Another good day in the shed, crap weather so toy time.
Have paneled the inside of the chassis, the inside lower panels are riveted and the top sides are screwed so you can access it inside for fuel tank and gear change components.
At last, the Mk2 fuel tank installed and the lower side panel glued and riveted in place.
Had a small problem with the first tank due to a measure once cut twice issue. Much happier with the new tank anyway.
Now it can come off the rotisserie and I can restart the assembly when we get back from another holiday in Australia, going up to Port Douglas for 10 days of sunshine.
Geez mate at the rate your going youll be finished before me.
enjoy PD, but keep an eye out for mud Geckos, their not only plentiful up that way, they grow bloody big too. lol
Just squeezed this trip in before we will probably have to start treatment again, land back on the Tuesday and back to the clinic on Wed so we should be refreshed for what ever the results are.
Still got lots of work to go yet, got to assemble all the motor / systems yet.
Just getting my head around what is needed for the computer so will pick your brains.
Given that I am not running a Microtec dash and already have an oil pressure system, do I need to run any air temp sender? running ITB`S means that there is no plenum to take common air temps. Should we take air temp elsewhere? I also have separate water temp gauges on the dash.
Do I need to run fuel pressure sender thru the computer? as it will also be manually adjusted.
Any point in putting in exh gas sensors in the tail pipes?
Where are you at with your axels?
All the best
Ps Judging from the scale sizes on some of the belts for sale.....big bubbers
yeah they get pretty bloody big alright, air temp sensor depends on your ECU, I'm running an OEM commodore ECU so I just have the air temp sensor zip tied to the front cross brace on the ITB's. as long as its in the air stream somewhere close its ok,
fuel pressure is set to injector type and forget, no need for any connectivity to ECU.
exhaust gas sensors, unless your going to run a self tuning closed loop type ECU, no. most only operate in idle anyway.
axles are getting made in New Plymouth as we speak, so it should be driveable by the end of the month. then panel and paint .
Well after another two weeks holiday it was back on the job....thousands (well hundreds) of rivets later, almost all of the panel work is done and I can start on the many other jobs.
Most of the panels are 1.5mm with the floor being 2mm.
Well I have started to assemble the front end whilst a wait for some back end bits!
Because its a road car, I need to get a professionally produced adapter to convert between the Ford steering rack and the Toyota shaft splines as you are not allowed to weld any steering shafts. Its a drama because the standard adapter is a piece of reinforced rubber!
All my disc and caliper conversion has worked out well, BMW mini 300mm discs onto Toyota Lite Ace front stubs with Will wood brakes should help it stop. I have steering rack mounts being water cut at present and will then machine them to fit for bump steer. The radiator is now in position and its off to the hose shop to find some suitable bends.
Rather satisfying to bolt things up for hopefully the last time.
Progress is a little slower at present, as we are dealing with the return of the elephant in the room for the 4th time so have been a little pre occupied.
Accordingly I have been doing little bits and pieces, got the trans axel mated up and installed last week( thanks Peter Kohler for the drawings), everything seems to fit) and have been busy on the mill and lathe making anti roll bar mounts, steering rack mounts and a conversion `clamp` to convert between the Toyota spline steering shaft and the Ford rack spline. A very expensive little part to get the 2 splines spark eroded, I did all the milling and fettling even so.
I have made the rack mounts to high and will cut down to size when I do the bump steer set up.
I have the molds out now to be cleaned up ready for laminating early next year, will need to wait for the correct wind direction and send Carol out for the day...they really love that smell.
Just fitted the throttle bodies and done a little detail work. Was going to paint the cam covers all yellow....until the etch primer turned out black, so black gloss they became and the plug covers got bumble bee stripes instead, I think it looks better after all. We plan on doing the bump steer set up tomorrow and then I can finalize the rack mounts.
Progress has slowed a little but for better or worse, I decided to put my gear change into the rh side pod. My previous cars have all had the same system and have worked well. As you can see I have set a McLaren badge into the top, to make it look the part. I also used good quality 1/2 drive socket set universals that I turned down to lighten and fit into the shafts. The gear lever and the shaft are fitted into / onto spherical bearings so it works quite positively.
I had hoped to have the car sitting on its wheels by now but we are dealing with Carol`s
cancer treatment again how ever I manage to get some shed time to take my mind off of it.
Yes it does feel good to be bolting things up for hopefully the last time, I am planning on doing the body molds in the new year...might have to send her out for the day once the stink starts.
Just want to wish everybody a merry Christmas or what ever is appropriate. Its been a big year and there is more to come, thanks for all the help, been very enlightening in some areas and continue to learn from all the suggestions.
Enjoy you time and build.
Hi, here is a question for Jacmac or anyone else who can help.
I have almost completed my rear muffler set up which involves the pipes crossing the back of the car to come out the opposite side to enable some tail pipe length as I may need to `doctor` the pipes when it comes to the noise test certification for road registration.
Question! do I need to fit a balance pipe before the mufflers, what difference will it make on the Toyota 1UZ sound output. (quality of sound). I have room to put in a balance pipe of approx 30 to 35mm.
If its one big muffler with left bank going in LH & exit RH & right bank in RH & exit LH there will be no need for balance pipe. Oop's, I see you said mufflers, are they 'Coby' type with expansion chamber at entry?, if so you could put the balance pipe from chamber to chamber.