Introducing New CNC Billet Aluminum Uprights

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snoman_sd

Guest
#1
As we all know the front uprights on the CAV series cars pre 100 production have had some issues. Such as the bolts working loose and lack of adjustment. After one of my uprights broke at the pitman arm I produced a solid billet aluminum one piece replacement for my car. No bolts and fully adjustable. We have machined and pressed stainless steel inserts into the aluminum for the ball joints and adjustment rod for the steering rod. Thanks to John and Jean this has been corrected on cars 100-on.


These are state of the art replacements for cars pre-100 series cars. This design optimizes the adjustability allowing full fine tuning of the bump steer, toe, and camber. The units are CNC machined from aircraft aluminum and so far have used 7071 Billet. We tapped and pressed in precise stainless steel bushings for the top and bottom control arms and for the pitman arm steering ball joint. We switched over the ball joint style tie rod to a full SS hardened heim joint which is included in the set up. The kit also includes brand new replacement IKO (brand) bearings identical to the ones initially installed on the CAV cars. Included in the kit will be both sides of uprights, replacement TKO bearings, pressed SS bushings, 2 heim/ rose joints for the steering rod connection, 2 SS machined bump steer adjusting rods, 2 machined SS 7/8" adjusting rods for toe/ alignment settings, and lock/ jam nuts for on top and bottom of the bump steer adjusting rod. All parts are either high grade aircraft aluminum or machined Stainless Steel.


We have been fine tuning this set up for a while now, it has transformed to front end steering, handling, and fine adjustment of the front end of our cars. This corrects all of the geometry issues including the hard to tune bump steer and toe settings. This is the premier permanent solution to upright bolts coming loose and dropping the front end of the car on the ground, and weak pitman arms.


We are including options for different brake configurations and are working to ensure that there will be no interferences with the 15" replica wheels. Our original design is utilizing the mounting for the stock equipped PBR (corvette) calipers that most of the CAV's came with from the factory. We are looking to ensure that the Wilwood Calipers will be bolt on as well.


These uprights are being sold on an exchange basis for your original hub and 32mm nut holding the spindle to the upright. This is to ensure that the spindle/ hub/ bearing are all installed properly. If you would like you can remove the retaining nut and hub yourself and send just that to us or you can send your whole upright and we will disassemble/ and reassemble your new uprights with your existing hub. If you would like to keep your old uprights return freight will be added into the final cost. We will press in your existing hub and assemble your upright for free excluding shipping.

We are very happy with the way that this project has turned out and are confident that these will be a great solution for CAV owners. These units will be ready for shipment within 4-6 weeks after placement of an order. For any additional information or ordering please call 760-434-8950

Price $1599.00 for one set LEFT AND RIGHT FRONT UPRIGHTS, and all included parts.

Thank you,

Larry Lemelson
































 
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New Member
#2
Larry,
Great work on the new uprights! Will the finished product be anodized? I had the rear uprights hard anodized to increase there strength and prevent corrosion. I am interested. What is your delivery time?

Ken
 
S

snoman_sd

Guest
#4
NO more custom builds my mother and father (in the picture) are to cheap to pay for quality parts

Larry
 
S

snoman_sd

Guest
#5
UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:

Hey, thanks for the comments. We just wanted to give you an update on the design change of the new uprights. We changed the length of the steering pitman arm seeing that a lot of you guys are running the 15" race replica wheels. We lengthened the arm over 2" to ensure clearance on all wheels, even Roy's crazy race wheels.

New pictures of the new completed design, in production right now.


We believe that the 7071 aluminum is actually a little hard and can be brittle. We are still using Billet high grade aluminum and Billet Stainless Steel for the bushings as well.


These are state of the art replacements for cars pre-100 series cars. This design optimizes the adjustability allowing full fine tuning of the bump steer, toe, and camber. The units are CNC machined from aircraft aluminum. We tapped and pressed in precise stainless steel bushings for the top and bottom control arms and for the pitman arm steering ball joint. We switched over the ball joint style tie rod to a full SS hardened heim joint which is included in the set up. The kit also includes brand new replacement IKO (brand) bearings identical to the ones initially installed on the CAV cars.

Everything you see in the picture is what you will receive, the following:
Included in the kit will be both sides of uprights, replacement IKO bearings, pressed Stainless Steel bushings, 2 heim/ rose joints for the steering rod connection, 2 Stainless Steel machined bump steer adjusting rods, 2 machined Stainless Steel 7/8" adjusting rods for toe/ alignment settings, and Nylock nuts on top and bottom of the bump steer adjusting rod. All parts are either high grade Billet aluminum or machined Billet Stainless Steel.




























We are also including a choice of steering rack links for either the standard CAV rack or an upgraded rack like the Flaming River Mustang II rack. Make sure that if you have changed your rack please specify which rack, or give us the correct thread so we can make sure that it fits your car.

Questions or comments are much appreciated!!!!

Thanks Again,

Larry Lemelson
 
#8
Larry, absolutely beautiful pieces of work. Very impressive. I understand the logic of pressing in stainless liners, I'm just wondering if you think there may be any electrolosys issues down the road once moisture/salt/etc. get on uprights...?
 
#9
I though the previous detail looked a bit skimpy where the steering tie rod end attached to the upright. It's much beefer now, but you have now moved the tie rod end inboard a lot. As above, this would cause big changes in the steering geo if you want to retofit to existing cars?

I thought pitman arms were only found on street rods?

Regards

Fred W B
 
S

snoman_sd

Guest
#10
electtolosys may be a problem in the distant future but I feel more comfortable with the ball joints and thread in stainless to avoid the same problem we all had with the originals of bolts coming loose in the aluminum and wear. It is a trade off, but safety is overriding my concerns of electrolosys

larry
 
S

snoman_sd

Guest
#11
electrolosys may be a problem in the distant future but I feel more comfortable with the ball joints and thread in stainless to avoid the same problem we all had with the originals of bolts coming loose in the aluminum and wear. It is a trade off, but safety is overriding my concerns of electrolosys

larry
 
S

snoman_sd

Guest
#12
Yes: the new design is much beefier, the tie rod end has been move in about 2.5 inches but on the same plane as the original position, we just moved it in so they would fit with the 15 inch wheels. You can remove the original adjustment end off of the steering rod which is also about 2.5 inches, making room for the additional length of the new arm. We supply a coupling with reverse threads on the heim joint and threads that match the original steering rod so you can fully adjust the toe by turning the coupling.
Change out from originals no problem
As for pitman arm, I'm just an old street rodder, couldn't come up with a better name for the extension.
 
S

snoman_sd

Guest
#13
It a optical dalusion, the pic makes it look like reverse ackerman, but we placed the hole for the heim joint exactly parallel with the existing one from the original upright. We just moved it in to get outside the wheel for the 15s. The center line is the same as the original config. on the CAV cars.
 

______

Active Member
#14
It a optical dalusion, the pic makes it look like reverse ackerman, but we placed the hole for the heim joint exactly parallel with the existing one from the original upright. We just moved it in to get outside the wheel for the 15s. The center line is the same as the original config. on the CAV cars.
Im sorry but the delusion is not optical.

Jac Mac
 

Pat

Silver Supporter
#17
Larry, what do you use for a steering stop? One of the things I don't like about the current set up is that the stop bolt whacks the shock mount.
 

Casey

New Member
#18
I was almost sold, but the new steering position would affect acerman.

Does anyone have a definite answer on how the new iteration works with the different steering point pickup?

Why did you move the pickup point of the steering arm??

I know it says to get it outside the wheels, but why did you need to do this?

Casey
 
#19
Hi Casey
Our new uprights have the correct ball joint angle, stronger attachment blocks, adjustable bump-steer attachment bracket as well as correct Achermann angle.
Please contact me on [email protected]t.co.za if you need further information.

Jean Fourie
MD, Auto Futura
 
#20
Jean, I take it CAVs are rear-steer then?

If you are happy to sell to non CAV owners, can you please advise as to the ackerman percentage (and the CAV wheelbase) and the total height of the unit so that those of us designing our own cars can consider?

Thanks
 
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