Plasti Dip Thread


GT40s Supporter
There's been some discussion in other threads about Plasti Dip, so I thought I'd start a thread on the subject.

I've "dipped" four cars now, so I've got some experience with it. I used the standard sprayer on all four:

They do sell an "advanced" system with a more powerful turbine. I haven't used it, but it supposedly will have less orange peel than the standard sprayer. If I keep doing this, I may have to buy the advanced turbine.

Pros of Plastidip:
  • Cheap - $300-$500 in materials to dip a car
  • Thick enough to hide flaws - on the SLC I only sanded to 400 grit and there's no sanding marks
  • Much less prep work than a paint job
  • Easily removable if you want to change the color
  • Lots of color choices including some crazy colorshifts
  • Takes some practice, but it can be repaired easily

Cons of Plastidip:
  • Does have some orange peel
  • Doesn't hold up well on places that get touched or rubbed a lot
  • Can't be wet sanded, so it will never be as smooth and shiny as a really good paint job

Dipping process:
1) Dewax and clean car
2) Tape off places you don't want dipped and would be difficult to peel. I didn't tape off the windows or headlights on the SLC, just peeled them after I was done.
3) Apply base coat, 3-5 coats. Most pearls use black as a base, but different base coats yield different results with the same pearl. Number of gallons of base color required depends on the size of the car. My Dakota took 4 gallons, the Miata was 2.5 gallons, SLC took 2.5 gallons, and my G8 took 3 gallons.

Here's my Pontiac G8 with the basecoat applied:

4) Apply pearls. The pearls are mixed into DipPearl Topcoat. I've had the best luck using 25g of pearl per gallon of Topcoat and applying more coats to get the full pearl effect. 3-5 coats depending on the pearl. This required 3 gallons on the Dakota, 1.5 gallons on the Miata and SLC, and 2 gallons on the G8.

5) Apply topcoat. The topcoat layer is the critical layer in getting a nice gloss. The thicker you apply each coat, the better it levels out, so less orange peel. However, too thick and it will run, so it's a bit of a delicate balance. I used 2 gallons on the Dakota and one gallon on the Miata, SLC, and G8.

6) If you have any tape that is touching a dipped area, pull the tape before the last coat is dry. This has to be done within a couple minutes so plan ahead.

7) After it's dry, wipe down the entire car with Dip Coat. This hardens the dip and reduces the rubber feel.

Some tips and tricks I've discovered:
1) Texture can be leveled out a bit by spraying straight thinner (naptha) over the surface. Again, this is a bit of a delicate balance - the more you spray on the smoother it gets, but too much and it will run.
2) When making repairs or re-spraying a small area with topcoat, the edges will be less shiny that the rest of the area. This can be evened out by spraying with straight naptha
3) Turtle Wax Ice works really well to wax the dip after spraying with Dip Coat. After waxing with the Ice, the rubber feel is pretty much gone.

Places to buy materials is the main place to buy materials

Lots of additional color choices available from KP Pigments (KP Pigments - Pearls for use in Plasti Dip and other paints – KP Pigments) and Didspade (Metal Flake & Plasti Dip Custom Paint Additives).

Here's the cars I've done:
Dakota in Bora Bora colorshift over a blue basecoat:

Mazda Miata in Atlantic Colorshift over black:

Flash colorshift over black:

G8 in Black Hole over black:

Thanks a bunch for your tips, Pete. This is great info, especially the quantities that you used. I really like that black hole color in the G8.



GT40s Supporter
Concerning orange peel, the best I've done is the roof on my G8. Here's a close up:

How often do you have to apply the dip coat to maintain the hardness? Do you use any products on the dip (sealer, wax, etc)? Do you use standard car wash soap? How do you dry your car? I use a master blaster, concerns about pulling up and inadvertently peeling

I'm planning to do my car a few times before I ultimately go with a painted finish (I think). Currently leaning toward getting the advanced system, from what I've read most people seem to recommend going this path. Looks like you went with a gloss top coat on all your cars, was there any reason you didn't consider a matte finish or was it just preference?


GT40s Supporter
The dip coat hardens the dip the first time you apply it. You don't have to keep applying. I've had good results with Turtle Wax Ice. Regular car wash works fine, dry like you would with regular paint. There are guys on the DipYourCar Facebook community who take their dipped cars through high pressure car washes, but I don't think I'd risk that myself.

To get a matte finish with pearls you either have to mix the pearls into clear plasti dip or topcoat with clear plasti dip. The DipPearl Topcoat is much clearer than the regular clear plasti dip (it's slightly yellow and a bit cloudy), so the pearls look a lot better in the DipPearl. You can get a satin finish by just applying the pearl layer and not putting straight DipPearl over it.


GT40s Supporter has a new product line called Pro Line. Looks pretty good on the Audi R8:

I've dipped the busa 4x so far and my old Ford Raptor once. I'll keep on dipping the busa, but don't think I'll ever tackle another truck.....least not in multiple colors (light blue and black accents in my case). I sold the truck with the wrap which was done in July 2015 and to my knowledge is still dipped.

I've done the bike in:
- Matte white
- Electric lime green with green iguana pearl
- Light blue (with white tint) with pearl (forget the name of it) mixed into final coat of TopCoat
- Black with Hypershift ZTN mixed into TopCoat plus clear TopCoat on top

From my experience the regular matte colors hold up better to high wear areas. Both times I had TopCoat, you could sell where my pants where by the tank. It actually showed worse with the ZTN with the clear TopCoat as the final coat. Nothing some DipCoat wouldn't take care of, just something else you have to do. White was obviously the hardest to keep clean, but IMO looked the sharpest.

I already have the dip in the shop for my next 2 dips, and already itching to do it again.... Stuff is like crack!!

For what it is, how it's removable and how cheap it is I think it's the perfect thing for a SLC while waiting on final paint or wrap. Or you could just keep dipping the SLC over and over and keep people guessing on how many of them are in your area. :) I love the stuff, still undecided if the SLC will get dipped but when the time comes I think it will end up being done temporarily.



GT40s Supporter
Del, you should join the Dipyourcar Community on Facebook. Love the ZTN. I know what you mean about this stuff being addictive. I can't wait for Spring so I can re-dip my Pontiac G8. I'm going to try to the new Proline stuff this time.
Hi Pete
Your cars look great, I have an old BMW with shot paint it may be something I need to look at.

ps That Pontiac badge should read Holden Commodore. they are killing them of here in Oz but that progress?

Darrell DRB LS1/G50