Fuel pump preference

After 8 years and 7000 miles the fuel pump has gone tango uniform. Current setup is 100 micron filter directly attached to tank. Cables to fuel pump then to 10 micron filter and fuel rail.

Filters are made by aeromotive. Fuel pump brand unknown but looks pretty standard.
Motor LS3

Anybody have a recommendation for a new pump?

Thanks
 
A side question. Are the multi port fuel rails worth the cost and installation trouble? I have the standard ls3 single port rails. Since I’m in the fuel system was thinking about this upgrade
 
I use Weldon 1100A external fuel pumps in all my builds - it has very low draw, under 15 amp, and can handle over 1000hp. It's noisy, but the install is really simple and it's a great pump. Weldon quality is fantastic.
https://www.weldonracing.com/store/1100-A-p56062401

The OEM fuel rail is fine for up to 700hp but the problem is attaching AN hoses to it. You need to use a quick disconnect style fitting. Older versions used to blow off and catch cars on fire. Newer versions are safe, but I'm leery of them because a small piece of nylon is the only thing standing between you and an engine fire. Not to mention the connection is hanging right over the header and if the o-ring seal ever leaks ... fire fire fire. Also, after 8yrs of use I found that my quick disconnect fitting had slowly caused the fuel rail inlet to bend down ... that really scares me.

When I put a new engine in my SLC I opted to throw on billet fuel rails just so I could get away from the quick disconnect fitting. I'd recommend the Radium Engineering fuel rails
http://www.radiumauto.com/Fuel-Rails-GM-LS1-LS2-LS3-LS6-L76-L99-P943.aspx

I used to use Nasty Performance Billet Fuel rails - the quality used to be 10/10 - but the set I got had poorly machined brackets (did not fit) intake manifold properly as well as machining junk (curly-ques) hanging off the machined bores. And 0 support by email/phone basically. Very disappointing.

FAST fuel rails are garbage - leak leak leak

but the Radium fuel rails were a nice piece. The only thing to be aware of is they have -8 AN ports at the bottom you'll likely cap off. The thread length is pretty short so you want to use their countersunk plugs to seal them off. If you use plugs with a longer thread, like Earls, you'll bottom out and strip the threads (don't ask how i learned that lesson)
 

Ken Roberts

Supporter
A side question. Are the multi port fuel rails worth the cost and installation trouble? I have the standard ls3 single port rails. Since I’m in the fuel system was thinking about this upgrade
Waste of time unless you are converting to a return style of fuel system.
 

Ken Roberts

Supporter
You can get them in 8AN.
Part no: SS-810-6-8AN
Unfortunately that's for a 1/2" tube. The stock LS3 fuel rails tubing at that area is only 3/8" diameter.
Using a 8AN connector at that point really doesn't make any sense when the tubing is only 3/8".
8AN fuel line is overkill unless you have big horsepower.
 
Older versions used to blow off and catch cars on fire. Newer versions are safe, but I'm leery of them because a small piece of nylon is the only thing standing between you and an engine fire.
There are all aluminum versions that screw together. While I don't us an LS any more, these are the same fittings required for the GM Flex Fuel Sensor (which I do use).

You can find these from a number of suppliers. I buy my AN fittings in bulk from China and have never had one of these leak or come loose.

s-l1600 (1).jpg
 
There are all aluminum versions that screw together. While I don't us an LS any more, these are the same fittings required for the GM Flex Fuel Sensor (which I do use).

You can find these from a number of suppliers. I buy my AN fittings in bulk from China and have never had one of these leak or come loose.

View attachment 98736
I'm sure the risk of fail/fire is almost zero, but I don't want to be the one. The only reason I used fuel rails was for peace of mind for that 0.0001% event.
 
My 10u filter plugged at about 10k miles. Caused the fuel pump to go beserk. If you look on the web, the 10u is mostly run by LMP race teams and 1/4 mile cars. The average road car runs 40u. In an LS3/7 the injectors will burp and burn sub 40u particles. A 40u particle is 1/2 the thickness of your hair so cooked. Does anyone know of a 25u to 40u fuel filter option for Aeromotive post filter?
 

Steven Lobel

Supporter
My 10u filter plugged at about 10k miles. Caused the fuel pump to go beserk. If you look on the web, the 10u is mostly run by LMP race teams and 1/4 mile cars. The average road car runs 40u. In an LS3/7 the injectors will burp and burn sub 40u particles. A 40u particle is 1/2 the thickness of your hair so cooked. Does anyone know of a 25u to 40u fuel filter option for Aeromotive post filter?
https://www.deatschwerks.com/faq-page#t310n1211

Recommended is 10u per their faq.
 
My 10u filter plugged at about 10k miles. Caused the fuel pump to go beserk. If you look on the web, the 10u is mostly run by LMP race teams and 1/4 mile cars. The average road car runs 40u. In an LS3/7 the injectors will burp and burn sub 40u particles. A 40u particle is 1/2 the thickness of your hair so cooked. Does anyone know of a 25u to 40u fuel filter option for Aeromotive post filter?
Thanks Cam.

That is sort of what is happening here. Car starts and runs fine - sometimes 100 miles no issue - then you will start feeling loss of power like is misfiring. Once you pull over ( and you are going to pull over ), it will start and then die at the slightest touch of throttle. For reasons yet unknown if you let it set for 30 minutes or so, it will start up and run another 5 miles before repeating the above sequence.

Fuel pump is making "interesting" sounds - sort of like its straining
voltage is fine -

I've checked the ECU and there are no codes.


I bought a new 100 U filter (stainless) - mainly. to have a spare and a new 10u right before the fuel rails. I'm going to replace the fuel pump just as a precautionary measure. Also trying to clean the tank if any sediment is in there. Since I didn't assemble this car, figuring out how to get to the fuel tank has been interesting. In the 6+ years I"ve owned this car - it's taught me a lifetime of mechanics. I'm temporarily stumped but too stupid to give up.

Problem is 100u filter is screwed directly into tank and fuel pump comes off that. I can't get to it from the top and I don't have a lift handy. Can I remove the back firewall cover and go thru the cabin?

I would also like to remove the tank and clean it out just to be safe.
 
I recently had issues with my hp fuel pump. There are several solutions recommended in this thread, you have to wade through some of the extra junk in there.

https://www.gt40s.com/threads/weird-ls-startup-issue-fuel-or-electrical.53128/page-2

Are you running a surge tank or just a single pump pulling from the main tank and into the rails? Based on your description it seems like just the one pump.
No surge - 100U is connected directly to fuel tank - to fuel pump - to regulator - to 10U filter then to fuel rail. That car was built that way so I never really had a reason to mess with it.
 
No surge - 100U is connected directly to fuel tank - to fuel pump - to regulator - to 10U filter then to fuel rail. That car was built that way so I never really had a reason to mess with it.
You've had the car for quite a while and it seems like it's been working for you. If you're going to be redoing the fuel system you might want to consider adding a surge tank to protect yourself from fuel starvation issues. Then again, you've had the car for quite a while now and haven't had the issue so it may not be worth investing in.

If you tend to run the tank down so it's low, even moderate driving may be enough to slosh the fuel away from the pickup to cause momentary starvation of the fuel pump. I don't know if there's a cumulative damage effect, but this tends to cause the pumps to cavitate/overheat and leads to eventual failure of the pump. These pumps are (typically) designed to be pusher types only, they don't do so well sucking in fuel.

That thread I linked to and my most recent posts/videos have a fair bit of information regarding the "typical" SLC fuel system, which includes a surge tank. I think most people would recommend going with a surge tank for the added safety against momentary leaning out, maybe not quite as critical for an NA application. However, surge tanks are part of the standard fuel system delivered with the SLC (at least now it is).
 
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