James' GT-Forté scratch build GT40 MkI

#1
I've been researching a GT40 build for a year now and have just started to put some of the thinking/planning into action.

I picked up the body from Darren at GTS yesterday with a 550 mile round trip. I'm really pleased with the quality of the body, and many thanks to Darren for helping to get all the parts into the transit van – it was a very tight fit!

I'm going to build the chassis following the GT-Forté plans. I just need to finish off another project so I've got some space in my garage to set up the build table etc.

The body has gone into off-site storage – hopefully it won't be too long before it can go on a chassis :).

Just wanted to say thank you to everyone else on this forum. The build logs, posts and generosity of time & information are probably the main reasons I feel I can take on the project.

I'll try and keep the build log up to date. I'm planning quite a lengthy build, so the frequency of posts probably won't be that great!

Cheers
James

 

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#2
Hi James, all the best with your build. If I could offer any advice, it would be to take your time, do it once, and do it right :)

And the best bit is, you can now change your GT40 status from 'None, yet' !
 
#5
:thumbsup:

You picked which engine and gearbox you want yet?

I'd advise getting them as early as possible, as so much depends on them and its easier to adjust things before welding everything up! ;)
 
#6
Hi David

Yep, I've got the gearbox sorted - an Audi 01E. I'm keeping my options open for the engine. Ideally I'd love a 302 with a stroker kit, but that doesn't reconcile with my 'least expensive' budget approach! So I've been looking at other options. I really like what you're doing with the 1UZ-FE engine - so that is a strong contender at the minute :). I'll leave out the cross members in the engine bay for now and sort it out when the engine is in position.
 

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#7
The only downside to the 01E is it dictates either a high engine, a tilted engine or extreme half shaft angles. I have found some where does new inner rzeppa type CV's which I think should fit and be suitable (Audi S4), and make the angles less of a worry (if you use adapters you shorten the shafts and increase the angles, use the longest half shafts you can), about £20 ea.

Having gone down the 1UZ-FE route, if you follow it, buy an entire car. When it gets to the back end give me a shout, I've got some modifications to Darrens design to make it easier to fit the 1UZ-FE.
 
#8
Here we go, inner Audi Rzeppa type CV joints (the manual suggests some A4's also used tripod types), cheapest I've found them, they're for the 98-01 S4 which uses the 'DSY' 01E and has 260hp/295lb-ft (195kW/400Nm) so should be ok for decent amounts of power/torque. I've a slight unknown as I know Audi changed the flange PCD at some point but I think the 01E's are all the same.

AUDI S4 INNER CV JOINT (BRAND NEW) 98>01 - J & R Trading (UK) Ltd Store
No connection with them and no idea how good they are but a 2 year warranty on them would suggest they're not total rubbish.

Have the manual for the Audi A4/S4 driveshafts too http://www.dj-sures.com/GraphicFile.../40-17 Front drive axles remove & install.pdf
 
#9
Hi David

Yep, I've got the gearbox sorted - an Audi 01E. I'm keeping my options open for the engine. Ideally I'd love a 302 with a stroker kit, but that doesn't reconcile with my 'least expensive' budget approach! So I've been looking at other options. I really like what you're doing with the 1UZ-FE engine - so that is a strong contender at the minute :). I'll leave out the cross members in the engine bay for now and sort it out when the engine is in position.
Seems so funny to me that you want a ford small block which I can get on any street corner ;but you can waltz down and pick up a complete body that I would love the opportunity to have.
By the way I am 3000 kilometers from home and still in the same country. The 550 mile drive would be peanuts.
Just strange how situations are different.
If you dont mind me asking what is the body worth and what did you recieve with it ?
 
#10
Cheers David - some good info there which I'll follow up. Thanks

egoman - yep, I tell my friends I've travelled 550 miles, and they go wow, all in one day?! You guys over the pond think nothing of travelling for a couple of days, taking it in your stride!

There's some info about the body here.
 
#11
James Yep I could do a 500 mile round trip & never leave my state (California). Good for you. Looks like you're on your way to being a bonafied GT40 owner LOL. Gather all those bits & pieces now.
Mike S
 
#12
Seems so funny to me that you want a ford small block which I can get on any street corner ;but you can waltz down and pick up a complete body that I would love the opportunity to have.
By the way I am 3000 kilometers from home and still in the same country. The 550 mile drive would be peanuts.
Just strange how situations are different.
If you dont mind me asking what is the body worth and what did you recieve with it ?
Yeah, same thing here, every shop around here has a SBF functioning as a doorstop :laugh:, what I can save on engine stuff has to be invested in GT40's stuff shipping fees.


James, I've noticed a little bit of flex or distort at the top in the rear clip's picture, Is because of the angle? I'm very interested in the body and kit that GT-Fortes is offering...

Good luck with your build James!
 
#13
I've said it before, if in the US (and close by) going anything other than SBF isn't a realistic option, there just isn't a question about it. So many engines, so many builders, so many parts. Cheap power.

Here in the UK you have to ask how authentic you want to go and how much power. I still think the SBF offers the best amount of N/A power for your money, not as stock but there are *so* many tuning parts for them and so much competition you can get serious power for not that much (especially if you have someone in the states to help or who makes regular UKUS trips).

GM's LS series I don't see much point in, if you're going American, go SBF. Nice engines though, lots of power but not that cheap here.

RV8 offers you the cheapest V8 but need money spending to get any power, very light though. BMW V8's are expensive, complicated and not that reliable, Audi V8's are complicated and unknown, nice power as stock but expensive and tricky to get running. Lexus/Toyota V8's are cheap, reliable and make OK (but not exceptional) power N/A, all three BMW, Lexus and Audi are very expensive to N/A tune. The advantage of the Lexus/Toyota 1UZ-FE is that you can reliably boost it to close to 600hp without modifications and plenty more if you open it up and reduce compression. If that is you want/can cope with a F/I motor rather than a N/A motor that is.
All (except the heavy iron blocked 4.7l Toyota 2UZ-FE) are rather 'small', 4-4.4l in comparison to the 4.7-7l SBF's.

One thing not to forget is how much extras add up and the grief of going down the path less travelled, better to learn from others than find out the hard way! :)

For all except a few people for whom compromise is not an option, engine choice is somewhat of a compromise between what is available, power, cost and reliability. Good luck with whatever direction you choose.
 
#14
Yeah, same thing here, every shop around here has a SBF functioning as a doorstop :laugh:, what I can save on engine stuff has to be invested in GT40's stuff shipping fees.


James, I've noticed a little bit of flex or distort at the top in the rear clip's picture, Is because of the angle? I'm very interested in the body and kit that GT-Fortes is offering...

Good luck with your build James!
Thanks Enrique. Yep, I'd just laid it on the floor for a quick photo - think it was resting on something at the front which gave it a bit of a twist. Everything's all neatly stored now.
 
#15
Quick tool update...

Picked up an engine crane today. It's well used and could do with a re-paint, but looks to work just fine. Need an engine now to make use of it :)
 

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