Road Trip Perspective (+ Help Needed)

I just completed my first long road trip in the GT40 – 1400 miles through the Canadian Rockies to Calgary Alberta and back.

I drove the car there for its 3000 mile check plus an engine tune. My engine was built to spec by Western Motor Sports of Calgary and I wanted them to check my installation. I also arranged for a tuning session for the SDS on a chassis dyno.
The car handled well at highway speeds on the very, very rough roads – I got a little sore in the rear after the constant pounding; only thing that came loose was a harness clamp and an acorn nut on one of the side vents. The car got pretty dirty so I visited the local fire hall to use their vehicle washing bay.

Not many problems were found – bad coolant hose routing (lucky to find the gash almost completely though the hose at the shop rather than en route in one of the many mountain passes), minor fuel leak and fast idle orifice problem (not big enough). Also got a bunch of suggested improvements – plug wires, oil filler location, heat protection for the remote oil lines, crankcase venting and air filter.
SDS engine management program was tuned on the dyno.

On the way home, I drove winding up and down roads at speed through an horrific rain storm. Got wet feet!! Looks like there is a leak at the front bulkhead (probably where steering shaft passes through) and from somewhere else that soaked the carpet behind driver’s seat! Also a heavy overnight rain highlighted the fact that the light covers and windows don’t seal – lots of moisture and haze on the inside.

That’s the good news – all of that can be remedied; now the bad.

I need some help/input from you guys.

PROBLEM #1:
On the return trip, I noticed that the rear end would drift, skate, feel like it was on ice (can’t properly describe it) whenever I downshifted on a downslope (and there were lots of those, the longest of which was 20km @ 6 degrees) at any medium to high speed with no brake, no throttle and engine was braking/decelerating. Real uncomfortable/scary feeling. I was afraid to “punch it” or drive hard so it kept me on my toes for the last 2 hours of driving. As soon as I got back on the gas (lightly) it straightened right out. Rear end felt really light and “wobbly”. When I got home I checked for the obvious – a loose component in the front or rear suspension – trailing arms, shocks, A-arms, etc.; nothing obvious.
Any ideas?? Could it be something in the transaxle? Bad camber? Tires?

PROBLEM #2:
Ever since day one, I have felt what I thought was an engine stutter/lugging in low (1500-2400) rpm, no load situations. I have tried every combination of ignition and SDS tuning known to (this) man to try to fix the problem – to no affect. I have learned to always drive above 2400 rpm in all gears!! That was one of the reasons to go to Calgary to have the engine builder look at it.
During the intensive dyno work (4 hours), it became obvious the car was “porpoising” front to back with low throttle at low rpms. As I ran the engine up slowly to 4th gear, the car would bob up and down at the front with the rear end tied down on the dyno. My engine builder (and quality race car driver) suggested that it appeared to be suspension related. He noted that the rear springs are fairly compressed and have less than ¼ inch till they bottom out. He also said that some racers have had unusual experiences with Goodyear F1 tires and that the combination could be contributing to the problem.
So -> could it be the shocks, the rear end set up (camber, caster etc.), tires, rear springs/spring rate, front/rear spring combination.
Any input greatly appreciated.

All in all a great experience; I plan on many more road trips once I get all the little problems fixed.
 

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Colin,

I was wondering where you have been hiding......

1. At what speed, what gear, on what sort of downhill grade, is the car getting squirrely?


2. Don't say that I didn't warn you about the SDS setup! They can be a bear to tune. Wayne Presley(Very Cool Parts) can tune an SDS ECU properly and does "house calls". I think he's still a member here. Look him up. He might be able to help you via phone/e-mail. He has developed quite a few different fuel maps for various SDS equipped engines. A good friend of mine struggled with his Cobra for over a year, before Wayne cured it at the "Fling", in a one hour road testing session.


Bill
 

flatchat(Chris)

Supporter
Nice looking car Col. and great scenery, very picherskew. (picturesque)
Jack under the rear A arms -- wheels off the ground but weight still on the suspension --feel for free rotation, wheel bearing play ? wheel runout ? U joint-dry, seized ? half shafts in or out of phase ? --if not the above probably just the tyres or alignment
 
Downshift

Exactly how are you downshifting? What I mean is are you matching the revs with road speed correctly (b est way is heel and toeing....) It just sounds that you might be suffering a brief lock up at the back unless you match the revs exactly - can happen with a tight new high compression engine....
 
Not an expert and just relaying a personal experience. I had an MR2 (also mid-engined) that was once set up with twice the required toe in on the rear by an inexperienced technician at a "reputable" alignment shop. The car was showing similar symptoms to what you have described and was absolutely scary to drive… even found myself facing the other way when I hit a puddle in the wet on the freeway. I took it back several times but the shop tried to insist that it was normal for mid-engined cars. Only got it fixed by taking it elsewhere.
 

Peter Delaney

GT40s Supporter
Colin, apart from the alignment issue, something you might want to look at :

- I found my drive shafts were too short by about 1-2mm - at full suspension, I could not pull the inner flanges up tight to the g'box shaft spacer/adapters by hand. Even when the wheels were jacked up to ride height, they still didn't quite make it. Until I noticed the problem, I had just got the flanges close, then ran them in with the rattle gun. What was actually happening was the spline ends were biting into the cork dust seal & it was virtually acting as the bottom suspension stop. My shafts are away at the moment, getting 4mm machined off the ends of the splines.

It would be quite easy to check for this problem - just remove the 4 bolts from the inner spacer/adapter & manually check to see if you can relocate the flanges easily. While the shaft is disconnected, unscrew the dust cover from the sliding spline & check the condition of the cork seal - if it is well gouged out by the ends of the splines, you may have a similar problem.

Great pics, gorgeous car !!

Kind Regards,

Peter D.
 
Thanks guys for your input.

Bill - re #1. At any speed 30-70 mph, downshifting into 2,3,or 4th, on 6% down grade.
re. #2 SDS is tuned okay now; apparently it hasn't been that bad all along. The suspension or my setup is supect. Don't know where to start to isolate the problem with the front end "bobbing" at 1400-2400 rpm.

Flatchat - will try your suggestion this weekend when I have some time to focus on it.

Ken - My downshifts are typically bang on.

Peter - I had no problem with installation of drive shafts; they mated right up; but will check after the simple stuff has been tried.

Chris - will check my alignment. Difficult to find an alignment shop that will do this car!!

Thanks again guys
 
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