If you were starting from scratch...what would you change about your build?

I've been lurking and thinking about starting an RCR GT40 after I finish my 66 Fastback build. I am an experienced builder with a frame off 69 Trans Am track/street car under my belt...and now the 66 (also track/street). I take my builds from completely apart up through final body work. I have a friend with a shop that handles spraying color and finish paint work. I can weld, body work, fiberglass, primer/paint, electrical, mechanical, etc...all in my garage. looking to gain some insight from your experiences before I start another project. Thanks for the input!
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It started off as a coup from Arizona....Full Street or Track Watts link and coil over setup, mini tubed, 510 horse 363 from Prestige Motorsports and Tremec TKX ready to go in. Should be a quick car at less than 2900 pounds!
 
Nice Mustang.
Sounds like you have significantly more skills than the average kit car builder.
We should be asking you for advice.
 

Chris Kouba

Supporter
If you're thinking of an RCR (or any without a metal roof), I would do something like this:


Fantastic execution of a perennially challenging issue.
 
Welcome to the forum! That is a beautiful mustang you are working on. I am currently working on my first gt build I will say coming from the muscle car world there is a bit of a learning curve when it comes to mid engine builds. Depending on what you decide to do for a trans axle it can take a significant amount of time to get a hold of one. I have had a quaife on order for almost exactly a year now, roughly 3 months ago I ordered a rebuilt zf that I am still waiting on as well. So the best advice I can give you is start with that critical piece lol. There is a ton of good advice on this forum I have spent hours upon hours lurking in everyone’s build threads and learning about the unique aspects of these cars.
 
Nothing well maybe one thing I should have stuck with my original idea and used and Ames dash in lieu of the original gauge cluster since I am the first GTR running a Ecoboost Engine
 
Hi, I completed an RCR in 2016 and it’s a great choice. For me the most time consuming and difficult element was fitting the bodywork. On delivery, the wheels and tyres will be pretty much in the correct position. Then attack the bodywork. It’s good quality stuff but to get the alignment, gaps, tyre clearance and doors all neat and tidy takes patience and best done at the start of the build. All the panels, apart from the central spider, come off easily. OK glass fibre moves around a bit but not that much. Once done you can take the panels off and spray them.
It’s very tempting to get stuck into the mechanicals first, I did and slightly regretted not doing the bodywork first.
Either way though, it all works out but it’s a big project if you it all yourself!!
Cheers
Roger
 
I am still deciding, that is what my problem is.
If I could do it differently, and start over, knowing where I am today.....
Well then I would probably have gone and made an effort to visit and check out some more of the suppliers, as well as visit some of the museums that have originals available to look at. I would have got a lot more background information and details on what I was trying to create. Locked in a spec and then gone for it. In this instance it would be nice to be able to pin down a particular prototype chassis and just gone after that. In some ways I think i would like to do a MK II, but i have a MK I body. I want the Halibrand Wheels and I have not found anyone locally that can do those so if I could sort those two items out i would be able to maybe narrow down a particular chassis. Say maybe P1046 or 1015 or "GT - 103" or P1033 or .......
 

Ian Anderson

Lifetime Supporter
Supporter
Start with transaxle which is what will limit your power, then just build it and get it going. There are far too many people that start and then life gets in the way. I have been driving mine for 15 years and some people that started around the same time still have a part done car in the garage. Let’s face it in 15 more years will most countries even allow an old school carbed engine? - the tree huggers will get in the way!

Quickest way would be to buy a part completed or completed car, strip out the parts you are not happy with and rebuild to your desire.

Ian
 

Chris Kennedy

Supporter
Revamp the clutch activation system. I have a Superformance GT40 MKII that I drive a lot and have had a ton of trouble with the clutch activation system. First, an internal hydraulic throwout bearing failed, and I went to an external slave system and have had lots of problems with that, too. That is the only problem I have had with the car.

/s/ Chris Kennedy
 

Neil

Supporter
With an external hydraulic throw-out bearing it isn't necessary to pull the transaxle out to fix the problem. I've heard many, many people with the same story as yours, Chris. This is why I won't use an internal TO bearing. Theoretically it is a fine idea but in practice it causes unnecessary problems.
 

Chris Kennedy

Supporter
With an external hydraulic throw-out bearing it isn't necessary to pull the transaxle out to fix the problem. I've heard many, many people with the same story as yours, Chris. This is why I won't use an internal TO bearing. Theoretically it is a fine idea but in practice it causes unnecessary problems.
Yes, that's why I went with an external system (from Pantera Performance). Still, I have had repeated problems with both the slave cylinder, itself, and the master cylinder.

/s/ C
 

Chris Kouba

Supporter
Yes, that's why I went with an external system (from Pantera Performance). Still, I have had repeated problems with both the slave cylinder, itself, and the master cylinder.

/s/ C
This may not be too helpful but I have had PP's external set up on my ZF box since day one and haven't touched it since I bled it in 2012. I can vouch for its effectiveness and wouldn't hesitate to do it again.
 

Chris Kennedy

Supporter
Yes, that's why I went with an external system (from Pantera Performance). Still, I have had repeated problems with both the slave cylinder, itself, and the master cylinder.

/s/ C
This may not be too helpful but I have had PP's external set up on my ZF box since day one and haven't touched it since I bled it in 2012. I can vouch for its effectiveness and wouldn't hesitate to do it again.

Thanks---yes, my own experience has been pretty bizarre! Just curious: Do you know the manufacturer and model numbers of the master and slave cylinders? Also, how many miles have you put on it?

Regards,
/s/ Chris
 
Not much realy. First & best step was membership of this forum.
Within three days I had all the info of the project I bought (previous owners and so on).
I got in contact with a lot of members who suplied me with usefull info how to build it. They even suplied missing parts.
I build it in three years, it waiting in the paintshop for its turn now.

Rule number one, somebody else will always have more horsepower. So don't stare at those numbers.
Build your thing with your engine choise and transaxle.
 

Chris Kouba

Supporter
Thanks---yes, my own experience has been pretty bizarre! Just curious: Do you know the manufacturer and model numbers of the master and slave cylinders? Also, how many miles have you put on it?

Regards,
/s/ Chris
I don't remember any P/N's and I can't poke at it for any at the moment but these pieces should look familiar:







~7,200 miles behind a ~350hp/350tq 302 into a -2 ZF box through a McLeod single plate clutch.
 
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