GTD40 Restoration

Last year I searched and found a GTD40 which looked like a driveable car, not the greatest looks but with a nice aged patine....


On closer inspection, I noticed the build quality was not up to my standards but nothing serious to worry about...so the restoration project took off. With each item I dismantled, another joke was discovered so after some hours of digging, I had some tears from laughing :lol: but also from cyring. :stunned: A lot of creative solutions hosted lethal situations :dead: so I was glad I didn't even drove the car around the block. Decided to dismantle it till the last nut and bolt just to be safe.:thumbsup:
Don't ask me why the brakefluid reservoirs were hanging in the back of the car hanging on a bracket holding itself in the insulation material :laugh:
Time to tear it apart...first the engine came out...almost jumped out from itself being so afraid in the car...:lol:

Dismantled the engine and found one lifter at the end of his life.
The camshaft was also eaten away.
I knew the engine was not running 100% despite a recent bill of a rebuild.

After further digging into the engine, found a lot of sand and dirt. I guess they rebuild it recently but forgot to clean the engine after sandblasting...:drunk:

The Gearbox alignment is way off...guess what, no alignment bolts between adapter plate and gearbox. Someone was cutting corners here...
Let's check the suspension....

mhhhh, the spring is stuck against the wheelhub so not acting as it should be and all loads being transferring to the 10"bolt which is bend offcourse.
And found much more and dangerous stuff but lets start with the rebuild.
Nasty paint used which they use on a schip ? Sailer ahoy !?

No sandblaster but only a stanley knife...it is like YOGA.

After some sessions...

Starting to look again clean...

Now the challenge is to redo the pannels and re-using the same holes for the rivets...
 
New Suspension parts are ordered at Southern GT and will arrive soon.
Going for a complete new front and rear suspension setup using rod-ends with new AVO's. Hesitated to modify the rear end towards a Southern GT in order to lower the engine but decided to keep it GTD since my goal is not to beat the last second out of it on the track. The goal is to get a 100% mechanical sound car which handles good and predictable (as much as possible with weight in the back...).
 
Initially I was planning to have it repainted to a bright blue but after a while I started to appreciate the colour scheme on the outside. Interiorwise it needs to become black....
 

Randy V

Admin
Lifetime Supporter
I love seeing new build logs going up here...

Lots of work has been done and obviously more ahead.. It sounds and looks ilke you're resolved to bring her completely to spec so that's a good thing. If trying to make it into something it was not meant to be would certainly be more work and expense.
Flat lifters (worn such as yours) are not uncommon here in the states as the EPA has legislated most of the zinc out of our motor oils.. The lack of zinc is directly to blame for many flat cams and lifters such as yours are. Be aware that all that metal went into the sump and further through the pump etc...
Best of luck on your journey!
Oh and the mirrors? They need to find a different mounting spot down on the doors or to a swap meet..
 
Hi Randy,
I heard indeed of the current lack of zinc destroying our ancient V8's. Since last Year I use classic oil instead. With regards to this engine, my plan is to build a 347 stroker from scratch. Most of the engine parts cannot be re used due to the grid and sand. Also a hydraulic roller lifter is not possible in this block since it has no holes for a spiderplate. Perhaps a machineshop can fix this but in Europe they ask more for little machining job as a full reconditioned engine in the states. The canadian dollar is better value for the Euro at this point and I think a large canadian company is supplying the bigger stores like summit racing or jegs with their goodies. Tried to contact them in Canada but they do not supply to individuals. Anyone has connections for buying straight in Canada? Looking for a 347 reconditioned and stroker prepped block from a reliable source.
 
Oh about the mirrors...this was done to pass the UK rulez I guess since you need to be able to readjust them from inside. I might be wrong. Luckly there are already holes on the bonnet/hood to accept those standard bullet mirrors. Was planning to set up some black bullet mirrors.
 

Randy V

Admin
Lifetime Supporter
Comp Cams has a retro-fit roller lifter setup that works well - I've installed a couple now. You can also use solid roller lifters with a tie-bar, but be prepared to be chasing after valve adjustments every 500 miles or so...

Good news on those mirrors. While I do like that style of mirror (will be using 70 Ford Torino variant of same mirror on my car), I think mounting them up high not only blocks a critical line of vision but also ruins the lines of the car..
Carry on and good luck with the removal of all that paint on the chassis!
 
Hi Randy, I used that set on other projects but you need to have 2 screwthreads in the block and the old 302 blocks do not have this provision. Planning to use a clean and already reconditioned block. Dart block is also an option but set you back another 1000$.
 
Nice to see another GTD being rebuilt nicely... :thumbsup: I just made a new rear cockpit panneling and insulated firewall on mine last month... Discovered same ugly hidden kind of jokes...

Keep up to good work !
 

Keith

Moderator
Hi Randy, I used that set on other projects but you need to have 2 screwthreads in the block and the old 302 blocks do not have this provision. Planning to use a clean and already reconditioned block. Dart block is also an option but set you back another 1000$.

How's the ££££ to the Euro these days? If it's OK, you could try these people. They seem to have all the goodies you need, and more:

Real Steel
 
Last edited:

Malcolm

Supporter
New Suspension parts are ordered at Southern GT and will arrive soon.
Going for a complete new front and rear suspension setup using rod-ends with new AVO's. Hesitated to modify the rear end towards a Southern GT in order to lower the engine but decided to keep it GTD since my goal is not to beat the last second out of it on the track. The goal is to get a 100% mechanical sound car which handles good and predictable (as much as possible with weight in the back...).
I would strongly recommend the Southern GT rear end from Mick as now your car is stripped down it will never be this simple to do again plus the benefits are huge in road handling as well for the odd track day. If you haven't driven GTD handling and Southern GT handling to compare it may be hard to gauge the benefits so whilst the GTD is no disaster the Southern GT upgrade is well worth it. I have had my GTD 25 years now and the last 6 have been with the Southern GT upgrade. Love it!
 
The pounds to euro is quite a disaster at the moment...the US dollar is bit better but Canadian dollar is best for Euro.

I do believe the Southern GT is an improvement but for my purpose felt like it is not needed. Noticed the top arms at the rear are put higher so camber is less progressive on bumps but the lower arms have shorter radius to give room to drop the transmission. This has a small disadvantage but overall I think the Southern GT is better balanced. To my feel the rod ends and new springs will already be an improvement compared to the GTD.
 

Randy V

Admin
Lifetime Supporter
Hi Randy, I used that set on other projects but you need to have 2 screwthreads in the block and the old 302 blocks do not have this provision. Planning to use a clean and already reconditioned block. Dart block is also an option but set you back another 1000$.
I have drilled those holes in the block. You must go with shallow holes no more than 3/8" deep and use a bottoming 1/4-20 Tap, but it works just fine... That is the way I have installed that kit. As I recall, one of the holes is right above a cam bearing. Would be best to do this drilling as part of your block prep prior to cleaning and assembly...
 
Small update...an easy one.
Initially the pedal had some rubber "glued" with carpet glue :drunk:
Added some anti slip tape instead.

 
Some rear sheet metal work

The benefit of the old panels is you have a starting point which can be improved.

Copy only the good stuff..


The panel was not supported so added a small support plate.





Also the other side needed replacement.



Initial the fuel pump setup was at the right but decided to move it to the left side.
The ignition control and a small fuse box will be moved inside the car.
Looking for a clean and tidy engine bay...

About the airconditioning I have bit lack of space since the wiper mechanism in too far in the middle aswell the pedalbox. Looking to for alternative airco setup's compared to the standard GTD40 setup.
 
Hi Mike,
This No8 looks nicely build. That is the benefit if you can start from scratch.
I know CBS, Vintage Air and Nostalgic parts...still the airco/heater unit is too big.
Have already a unit which is the same as Southern #8 is using, the benefit of the way he mounted it, is the routing for the tubing. However the hot water hoses needs to go to the front...than the question is how to route them back to the rear of the car, there is no tunnel to hide them...or I need to tap them from the big tubes towards the radiator, and use an extra pump to circulate the water to the heater matrix...
 
Hi Mike,
This No8 looks nicely build. That is the benefit if you can start from scratch.
I know CBS, Vintage Air and Nostalgic parts...still the airco/heater unit is too big.
Have already a unit which is the same as Southern #8 is using, the benefit of the way he mounted it, is the routing for the tubing. However the hot water hoses needs to go to the front...than the question is how to route them back to the rear of the car, there is no tunnel to hide them...or I need to tap them from the big tubes towards the radiator, and use an extra pump to circulate the water to the heater matrix...
I purposefully ordered my AC from Nostalgic without the heater matrix, why not just, not connect it, do you really need it?....
 
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