Premade BUNDLE OF SNAKES?

#1
Hey Guys

Is it possible to buy a readymade bundle of snakes for a 302 SBF + ZF5? My pal paid $7500 to have his custom made but his was for a Coyote so im hoping the SBF has a cheaper prefabricated option.

- Vinax
 
Last edited:

Mark Clapp

Bronze Supporter
#3
Hi Vinax, the header sets are made to fit with the engine and transaxle you are planning to use. I know Race Car Replicas offers sets to fit with ZF, Audi, and Ricardo tranaxles.
 

Jac Mac

Active Member
#7
Dang, I need to get into the header-making business.
My thoughts as well, but wait, that's one of many things Ive done over the years! Hell I built the whole exhaust system on the TVR from scratch for a fraction of that, unfortunately NZ does not seem to have people that are that spendy spendy...
 
#14
OP,
You SHOULD take your car to the fabricator to have them made unless they are from the same chassis manufacturer you have. A set of headers from one chassis manufacturer may not fit a different chassis without modifications.......... (similar to the replica body parts, they are all slightly different)
Just an FYI, Scott
 
#16
I will have a set available for a SBF that are provided with a Superformance roller. My engine has the Gurney Heads so they don't work. PM me if interested.
 
#18
Adding my .02 cents here.....for you EFI guys, that exhaust needs to be air-tight, i.e. no leaks, no dependency on Hi-Temp silicone, etc. Any undesired oxygen (leak) will get picked up by the very sensitive wide-band O2 sensor and play havoc with your target Air-Fuel ratio, which can result in the car running pig rich. So a good quality stainless exhaust with DOUBLE-SLIP joints at the primary-collector union, and preferably V-band clamps at the Collector-Muffler union will work extremely well.

Now, the more advanced ECU/FADECs can be set to open loop in some or all rpm/load scenarios by a competent tuner, however, that is not the intent of EFI, so remember....Shit in-Shit out!
 
#19
Adding my .02 cents here.....for you EFI guys, that exhaust needs to be air-tight, i.e. no leaks, no dependency on Hi-Temp silicone, etc. Any undesired oxygen (leak) will get picked up by the very sensitive wide-band O2 sensor and play havoc with your target Air-Fuel ratio, which can result in the car running pig rich. So a good quality stainless exhaust with DOUBLE-SLIP joints at the primary-collector union, and preferably V-band clamps at the Collector-Muffler union will work extremely well.

Now, the more advanced ECU/FADECs can be set to open loop in some or all rpm/load scenarios by a competent tuner, however, that is not the intent of EFI, so remember....Shit in-Shit out!
Well... If you have a leak the backpressure in the exhaustsystem will cause gasses to leak out, not air to enter the system. Unless you have some sort of a ejector causing negative pressure in the exhaust. So it won't make that big difference.

Anyways it is better to have it free from leakages :)
 
#20
Hello Ole,
Unfortunately, it does not work that way with these systems. Also, there is little to no back pressure in a GT-40 bundle of snakes. You can try placing a piece of paper or your hand next to the exhaust outlet and watch or feel the pulses and the negative pressure between the pulses. However, the air going up the exhaust is usually too far from the sensor to be picked up and it reverses direction quickly. Leaks close to the O2 sensor (Collector union) will get picked up.

Most all the EFI forums will discuss the consequences of leaky exhausts if you guys need to research further...
 
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