss had to do.
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Roger Reid

Supporter
How about, as Ken suggested, a cut in the middle removing your 1 3/16” to achieve your proper engine mount spacing. Keep the engine mounts with 1.25” spacers. Then 2 more splices outboard the engine mounts to correct for width
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
Have you called Fran about making you one in exchange for the OEM piece? It might be worth a try. Otherwise here's a good source for steel in small quantiles. I would use 4140 steel tubing and make the round standoffs out of 4140 solid rod then drill and tap the centers. If the 4140 is hard to source then use cold rolled steel.
I would also cut off the two side rail mounts and reuse them. Just clean them up with a sander.

Use the car chassis to jig the horizontal piece's in place so that it is sure to fit. Then once you have that part done use the motor with mounts installed to jig the vertical rods onto the horizontal piece after establishing a center.

If you can't weld or don't have a buddy then clean everything to shinny steel and mark with a sharpie, have a shop tack everything together, take home and check fit and take it back to finish weld.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/

There is also a Metal supermarket near you. I buy a lot of metal in small quantiles from a local metal supermarket near me. They will cut it for you for a small price.

https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/fairfield/
 

Joel K

Supporter
Have you called Fran about making you one in exchange for the OEM piece? It might be worth a try. Otherwise here's a good source for steel in small quantiles. I would use 4140 steel tubing and make the round standoffs out of 4140 solid rod then drill and tap the centers. If the 4140 is hard to source then use cold rolled steel.
I would also cut off the two side rail mounts and reuse them. Just clean them up with a sander.

Use the car chassis to jig the horizontal piece's in place so that it is sure to fit. Then once you have that part done use the motor with mounts installed to jig the vertical rods onto the horizontal piece after establishing a center.

If you can't weld or don't have a buddy then clean everything to shinny steel and mark with a sharpie, have a shop tack everything together, take home and check fit and take it back to finish weld.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/

There is also a Metal supermarket near you. I buy a lot of metal in small quantiles from a local metal supermarket near me. They will cut it for you for a small price.

https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/fairfield/

Thanks Howard, I have a request in to RCR to see if I can exchange the one I have. Thanks for the detail on which metal to use. I have a 90 amp mig welder which I would just spot weld and then give it to a professional to weld up.
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
Ya that's what I would do too. If you were near me I would make it for ya but long distance trial and error fitting never works. Good luck with that.
 
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