Getrag in my GT40 is not right...what's up? Help

My friend drove my CAV GT40 70 miles east to my summer home for the winter today with me in the passenger seat. I'm not allowed to drive because of of a cycling accident (a car hit me) until another month but that's another story. Anyway, I kept asking what's the matter as he was having a difficult time shifting to first when we came to a stop. He said the clutch was too deep. I could not understand because the last time I drove the car 2 months ago, it was perfect and shifted fine. When we got to the house, I decided to drive it going inside my garage and onto the lift I have and noticed that the car DID have some sort of clutch creep and was difficult to shift into first. When I raised the lift to drain the oil, I noticed a small puddle and when I checked the clutch reservoir, there was hardly any fluid left. I could not see any leaks up to the point where the hose enters the top of the transaxle. I filled the fluid reservoir again and pumped the clutch and the level went down about .25 in. and saw a puddle of oil under the transaxle again. I never had any leaks on this car ever, now with about 6000 miles on it. My friend told me it could be the point where the hydraulic system moves the release bearing inside the transaxle. Now, I am not familiar with this tranny at all and would like to know if this is common or if it's necessary to remove the transaxle from the engine to analyze this...
Please help me any of you who have had this happen or any Getrag tranny experts out there?:sad:
Ray, Sounds like your car is fitted with an internal throw out bearing, if so it has either developed a leak or one of the hose fittings is loose or leaking, easiest way to check might be to locate someone with a flex borescope to have a look via any access holes, but it sounds like a trans removal job to do any remedial work required.
Depending on which make of TOB you have you should be able to get a replacement or seal kit if reqd, be aware that there have been many updates/advances on these in recent years though & your particular model might no longer be available in which case a later version might need to be fitted.

Fran Hall RCR

GT40s Sponsor
Sounds to me like the slave cylinder maybe leaking into the bellhousing area as 016 boxes have a mechanical throwout arm and release bearing as standard...
Dr. Fran is correct as this happened to me with my Audi 016 box. You do not have to disassemble the trans from the engine. The slave cylinder can be removed and replaced since it is on the outside top of the box. There is a wrist pin that slips through the trans case and retains the slave cylinder, which has an indented ring. You will need to tap out the pin and the cylinder should be able to be pulled out of the box casing. Mine did not have the pin installed but the cylinder somehow stayed in place and in fact was frozen in the bore. I had to work it out by rotating it back and forth with a pipe wrench while prying backwards on the ears of the cylinder. If yours is stuck, use some PB Blaster penetrant to help free it up. The cylinders are cheap. An application is a 1985 Audi 5000 2.2L L5 (non-turbo). has one for $21.79. You bleed the cylinder like a new brake caliper. Open the cylinder bleed valve and depress the clutch pedel, then close the valve before releasing the pedel. Repeat until you squirt fluid with no air out of the bleed valve.
Ray, Have a word with Scott Dewitt at advanced automotion. He's pretty much a audi box expert. I think you can find him by googling Hope this helps.
thanks all, I think I'll look much closer and see if I can do what Mark is suggesting. I'll see if I can loosen up and remove the slave from the top and replace it...

Again, thanks for all your help. I'll post what happens...Cheers!
As Mark Clapp suggested, I have ordered the part from, got it in 2 days and checked the part against what's in the transaxle. That's what it is! so I plan on changing the slave cylinder this week...I'll report, hopefully with pics.:drunk:
I tried to hammer the pin that holds the slave in the hole with no luck! Then again, it's been years since the build of this tranny, I guess. I've sprayed it with a catalyst soak lube; we'll see what happens after another week. Otherwise, I may have to drill the pin out!

Any other suggestions on taking this slave out? Thanks again!
Finally got the roll pin out and carefully tapped the old slave cylinder out. It was in bad shape, really old-looking, kinda rusty, and leaking. Put the new $22 slave cyl. in, filled the reservoir to the top with synthetic brake fluid, bled it, and test drove the car. Perfectly good now; bled the system again until the fluid was nice, clear and clean.

Thanks to all who helped me! This forum is great!


Fran, my neurologist finally gave me the OK to drive too, so double the celebration points after fixing the clutch leak prob. Thanks to all the responses to this thread, I've gotten the fix I needed this weekend! Car's running great!
Now, I'm wondering if I should change the tranny oil, at around 6000 miles. I just did a search on it and nothing much, except something about using Redline 75W90 synthetic. I have to look some more, I guess, as I have no clue regarding the procedure, etc.:laugh:
Thanks again!