Racing Seats for the GT40R

Pathfinder Motorsports

Sponsoring Vendor
Seats are a big topic among GT40 owners, given that the car is difficult for some tall drivers to fit (hence the 'Gurney Bubble'). A further complication is when there might be multiple drivers in a race, since you don't adjust the seats but instead adjust the pedal assembly - no easy feat, especially during a pitstop. With this in mind, a forum member asked us what special/custom seating Pathfinder Motorsports offered our customers.

One solution was to eliminate the standard SPF open-cell foam rubber and replace it with a high-grade closed cell foam designed for military aviation. This can allow almost an inch or two additional head room - especially helpful if you're also wearing a helmet because the car is being raced - and still afford comfort for an extended stint on the track. We also tried our best to keep that unique GT40 mass-grommetted-seat look that has become associated with the car, and in a nod towards originality, replace the standard Alcantara with original spec black parachute cloth or Nomex.

GT40P/2091R was built by Pathfinder for endurance racing, so a versatile seating solution was important. What we designed was an aluminum frame seat with substantial side bolsters, closed-cell seat cushion, and a unique adjustment block on the back of the seat that was fitted for each driver and moved him either forward or aft, depending on his size/height. During a pit stop the block would be replaced by the relief driver prior to entering the car. This is how it looked:

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We also built special seating for our street customers (including a GT40R in full race spec but with a/c). That seat also used thinner and firmer foam cushioning and an aluminum shell for strength and padded high side bolsters.

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When you begin considering the purchase of a GT40 or GT40R, give some thought as to its intended use, and then weigh whether a custom seating option might be appropriate.
 

Pathfinder Motorsports

Sponsoring Vendor
The question is sometimes raised about using the original style seat webbing in a GT40R, as seen in this photo from the restoration of P/1036:

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Racing Icons

While these certainly lend a more authentic air to your GT40 - albeit hidden for all intents and purposes - they have the disadvantage of increasing the seat height as they have to suspend the driver's butt off the chassis floor. They also have a tendency to go brittle and tear.

Original seat webbing is an option when ordering a GT40R, but frankly it is neither as practical nor as comfortable as Pathfinder's closed-cell foam seats and not worth the extra cost. On our seats we can even add a little additional side bolster to better secure the driver than the original - while being virtually unnoticeable.

We even use a synthetic burlap layer above the foam cushioning - visible through the grommets - to duplicate the look of the GT40 seats from the '60's. (An obsessive detail, to be sure, but it is what distinguishes our cars from all but the Gelscoe and Holman Moody models.)

When our seats are then wrapped with black parachute cloth or black Nomex, and ventilated with brass grommets as found on some of the early-Mk I's, you have a seat that looks authentic and is also comfortable for long distances - whether in an endurance race or cross-country.

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These are the custom-built Pathfinder seats made for GT40P/2094R
 
Alan,
Congrats on building a great seat. I really like the street version. I have never been real enamored with the GT 40 seats. The cars I have ridden in have always left me with a feeling of sliding around in the seat with the standard seat belts. I am 5-9 and 160 so I am not skinny by any means. I am sure a harness will stop that. But I felt the side support was never really there. I bought my seats early(Racetech Saker) in my build and they will do nicely for the time being. I would like to get something more in the line of the original seats for the correct look. Probably this winter or later on in the spring. Yours looks very promising. Want to get some seat time with the car before considering which seat to get.
Could you post the dimensions of the seat to get an idea of how it will work in the various cars and how it will fit the various body frames(human). Sort of like this:

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Thanks,

Bill

Bill
 
Nice job on the racing seats Alan. I've done some track days, but have wondered how to accommodate a submarine strap without butchering the stock SPF seat. Great way to gain a little more helmet room too!
 
Hi all, I have been searching "SPF GT40 pedal adjustment for tall drivers" and have not found either a step by step description or the procedure with photos to help illustrate the process. I understand adjustment is not easy, but I would like to know what I'm getting into so I am reaching out here for those owners who have made this adjustment. Photos would also be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Dave.
 

Rick Muck- Mark IV

GT40s Sponsor
Supporter
Hi all, I have been searching "SPF GT40 pedal adjustment for tall drivers" and have not found either a step by step description or the procedure with photos to help illustrate the process. I understand adjustment is not easy, but I would like to know what I'm getting into so I am reaching out here for those owners who have made this adjustment. Photos would also be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Dave.
Dave,
Remove the four bolts from the bottom of the pedal assembly, the two from the top (need to pull the front clip and the move the A/C box) and then "duck walk" the unit to where you want it. Hard? No, time consuming? Yes. Hand ripper? Well, there are a lot of steel edges, so a pair of mechanics gloves are a good idea. Be sure to replace the bolts in the correct locations, had a car that had longer 13 MM bolts put in the wrong location, and they fouled the throttle assembly causing the throttle to "catch" at 2000 RPM.
 
Dave,
Remove the four bolts from the bottom of the pedal assembly, the two from the top (need to pull the front clip and the move the A/C box) and then "duck walk" the unit to where you want it. Hard? No, time consuming? Yes. Hand ripper? Well, there are a lot of steel edges, so a pair of mechanics gloves are a good idea. Be sure to replace the bolts in the correct locations, had a car that had longer 13 MM bolts put in the wrong location, and they fouled the throttle assembly causing the throttle to "catch" at 2000 RPM.
Thanks Rick, info is much Appreciated. Dave
 
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