racecar build

Hello everone, my name is Peter,

Years ago I build a super seven race car, but after setting up my own business, mariage , kids i'ts finaly time to start building again :cool:

Have been following different builds on this forum for a while.
thought it is time to share my build.

Together with my racing buddy we are building a Lola t492 race car.

It won't be an exact copy, but our interpetation.

the original car has a Alloy monocoque and runs a 2.0 Ford Pinto engine.
Ours going to have a tube style chassis and a 1 UZFE toyota engine.

After looking at different options we decided on the Lola, mainly because we both hate GRP work, and we didn't want te spend 2 years making a plug, molds and finaly a body.

The body was bougth in the UK from a firm called Equinox, it is taken form an original car.

The quality is OK, the fitting is "period" , good enough for a race car but not as nice a showcar.

From a very helpful britisch Lola owner ( Graham ) I got a drawing of the chassistub, So with that we begun with a clean workplace

after a day of hard work we ended up with this

to be continued
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Welcome to forum. Looks like it will be a nice little car, Keep us posted there will be a lot of interest.

Cheers Leon
Hi Peter, looks like it's going to be another good one to follow. Keep up the progress pictures, and welcome.

Regards, Udo.
Thanks for the warm welcom.

now we have the upper and lower chassis rail in place we could finaly place the body on top, step back and watch :pleased:

we might even been making broem broem sounds ;)

Jon doing his " fast lap"

with help of a engine lift we put he engine and gearbox roughly in place to get a idea.

After looking at the body laying on the chassis we discovered that our chassis is more wide than the body.

As can be seen on the pic below, the chassis sticks out after the front wheel

With the v8 power in mind, the chassis witch is to wide , we decided to build a new chassis, made out of 40mm & 45mm chome moly tube.

attack of the grinder

the start of the rear rollbar, This is made from 45mm crome moly tube.
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@ Geert-Jan, I live in Donkerbroek ( friesland )

@ Terry, I will do that in the future

Small update :

measuring, looking & trying

Front and rear hoop in place

looks true :thumbsup:

so far so good ;)
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Hi there
What are you doing for your adaptor plate and clutch as the Audi trans bell housing is smaller than the 1uz ring gear. I am using the same set up in a Mclaren that I am building and will be going down that road in the future. I have previously matted Rovers to Audi trans and hid the ring gear in the adapter plate allowing the use of a standard ring gear and starter motor.
You can see my build under McCopy mk5
@ Russel,

Your build is also great ;)

I have the adapter plate finished, ( Will show that in a next update )
with a custom flywheel.

I have the digital file's if you'r intrested.
I also have a spare plate and flywheel.


Sorry for the lack of updates, life is sometimes just to busy :thumbsdown:

Had the adapterplate machined out of 25mm aluminium

made a start with the front end of the car

not sure if i like it enough to stay :huh:

because we both had our doubts about the design of the front end we started with the rear.

making some room to work

decided we made the rear end removabel for easy engine mounting

diagonal in the back stay

thats it for now.

gr peter
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Why the choice of the early 1UZ? We are building a pair of VVTi 1UZs for our SLC. We decided on the later because of the better flowing heads and no worrying about spitting shims.

Here in the USA, 50,000 mile VVTi motors are $900. Of course 150,000 mile non-VVTi are only $200. But I have been amazed at how good the crank/block/heads look on 150,000 mile motors.
Frank, on you 1UZ VVTi engines are you using an aftermarket ECU to control the cam phasers? Also, could you elaborate on your "spitting shims" comment? I have not heard about that problem. Any other limitations with the early motors ?

Thank you for your input.
Yes we will be using an aftermarket ECU. Have used piggy back units before on Toyota VVTi (Lotus Evoras), but in a dedicated car it's better to do a full ECU. There are a number on the market that can handle VVTi.

The early motors have shims on top of the buckets. The bucket has a recess and the shim sits in it. The cam actually presses on the shim. These are easy to change and great to work with. At stock RPMs with mild cam's they are absolutely fine. But, if you float the valves, or want to run high lift cams, they are likely to get pushed out which is very bad.

The later 1UZs have shim under bucket. This is a PITA to work with as the cams have to come off to swap shims. So valve adjustments take a lot more time. But the cam acts directly on the bucket and valve float is not an issue.

I personally would not have an issue with the shim-on-bucket setup with stock cams, a bit better valve springs and a rev limit of 7,000 or less - YMMV. You can change out early 1UZs to shim under bucket if you want a high-revving early 1UZ.

The VVTi motors also have:
- Better flowing heads
- Larger valves
- ACIS Intake (variable length runners basically)
- Coil on Plug ignition

Obviously the non-VVTi motors are easier to wire and tune, but you are generally better off with a stand-alone ECU either way. You might be able to get by with a cheaper ECU on a non-VVTi motor. It is also a bit more difficult to get cams for the VVTi (but the Australians can set you up). The between heads, VVTi and ACIS, the later motors make better power all around. But more work to get them running.

We are building two motors, a high strung (9,000 RPM) for Mile/Roll racing and a more reasonable (7,500 RPM) motor for Open Road Racing. Both VVTi.

BTW, if that motor is a '94 or earlier, then those connecting rods are desirable even if you decide to go with a VVTi engine. Not sure how much HP they are good for, but the '94 and earlier rods are clearly more robust than any other 1UZ/2UZ/3UZ factory rod.