Hillclimb Photos


Some photos taken of my DRB GT40 at a hillclimb a couple of weeks ago. Course was very tight at the top, but still did well for it's first hillclimb. 12th outright and 1st in class. Mostly beaten by 4WD's and open wheeler hillclimb racers. I'll get them, after a slow and expensive (no doubt) development process...

Yes, it rolls too much, so I'm working on swaybars presently.

Some more pics can be found at
http://www.pbase.com/barnsie01/rd_10_jacks_hill&page=17 plus also pages 15 & 16 to view.




Looks great! - Without reading your comment re the swaybars, I would have just assumed you were doing 200mph...;-)


Hey Julian, at least you're having a go and if you're getting grip then roll isn't that bad
Tell me about your tyres, spring rates, sway bars, shockers and alignment specs -- maybe we can help a little --PM me if you prefer :lipsrsealed:

Yep, it does get reasonable grip and so roll is not hurting it too much despite how it looks. Suspension geometry is pretty good, so a bit of roll won't be hurting.

No suspension developement as yet. I keep chasing engine problems! Anyways, haven't done a competition wheel alignment yet, but basic specs are:

2.7 deg front camber (max we could get, yet maintain some reasonable caster).
1.8 deg rear camber. Can't remember front or rear toe settings, but they were set safe (toe in) for registration process.

Front springs 350 lb/in, rear 450 lb/in. Front has a higher frequency (sprung) than rear. Dampers are simple single adjustable AVO's.

Getting a custom front swaybar (speedway style gundrilled, 1" effective diameter x 34" long). Similar to DRB setup. Planning on a 3/4" rear bar (again similar to DRB setup).

Tyres are 17 x 8 front with 235 x 45 Toyo RA-1 tyres. Rear is 17 x 10 rim with 274 x 40 Toyo RA-1 tyres. I've had plenty of experience with these tyres previously, so thought I'd start with what I knew in one area at least!

Car has a natural understeering tendency presently under part throttle, tending towards oversteer on lift off - see sideways pic above! Powerslides very nicely under full throttle exiting turns - love the quiafe diff! Search 200mphgt40 on youtube to see a bit of incar footage with some powerslides happening - all very controllable, but basically done to get car out of understeering state, so not the quickest technique yet I know.

I know you've had a fair old competition history in DRB's. I don't know of any others who have pushed them real hard - any tips very welcome, as I'm basically starting from scratch here.

Motor is 380 RWHP 347 with 016 trans with a quaife torsen diff installed (nice sharp snappy gearing), so power is not an issue.


It looks pretty good Julian --for a start. There'll be a fair bit of trial and error to suit your requirements in the handling department.
Any other secrets I have will be PMd :blank:
Hopfully this list will help a little :-


Julian, I'm sure Chris will be able to give you advice from experience. It sure looks like a lot of roll for a GT40, but the outside wheels, which are doing the cornering work, look to be positioned nicely at 90 deg. to the road so this is good and the geometry is working. With stiffer anti-roll bars, you will have the same weight transfer but with less movement. Experiment with adjustment to see what suits your driving style; DRB have, I think, infinitely adjustable rear bars (measure equally out along the bar arms) and three position front bars, but maybe you haven't got any bars on yet?

Happy motoring,


Pete McCluskey.

Lifetime Supporter
She was / is still a reasonably competitive "street" car (was never built as race car) -- although it didn't like some of the motors we built for it over the last 12 years, she still uses the same unmolested G50/01 trans (probably the same oil as well :laugh:)
Chris, Thanks for posting the PDF file, very helpful.
Your car looks great julian. I am sure there is nothing like blasting along at pace, even with a few technical issues.


Thanks for replies. Been away working and not checking forum.

Yes, I thought you were running 265's (or similar) front and rear Chris, and your photos tend to confirm more or less equal tyre widths.

I've got all the theories and basics sorted. Have plotted front and rear caster/camber/bump steer curves and am happy with geometry. Regarding cambers and tyre pressures - easy enough. I'll use thermal imaging to set both so as to minimise tyre temperature variation accross the width.

But first is to get the obvious done and get sway bars installed.

But for now I just need to keep doing events to get comfortable and practised again, so I can consistently drive it hard.