GT40 on fire or how to prevent

JimmyMac

Lifetime Supporter
I found these:


I sent them a email and asked if they could be configured to normally open so that if power was lost then it would dump any fluid pressure and if they were comparable with gasoline.

Here was their response: I think this would work with a separate return line to the fuel tank.



Hi Howard,

You can absolutely configure this to be normally open however these ball valves consume such a negligible amount of power to remain open that it is usually unnecessary. For example many people use these on their vacation homes and have them powered open for months at a time while they are there.
Here are the steps:

1. notate the position that the actuator is in upon opening the box for the valve
2. remove actuator
3. under the actuator is a coin size disc that you can take a flat head screw driver and twist the ball manually to open.
4. put the actuator back on but at a 90 degree turn.
5. Test the valve.

We have had quite a number of customers successfully do this. One of our customers also created a document outlining these steps in more detail. I've attached a file outlining how to convert these.

These valves are compatible with fuel.


Thank you,
Rob Donahue
Ecommerce Operations
Electricsolenoidvalves.com
Phone: 800-983-8230
Address: 85B Hoffman Ln, Islandia, NY 11749
http://electricsolenoidvalves.com/
Hi Howard,

Back to prevention, I hope.

I am very interested in Frank's dump system and I have had a set of Tecalemit solenoid valves for years but not got down to engineering a P&ID to see if I can make a safe and workable fuel system similar to his.

The Tecalemit solenoid fuel valves are from the Jaguar XJ6/12 series 3. These are also used on early Lotus fuel systems.
They are compact and have reasonable sized hose connections, albeit push-on rather than threaded.

Check out these part numbers if you are interested :

CBC 4269 - Fuel Changeover
CBC 4270 - Fuel Return Valve "closed"
CAC 3939 - Fuel Return Valve "open"




Tecalemit.jpg
 
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Jimmy, it works well, and SC Jaguar have stock. A system that dumps all residual fuel pressure away to safety is in my opinion essential, and we have had no carb fires since it's inception. ( much better than waiting for a fire then trying to put it out.
 

JimmyMac

Lifetime Supporter
Cheers Frank,

I first saw those valves on P1008 when we laser surveyed it in 2006.
One of these days I will get a suitable design done for a dump system, perhaps you can help me ?

DSCN0996.jpg
 

Simon

Supporter
I guess with the issues surrounding ethanol and fuel hose nowadays, there something to be said for running as much as possible in hard lines with just the connections in hose. Then following a regime of regular renewal of those connections.
JMHO
simon
 
I guess with the issues surrounding ethanol and fuel hose nowadays, there something to be said for running as much as possible in hard lines with just the connections in hose. Then following a regime of regular renewal of those connections..
Ethanol & aluminium don't match either as the alloy corrodes very fast by ethonal. So be carefull with using alloy tubing as a hardline.
 

Simon

Supporter
Ethanol & aluminium don't match either as the alloy corrodes very fast by ethonal. So be carefull with using alloy tubing as a hardline.
What would be best to use…good old copper? Steel? There must be something safe from the bloody stuff?
 

Davidmgbv8

Supporter
There is always stainless, however I was going to run copper, it has worked well in my TC and TD's since they were made.
 

JimmyMac

Lifetime Supporter
Teflon lined for me so I am working on original crimped ferrule style Weber banjos to fit a quality PTFE race hose.
 
Steel aint safe, it will rust very bad from the inside.
I just opened a steel fuel tank of a Ford Capri that had been sitting with ethanol blended fuel for 7 years. It a complete mess with hard crumbling rustparts on the inside.
Stainless steel is safe. Teflon is safe, Polyamide is safe but not practical in a GT40.
 

Ian Anderson

Lifetime Supporter
Supporter
Ethanol & aluminium don't match either as the alloy corrodes very fast by ethonal. So be carefull with using alloy tubing as a hardline.
Hi JP
What about the aluminium fuel tanks most of us are using? Should we be doing some sort of preparation before laying the car up for winter?

ian
 
Hi JP
What about the aluminium fuel tanks most of us are using? Should we be doing some sort of preparation before laying the car up for winter?

ian

I use this on every fill up on all our 16 classics for about 10 years now. I saved me from loads of issues I had before using it.
It even stabalises fuel for atleast three years (tested that back to back).
The vehicles that didn't got this stuff still had issues (carb inside, fuel lines, fuel tank) the vehicles that did where issue free. Private back to back testing for three years.
Competitors did not work.
As a carb rebuilder I had also stubborn customers who rather used the competitors stuff. I got most of their carbs back within two years.
 
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