Installation of Jenveys with Emerald ECU on my 302

Dave Bilyk

Bronze Supporter
#1
Just preparing to install over the winter, so I thought that I should start a thread.
I already have the main parts except swirl pot, trumpets and 3 way valve. This will be a wasted spark system without distributor. I'm no expert, never done it before but confident as I do have plenty of experience with electronics and mechanical systems in my working career, but I am sure that I will need help from those of you who have done this, so feel free to give me advice and constructive criticism as we go. Photos, I know you want them, will follow ☺
 

Dave Bilyk

Bronze Supporter
#2
First of all, my thanks to Jimmymac for his more than generous price on the Jenveys and Cobra manifold. It all helps the tight budget, and the rest doesn't come cheap. He had already prepared the manifold to match the Jenveys by machining out the flanges and fitting ring inserts, at this point I think he decided he wanted originality more. Excellent job and all I needed to do was to grind the remaining steps away. Carbide cutters and cordless drill recommended for this as I found it was slow and accurate to control.
 

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Dave Bilyk

Bronze Supporter
#4
The rest of the goodies so far. All from Emerald.
I have throttle position, air and water temp sensors so far. One thing I havent figured out is whether I need Idle air tappings and control or whether the idle air screws on Jenveys will be sufficient.
Dave
 

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#5
Hi Dave,
Looking good, I presume somewhere there’s another double ended coil for your set-up!
On my similar set-up, I don’t use an idle air control motor, just a simple throttle screw to open the throttles slightly at idle.
Something else to consider is installing a wide band oxygen sensor. Not only will it help with the mapping, you can then lean the fuelling out at cruise speeds to help with the fuel economy I run mine 10% lean from lambda=1 at cruise conditions, with no deterioration of driveability

Rgds,
Andy
 

Dave Bilyk

Bronze Supporter
#6
Hi Andy,
yes, the other coil is cunningly hidden in the box below:)
Good to see that you don't use the idle air control, I was hoping that it is a complication I can do without.
I haven't got a wb sensor yet, but did get a boss, where did you mount yours?
Thanks for the useful advice, since I currently get 30mpg at motorway cruise, I hope I can match that.
regards
Dave
 
#7
Hi Dave,
The oxygen sensor is mounted in one of the collectors (mounted between vertical and horizontal i.e. the sensor tip mounted slight upwards to prevent condensation forming which can damage the sensor)
It’s also worth mounting a second sensor boss & plug, as this can then be used by the people mapping the engine.
Rgds,
Andy
 

Dave Bilyk

Bronze Supporter
#8
Thanks Andy, sound advice much appreciated. I removed the aircon compressor and cooler matrix to make way for the parts. The bulkhead is grp so I don't want to mount on it, so am thinking of making an ali back plate attaching to the chassis. I will spend some time figuring out the best position for things once I have a swirl pot.
Regards
Dave
 

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Dave Bilyk

Bronze Supporter
#10
Hi Bob, I was very impressed, not only with the ECU, but with their discounted v8 efi kits and their helpful staff. You are right, it came mapped for a 302 so should be ok for starters. For the oil pump I saw a stub kit available, or I have the original distributor I can modify. It's on the list anyway☺
 

Dave Bilyk

Bronze Supporter
#11
Installed throttle linkage.
Jenveys have very little clearance between the throttle body flange and the lever. Plus there is overlap of the manifold flange. Easily fixed by taking off 1mm off the manifold flange and grinding down the ball joint bolts to leave clearance between nyloc nuts and the flanges.
For the pivot I welded a boss onto a 5/16 unc bolthead drilled and tapped it 5mm x .8 to take the pivot bolt. Goes in the central stub on the Cobra manifold.
 

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#12
Hi Bob, I was very impressed, not only with the ECU, but with their discounted v8 efi kits and their helpful staff. You are right, it came mapped for a 302 so should be ok for starters. For the oil pump I saw a stub kit available, or I have the original distributor I can modify. It's on the list anyway☺
Dave an easy way out is to use an explorer cam position gadget, it benefits from driving on a bit more of the hex shaft down to the oil pump which can only be a good thing. This one just turned up from the states in less than a week.

Camshaft Synchronizer Sensor WAI CAMS2801 | eBay

 
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#13
Hi Dave,
Nothing wrong with what Bob has proposed, but your system doesn’t need a cam sensor signal to function.
I cut down an old dizzy shaft and made a new housing to take a bearing and o-ring as attached.
Regards,
Andy
 

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Dave Bilyk

Bronze Supporter
#14
Thanks Bob, and Andy, that's neat and what I had in mind. Depending on relative cost (time and effort as well as money) I could go for either, but I do like that Andy.
Dave
 

Dave Bilyk

Bronze Supporter
#18
Why did you decide to ditch the 4 bbl Dave?

Had too much horsepower ?
__________________
My sweet Holley
I must forsake thee dear,
for I am but a fuel
whos' induction clear
was throttled such,
whene'er I saw her near.

Her name is Jenvey,
adorned stacks of shining chrome
atop a manifold Cobralloy
a butterfly heart, injector mist
and thus fell I, all compression gone
ere I gave her Emerald, map and mine.

So now I'll walk with efi
dear Holley I must say goodbye
but long will I remember clear
the hiss of vacuum in my ear
when secondaries came to gear.
Ah Holley sweet, once loved so dear!

ode to Holley by a crazy guy called Dave
 

Dave Bilyk

Bronze Supporter
#19
Finally starting in earnest.

Popping the manifold / tb assembly onto the block, and seeing it through the back window brought a big smile to my face, I am just a 65 year old kid after all!
A trial fit to decide on trumpet length etc.
I tried a 120mm length of tube on the rearmost cylinders and it gives a clearance to window of about 3" which seems ok.
So I think that 125mm would be my limit here.

I also removed the crank pulley which is a three bolt type, the toothed wheel I received has five spokes so can't mate, I will need to change it.
 

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Dave Bilyk

Bronze Supporter
#20
I had a look at the toothed wheel issue and came up with a better solution. I can bore out the centre of the wheel to the pulley boss diameter, and weld it on. This seems better than sandwiching it between the pulley and the crankshaft damper and having to realign the other pulleys.
 

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