Name that pulley

[Rob]

OK guys...this one will be a true test......

I found the below pulley in my "Bucket-O-Pulleys". It worked absolutely great on this build, as it is really shallow (providing the ability to have the drive-train very forward). Additionally, the OD is very similar to HiPo size. If we could ID it, it would be an excellent piece for anyone who wanted to use a V-belt set up. It seems to not be a Ford part, that is about all I can say for sure. Here is what I can provide as clues......

So....let's put our thinking caps on. This is a very inexpensive alternative to aluminum pulleys and has a nice vintage look.

 

[Price Walton]

Could we name it Jim?


What is the pulley to do?

 

[Rob]

Re: Name that pulley...or ID that pulley....

Freewheel,
We may name it Jim, Frank, Mary...or even Freewheel if you like. I would just like to identify it's original application. So....maybe I should have titled the thread "ID that pulley"....but we're stuck with it now...:embarassed:

It is a waterpump pulley. I am using it for a small block Ford application.

 

[Jac Mac]

Think you will find its a Chevy or GM pulley with that p/n on it, have we got any GM parts guys on here to help to pin down a year & model.

 

[Howard Jones]

Since we are on the topic. What would be a good ratio to run the water pump. 100% of crank speed? 75% ? Would it be different for different aplications. Track car that keeps moving all the time above 40mph or so. Street car that must be able to idle in traffic? What do you guys think?

Mine is about 80% of crank speed. It seams to work but I don't really know the "why".

 

[Price Walton]

Iain Pretty of RF117 fame can probably help for a track application, for street a lower ratio should be OK as Howard has found. Either way the particulars will still need to be matched to your system volumes & radiator size/flow.



BTW - since we now know it's for a water pump - "Bob" should suit :lipsrsealed:

 

[Iain]

IMHO the driven ratio is less important than resolving how you deal with the air that gets introduced via cavitation from any pump regardless of whether it is overdriven or underdriven, to maintain an even temperature it is essential to deal with the steam that is generated when the pump, at the outer range of its performance profile, cavitates. Obviously the higher the rev range you operate at and the greater the performance of your engine the greater the resultant problem. Whilst my solution may seem a little extreem we are able to control 700 hp throuhout the rev range AND whilst we are sitting on the grid waiting for the starter to do his thing. Check out the diogram on my build site

Iain

 

[Sandy]

Have no idea about that pulley, but you can also look a sunbeam tiger stuff, they have a very short pulley to the point where you have to push back the flange on the water pump about 1/4" to make it all line up. They are hard to find but some of the Tiger guys make them out of aluminum. They are also on ebay from another ford that has a double belt and short fronts. The tiger has only one belt. Doesn't help with the ID, but might give another set of usable pulleys that are really pushed back.