I need to lower the engine 2inch in my 40
Is it safe to cut the frame on the rear? Will try to post pictures.
Is it safe to cut the frame on the rear? Will try to post pictures.
how to Lowe the engine?
- Thread starter icecube76
- Start date
icecube
Why do you need to lower the engine by 2"?
Its not safe to cut the rear frame.
Thanks
Andy
Why do you need to lower the engine by 2"?
Its not safe to cut the rear frame.
Thanks
Andy
Andy
I will be using a new engine with high intake and carbs.
I will be using a new engine with high intake and carbs.
Maybe easier to invert the UN1, if you have one on your car, instead of changing everything to switch to G50.
I'm thinking about doing it on mine... (only thinking for the moment !)
I'm thinking about doing it on mine... (only thinking for the moment !)
Icecube
It would be better to work on lowering the manifold and trumpets.
Thanks
Andy
It would be better to work on lowering the manifold and trumpets.
Thanks
Andy
David , yes i have transmission and bellhousing clearance problem,
i am running un1 , so switching to g50 is not an option for me.
Pierre , i have not thought of that, i have no idea how to do it!
Andy , could not find a low intake for my setup, what is the lowest intake?
Thanks
i am running un1 , so switching to g50 is not an option for me.
Pierre , i have not thought of that, i have no idea how to do it!
Andy , could not find a low intake for my setup, what is the lowest intake?
Thanks
I thought you couldn't flip the UN1 but google seems to prove me wrong.
Flipping the UN1
What engine is it?
Flipping the UN1
What engine is it?
i was using 302 out of old mustang , now ill be using 351w
Why dont you dry sump it.
That gets rid of the sump
Jim
That gets rid of the sump
Jim
Jim , I am having problems with the transaxle, the engine clears with no problems.
OK Seems like we have half the info.
If it fitted before ,then you fitted the 351 and know it doesnt fit then what is different.
Is it further back or forward ?? you need to give more info.
I dont read anywhere what your real issue is other than you want to move the eng/trans
I did cut the chassis on my RF, but I made new members that bolted in to take there place.
Jim
If it fitted before ,then you fitted the 351 and know it doesnt fit then what is different.
Is it further back or forward ?? you need to give more info.
I dont read anywhere what your real issue is other than you want to move the eng/trans
I did cut the chassis on my RF, but I made new members that bolted in to take there place.
Jim
Jim
my problem is , when i drop the engine the intake and carbs touches the rear glass.
so i need to lower the engine .
i will use a custom made engine mounts , solid , no rubber.
but the problem is the un1 transmission sets on the frame , so i have to cut those places where the transaxle is .
i have seen a forum member build log with lowered transaxle , but can remember who.
my problem is , when i drop the engine the intake and carbs touches the rear glass.
so i need to lower the engine .
i will use a custom made engine mounts , solid , no rubber.
but the problem is the un1 transmission sets on the frame , so i have to cut those places where the transaxle is .
i have seen a forum member build log with lowered transaxle , but can remember who.
Info first. My engine setup is a 351W with a 930(inverted). I have a DRB. DRBs have a subframe members to support the engine and trans. So lets look at several issues you are facing. First let me say that my 930 sits on the frame.
The frame measures level on its feet, even with a 4" ground clearance in front and a 5" in the rear. I have a Kevko oil pan that is partitioned with trap valves to keep the oil around the pickup. It sits about an 1/8" lower than the frame and the level gauge on the valve covers measures dead level.
The pic is shot at an angle, so it looks like more. I also have a solid mount engine. The issue you have is that the deck height of the 351 is higher than the old 302. What ever pan you run, that is the best you will get. Not sure how the rear frame work looks on your car. What I can say is that if you have a true frame member at the rear anything similar to what my DRB is, you have an option, if your engine points down in the front. First, clamp a 2x4 to the bottom of you frame under the engine oil pan. Place the engine trans axle bolted together in the bay and let the engine sit on the 2x4. Measure the distance that separates the engine from the mount. That is where you want to build your mounts for the engine. With the trans sitting on the frame measure the valve cover to see if it is level. If it is then build your trans mount to the frame and bolt everything down. If it isn't raise the engine till it is. Measure the distance your engine is above the first measurement(engine to mount). If that measurement is greater than your frame you are out of luck, because your trans mount will be lower than all of your car.
If it is less than half, you can cut the frame in a saddle arrangement(U) for the trans to sit in.Weld in some steel to close up the face of the saddle. Your mounts will have to be solid back there as it will reinforce the frame. My suggestion is that it be a plate style mount to any bolts you can line up. If you can't then brace it to the side of the frame and add vertical pieces to the front and back of the cross member like an I beam arrangement to reinforce it at the saddle. I am not an engineer, so lets hear some thoughts on this.
If after all of this, the trumpets still hit the glass, then you will have to mill the top of the manifold the required distance for clearance,,,,,, or you can run it without a rear window ala Robert.
If this is clear as mud PM me and I can send you some drawings that might clear it up. My information is based on what one member did to the rear frame member of his DRB when he added a 5.4 to his build. Don't remember the trans he selected. As a last thought, if you wind up with a little nose down, you will have to run vents from the back of the intake to the front to eliminate steam pockets. That procedure is covered well elsewhere.
Bill
The frame measures level on its feet, even with a 4" ground clearance in front and a 5" in the rear. I have a Kevko oil pan that is partitioned with trap valves to keep the oil around the pickup. It sits about an 1/8" lower than the frame and the level gauge on the valve covers measures dead level.
The pic is shot at an angle, so it looks like more. I also have a solid mount engine. The issue you have is that the deck height of the 351 is higher than the old 302. What ever pan you run, that is the best you will get. Not sure how the rear frame work looks on your car. What I can say is that if you have a true frame member at the rear anything similar to what my DRB is, you have an option, if your engine points down in the front. First, clamp a 2x4 to the bottom of you frame under the engine oil pan. Place the engine trans axle bolted together in the bay and let the engine sit on the 2x4. Measure the distance that separates the engine from the mount. That is where you want to build your mounts for the engine. With the trans sitting on the frame measure the valve cover to see if it is level. If it is then build your trans mount to the frame and bolt everything down. If it isn't raise the engine till it is. Measure the distance your engine is above the first measurement(engine to mount). If that measurement is greater than your frame you are out of luck, because your trans mount will be lower than all of your car.
If it is less than half, you can cut the frame in a saddle arrangement(U) for the trans to sit in.Weld in some steel to close up the face of the saddle. Your mounts will have to be solid back there as it will reinforce the frame. My suggestion is that it be a plate style mount to any bolts you can line up. If you can't then brace it to the side of the frame and add vertical pieces to the front and back of the cross member like an I beam arrangement to reinforce it at the saddle. I am not an engineer, so lets hear some thoughts on this.
If after all of this, the trumpets still hit the glass, then you will have to mill the top of the manifold the required distance for clearance,,,,,, or you can run it without a rear window ala Robert.
If this is clear as mud PM me and I can send you some drawings that might clear it up. My information is based on what one member did to the rear frame member of his DRB when he added a 5.4 to his build. Don't remember the trans he selected. As a last thought, if you wind up with a little nose down, you will have to run vents from the back of the intake to the front to eliminate steam pockets. That procedure is covered well elsewhere.
Bill
This is a simple and well used modification, contact SouthernGT (00441489789143 )for parts and advice.
Bill
thank you , it seems that the DRB is a little bit different than my frame.
i think i am going to spend the weekend trying to apply what you explained, it might work.
or i may have to ship the car to the UK for modification.
Frank , i guess southernGT will be my last hope.
regards
thank you , it seems that the DRB is a little bit different than my frame.
i think i am going to spend the weekend trying to apply what you explained, it might work.
or i may have to ship the car to the UK for modification.
Frank , i guess southernGT will be my last hope.
regards
ICE, not your last hope at all, lots of alternatives. Email me and I will explain off Forum, Frank
ICE, not your last hope at all, lots of alternatives. Email me and I will explain off Forum, Frank
Hi ! It's not so complicated to flip a UN1, I've seen it done few times. Renault used to produced a stock car (Alpline GTA) with a factory flipped UN1 gearbox (don't even think about find one of these gearboxes as they are pretty rare as spare).
You only have to pay very close attention to few points regarding setting bearing loads and crownwheel backlash. But, unless you're an artist, you'll need a specific Renault tool to do so proprely. If not, the gearbox will not last long.
Few guys are surely able to make it in the UK.
A friend of mine has got his gearbox overhauled by Chris cole (I've not his number at the moment under my eyes, but You'll find it in the last issue of the Fortyfication, where he has making some advertisment).
He is a UN1 wizard, and can flip your gearbox safely, adding some upgrades if you need (more resistant primary shaft, LSD, longer 5th gear, and so on). Probably cheaper to send your gearbox, than your whole car !
You only have to pay very close attention to few points regarding setting bearing loads and crownwheel backlash. But, unless you're an artist, you'll need a specific Renault tool to do so proprely. If not, the gearbox will not last long.
Few guys are surely able to make it in the UK.
A friend of mine has got his gearbox overhauled by Chris cole (I've not his number at the moment under my eyes, but You'll find it in the last issue of the Fortyfication, where he has making some advertisment).
He is a UN1 wizard, and can flip your gearbox safely, adding some upgrades if you need (more resistant primary shaft, LSD, longer 5th gear, and so on). Probably cheaper to send your gearbox, than your whole car !