Paul's RCR GT40 build

I purchased the RCR GT40 that Scott B. from Texas had started. Have wanted a GT40 for quite a while and when Scott said he would sell his I had to do it. Thanks to Scott for letting it go. Fran, Vicki and Kristin at RCR have been very helpful so far in getting things going. I've been building and restoring cars my whole life, mostly mustangs and classics. Worked as a auto and aircraft mechanic. Last build was a NAF Cobra. Have some other projects to finish up but can't hardly wait to really get going on the 40. Been reading thru some other builds and see that there are some real great ideas and builds.
 
Didn’t like the way the steering shaft hung down but the pedals. Moved it up and ran it thru the shelf, ended up being a straight shot from the steering wheel to the box using a double joint at the box. Two support bearings on the shaft that Will be tied together with a sleeve-coulum and another sleeve up to the wheel. More room for feet and easier to get left foot from clutch to brake for trail braking. 9576CBFF-D57E-4608-ABD2-7EADD107A865.jpegAA6E2C2F-8BEA-4D7F-B62C-D97BDBF3D7B2.jpeg
 
Looks great but should you have a front in crash that column will spear your chest.
Can I suggest a collapsible shaft instead.

ian
Good point Ian, forgot to mention that in the post. It will be built into the sleeve - column between the shelf and the wheel, did the same thing on my cobra. 0E9B594E-EB7B-4216-A49B-846808396913.jpeg
 
Working on getting the shifter, emergency brake and brake lines sorted, holes drilled. Tilted the top control cable down to make more room for the hand brake handle. Centered the hand brake in the mount to allow room for the control cables to run thru without chaffing. Wait for engine fiTment to drill and route shift cables. Brake lines seem to require a lot of manipulation to make fit.5CAF76A6-B96D-4B66-A3DC-0D0C2F9BCADD.jpeg
 
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Didn’t like the idea of the brake lines just rattling around, not secured running down the center tunnel. With some bending, reforming, repositioning and a different fitting was able to get them separated. Then built some aluminum line blocks with shrink sleeve on the lines to secure them. 69F3DFD4-0683-406C-A1C7-5B5CB409B5E1.jpeg9606FAF1-9391-425E-B66E-4337FA43A500.jpeg6CB1D525-22DC-4BB7-BA39-2843C9CAD66F.jpegACC29AC4-CFEE-4F54-A735-969C93B1BF96.jpeg21458B98-828A-4361-9DEF-65A08E663F44.jpeg
 
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Have been working on my steering column, mounts and support. Support ties the forward shelf to the drop behind the dash. Mounts really hold the column rigid, no movement at the wheel. The column was made from a length of exhaust tube flared at both ends to accept sealed roller bearings. Steering shaft now can collapse 8 inches into the column. Also can adjust column fore and aft about 2 inches.
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Getting a mockup engine hooked to the trans axle to position to build engine mounts, run-position shift and emergency cables. Fit firewall and decide whether to have new roll bar bent that follows the shape of the spyder and move it behind the firewall. I like the look of the interior without the bar.IMG_1280.JPGIMG_1281.JPGIMG_1285.JPGIMG_1286.JPGIMG_1287.JPGIMG_1288.JPG
 

Randy V

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If I had the opportunity to do it all over again, I would make a new Main Hoop to fit behind the firewall that would extend up and to the sides as far as practical...
 
Randy, that was my thoughts, have something solid for the door latches, a little more side impact protection, can’t bump your head on it and I’ll be able to pull the firewall without removing the roll bar or unbolt the spider.
 
Hello. Good to see you're using a Cleveland. What's the spec on that ? Cheers Pete
Pete, nothing yet, just a bare 4 bolt block with stuff bolted on for fitment. Plans are for a stroker kit (undecided on size ) with stacked fuel injection. Love the cleveland engines. That's what's in my Cobra and have had a couple Boss 351s and some Mach Is with the 4 barrel closed chambered heads.
 
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