Reducing the Play in the Steering Linkage

The joints in the steering linkage have some degree of play that I would like to reduce. Does anyone else have this problem? Does anyone have any suggestions?
 
I got a little play out of the stock quick release steering wheel. I upgraded to an NRG and I think the steering is more direct than my old 911 turbo. Could you be feeling the play there?
 
When I first started driving my car, the steering was quite wonky. I thought the steering rack was messed up, etc. After some thinking and playing, I found that the pinch bolts on the steering shafts weren't as tight as they needed to be.

Once corrected, it's been great since. I'd check those first before you get too worried.

Also, the play in some adapters, as Cam pointed out, can be more than you might be used to if comparing it to normal street cars. The better adapters don't have any play at all, but as expected, they can be expensive. The wiki has a pic of a really good one.

My car doesn't have a steering wheel adapter, so I knew from the beginning that that wasn't where the problem was.
 
I think you nailed it on the pinch bolts. I have the NRG adapter and it fits perfect. I did not realize the pinch bolts could need tightening. Thanks....I will report back after I address that issue.
 
Hi Mark,
You might also want to check for movement in both support bearings. On my RCR GT40 the bearing just rear of the UJs was a sloppy clearance fit on the shaft so I changed it. Then I fitted an addional bearing at the dash support and reinforced the panel in that area to prevent flex. I had no problem with the RCR supplied quick release steering wheel. The threads in the UJs were a very tight fit and a couple of bolt threads got worn. I fitted slightly longer bolts and put lock nuts on the ends. I fitted a nylon shear pin in the 'male/female' area of the column which improved the fit and provided a collapsible column on any severe impact.
Hope this helps, regards
Roger Allen
 
Hi Mark,
You might also want to check for movement in both support bearings. On my RCR GT40 the bearing just rear of the UJs was a sloppy clearance fit on the shaft so I changed it. Then I fitted an addional bearing at the dash support and reinforced the panel in that area to prevent flex. I had no problem with the RCR supplied quick release steering wheel. The threads in the UJs were a very tight fit and a couple of bolt threads got worn. I fitted slightly longer bolts and put lock nuts on the ends. I fitted a nylon shear pin in the 'male/female' area of the column which improved the fit and provided a collapsible column on any severe impact.
Hope this helps, regards
Roger Allen

The RCR40 and the SL-C with the optional race column both have support bearings. However, the vast majority of SL-Cs don't- the XLR or Olds columns are mounted directly to the chassis with through-bolts, and the shaft itself is encased in the column, with its own bearings.

Roger's point about locknuts is a good one. Every SL-C should also safety wire the pinch bolt that connects the shaft to the steering rack. This is a critical connection.
 
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. I will take full advantage of your suggestions. The members of this forum are amazing!
 

Ian Anderson

Lifetime Supporter
The pinch bolts should also be of a fine thread type.
That way for a similar torque on the spanner you ger a higher clamping force.

Ian
 
I re-mounted the entire steering column to get better positioning relative to the gauges, and in the process tightened everything. Steering wheel play is gone.
 

Dr. David

Lifetime Supporter
Problem solved!.....If the play returns you might make sure you have High Collar Lock Washers under your socket head cap screws.....makes a difference in maintaining the integrity of the torque on the bolts.
 
Thanks, David..... I will just go back and put the washers in now. Avoid an issue and easier now than later. Thanks for letting me know.
 
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