Roaring Forties 105
- Thread starter Jim C
- Start date
Hi Jim,
Just spent several hours going through your build log being blown away and then came across my own posts!! to be honest I feel a bit of an ass that I had forgotten I had seen the build log a year ago but it didn't seem any less impressive the second time around. What can I say that hasn't already been said this has to be the most impressive build I have seen on this or anyother site. I now have to up my game as you have set a very high bar indeed. When I looked at the Photos the other day I made the coment about the car not looking new or like a kit and I think that is what gives this car credds. you could tell people it came out of the 60s and they would believe you it looks like it has lived and had a great time doing it, its got a character that no other GT40 has and I just love it. Can't wait to see what you bring to your P4 build.
Cheers Leon.
Just spent several hours going through your build log being blown away and then came across my own posts!! to be honest I feel a bit of an ass that I had forgotten I had seen the build log a year ago but it didn't seem any less impressive the second time around. What can I say that hasn't already been said this has to be the most impressive build I have seen on this or anyother site. I now have to up my game as you have set a very high bar indeed. When I looked at the Photos the other day I made the coment about the car not looking new or like a kit and I think that is what gives this car credds. you could tell people it came out of the 60s and they would believe you it looks like it has lived and had a great time doing it, its got a character that no other GT40 has and I just love it. Can't wait to see what you bring to your P4 build.
Cheers Leon.
X2 on this... The talent and execution are simply incredible... :thumbsup:
Did a re scotch bright on the car on my break.
I decided to make some changes.I had vinyl stickers and roundals so I removed them.
I polished and sanded in the stickers.
I sanded in the roundals in the opposite direction and also polished in pinstripes.
The first gulf pic is not coloured it is my sons orange car parked next to the 40.
Jim
I decided to make some changes.I had vinyl stickers and roundals so I removed them.
I polished and sanded in the stickers.
I sanded in the roundals in the opposite direction and also polished in pinstripes.
The first gulf pic is not coloured it is my sons orange car parked next to the 40.
Jim
Attachments
Last edited:
I will put this up as a point of interest, ever since I built this car it has been heavier turning to the right than left at high or low speeds.
I checked camber caster paths as I was convinced the issue was there, but they are the same.
Over time I checked things but never came up with anything.
I let a friend drive the car the other day and he said straight up that he was told of a situation that it was the uni joint phasing in the steering column shaft.
He works on Porsches and made the comment that between models they are different, some are 15-20 deg and one model is 90 deg.
I had them phased in line ,being the uni's in the collapsible link are on the same plane and show no signs of bind on turning left or right.
I ended up at 90 deg apart on the phasing and the issue is resolved after about 3 years.
Yes a long time but I had no real evidence and it didn't occur to me that I should be looking in that area.
If this helps anyone else its worth putting it up.
Jim
I checked camber caster paths as I was convinced the issue was there, but they are the same.
Over time I checked things but never came up with anything.
I let a friend drive the car the other day and he said straight up that he was told of a situation that it was the uni joint phasing in the steering column shaft.
He works on Porsches and made the comment that between models they are different, some are 15-20 deg and one model is 90 deg.
I had them phased in line ,being the uni's in the collapsible link are on the same plane and show no signs of bind on turning left or right.
I ended up at 90 deg apart on the phasing and the issue is resolved after about 3 years.
Yes a long time but I had no real evidence and it didn't occur to me that I should be looking in that area.
If this helps anyone else its worth putting it up.
Jim
Last edited:
How many G clamps?????
Jim, just stumbled across your build, after seeing a video of your car via Bookface, truly phenomenal work, hats off to you mate!
Jim, just stumbled across your build, after seeing a video of your car via Bookface, truly phenomenal work, hats off to you mate!
Hi Jim
Just went through your build log. I must say, this is beautiful work. First thing that comes to mind is aircraft with their aluminum panels. Beautiful work.
If you don't mind, could you explain a bit more detailed how you made the front uprights? I really like your design and I didn't like my Granada ones from day one. They seem welded don't they?
Thanks!
Marko
Just went through your build log. I must say, this is beautiful work. First thing that comes to mind is aircraft with their aluminum panels. Beautiful work.
If you don't mind, could you explain a bit more detailed how you made the front uprights? I really like your design and I didn't like my Granada ones from day one. They seem welded don't they?
Thanks!
Marko
Hi Jim
Just went through your build log. I must say, this is beautiful work. First thing that comes to mind is aircraft with their aluminum panels. Beautiful work.
If you don't mind, could you explain a bit more detailed how you made the front uprights? I really like your design and I didn't like my Granada ones from day one. They seem welded don't they?
Thanks!
Marko
Just went through your build log. I must say, this is beautiful work. First thing that comes to mind is aircraft with their aluminum panels. Beautiful work.
If you don't mind, could you explain a bit more detailed how you made the front uprights? I really like your design and I didn't like my Granada ones from day one. They seem welded don't they?
Thanks!
Marko
Thanks Tony
I would have 50 or 60 G clamps.
My wife could never figure out why so many.
Hi Marco
Thanks for the comments
Post 54 was the first up right I made, post 93 was the second.
Post 54 was all made of tube steel, I found it was a lot of work and I was not happy with the way I had to attach the steering arm.
The inner (small 5 tubes) tubes are plug welded through the inner and outer main tubes.
When the end covers go on all tubes are welded to the covers.
Very strong but to complex to make.
Post 93 I said it is made of 6061 T6 that was wrong it is 5083 alloy.
6061 is bar stock 5083 is plate.
From memory it is about 40mm 5083 t6 plate.
p 93 was much easier to make it was a matter if mounting it on a face plate and boring the hole in the centre to size.
Place the bearing in the hole and transfer punch the bearing mounting holes.
Drill the holes and that is done.
A spacer was made between the bearing and upright to give the offset required.
Its cheaper to make a spacer than start out with a thicker upright and machine it off to suit the offset.
The lower joint hole is 3/4unf, this was drilled on the centre line of the bearing hole.
It is drilled in the centre of the plate.
The upper ball joint block is bolted on with 4 m8 cap bolts, it has enough offset from the lower joint to give 6.5 deg inclination.
It is 5/8 unf, if you choose to change the inclination you change the block and the upper arm length, adjustable inclination.
The upright has a rebate machined in it to house the top block, this reduces the stress on the 4x m8 bolts and puts the load into the upright.
The wheel bearing is a hub style bearing of what we call a VT commodore, the front brakes are of a VE commodore it was used because it has a lower hat height on the disk, this was done to reduce the distance from the ball joints to the wheel flange ,a bit here a bit there allowed me to get 3" longer suspension arms, I was chasing a reduction in roll centre movement as it makes the car more predictable.
All the outer shapes where band sawn and faced on the linisher all done to scribe lines.
The steering arm mounts via the 2 lower bearing mounting bolts, this allows me to change ackerman and arm length if required.
The alloy upright design is so more versatile in lots of ways.
The welded tube version if you wanted to make a change you have to remake the whole thing over.
Not the way I like to design some parts.
hope it helps feel free if you need more info.
Jim
I would have 50 or 60 G clamps.
My wife could never figure out why so many.
Hi Marco
Thanks for the comments
Post 54 was the first up right I made, post 93 was the second.
Post 54 was all made of tube steel, I found it was a lot of work and I was not happy with the way I had to attach the steering arm.
The inner (small 5 tubes) tubes are plug welded through the inner and outer main tubes.
When the end covers go on all tubes are welded to the covers.
Very strong but to complex to make.
Post 93 I said it is made of 6061 T6 that was wrong it is 5083 alloy.
6061 is bar stock 5083 is plate.
From memory it is about 40mm 5083 t6 plate.
p 93 was much easier to make it was a matter if mounting it on a face plate and boring the hole in the centre to size.
Place the bearing in the hole and transfer punch the bearing mounting holes.
Drill the holes and that is done.
A spacer was made between the bearing and upright to give the offset required.
Its cheaper to make a spacer than start out with a thicker upright and machine it off to suit the offset.
The lower joint hole is 3/4unf, this was drilled on the centre line of the bearing hole.
It is drilled in the centre of the plate.
The upper ball joint block is bolted on with 4 m8 cap bolts, it has enough offset from the lower joint to give 6.5 deg inclination.
It is 5/8 unf, if you choose to change the inclination you change the block and the upper arm length, adjustable inclination.
The upright has a rebate machined in it to house the top block, this reduces the stress on the 4x m8 bolts and puts the load into the upright.
The wheel bearing is a hub style bearing of what we call a VT commodore, the front brakes are of a VE commodore it was used because it has a lower hat height on the disk, this was done to reduce the distance from the ball joints to the wheel flange ,a bit here a bit there allowed me to get 3" longer suspension arms, I was chasing a reduction in roll centre movement as it makes the car more predictable.
All the outer shapes where band sawn and faced on the linisher all done to scribe lines.
The steering arm mounts via the 2 lower bearing mounting bolts, this allows me to change ackerman and arm length if required.
The alloy upright design is so more versatile in lots of ways.
The welded tube version if you wanted to make a change you have to remake the whole thing over.
Not the way I like to design some parts.
hope it helps feel free if you need more info.
Jim
Last edited:
Hi Jim
Thanks for that lengthy reply. I was referring to post 93. The version one is also good, but these are really impressive.
I really like the adjustable KPI. Having one set of blocks for the road and one for the track gives you best from both worlds. Since I don't yet have the wheels, and I'll probably get em last because they cost a fortune, I could get on with making the uprights and just machine the blocks once I know the offset. First though, I need the brakes.
Thanks again, I'll definitely return to this post once I start work on them.
Cheers,
Marko
Thanks for that lengthy reply. I was referring to post 93. The version one is also good, but these are really impressive.
I really like the adjustable KPI. Having one set of blocks for the road and one for the track gives you best from both worlds. Since I don't yet have the wheels, and I'll probably get em last because they cost a fortune, I could get on with making the uprights and just machine the blocks once I know the offset. First though, I need the brakes.
Thanks again, I'll definitely return to this post once I start work on them.
Cheers,
Marko
Dangerous building with out the wheel.
My advice and why is pick the wheel offset that you are happy with put a tyre on it.
Build your upright so it fits inside the wheel.
Place it into position using a line on the floor, then build your arms to the chassis.
You start from the outside and move in.
You want the least amount of boss on the inside of the wheel, Knock ons always have thick bosses.
Manufactures give measurements but there is always something that catches you out.
Last set of wheels I made I had sample halfs sent to do dummy ups.
They where 3mm thick x 2 = 6mm thick at the flange, I designed everything around that, the real ones turned up and they where 4mm that's 8mm at the flange , I had about 2mm clearance on the bolts.
That turned into zero clearance, so get the wheels first.
Jim
Jim
My advice and why is pick the wheel offset that you are happy with put a tyre on it.
Build your upright so it fits inside the wheel.
Place it into position using a line on the floor, then build your arms to the chassis.
You start from the outside and move in.
You want the least amount of boss on the inside of the wheel, Knock ons always have thick bosses.
Manufactures give measurements but there is always something that catches you out.
Last set of wheels I made I had sample halfs sent to do dummy ups.
They where 3mm thick x 2 = 6mm thick at the flange, I designed everything around that, the real ones turned up and they where 4mm that's 8mm at the flange , I had about 2mm clearance on the bolts.
That turned into zero clearance, so get the wheels first.
Jim
Jim
Last edited:
Hi Jim
Just finished reading all of your build thread, what a great way to spend the weekend!
Must say, THE best build thread on here, and oh my, what a car.
You've poured your heart and soul into this, along with your two helpers. Such an inspiration, it's certainly motivated me.
Keep posting Jim.....
Just finished reading all of your build thread, what a great way to spend the weekend!
Must say, THE best build thread on here, and oh my, what a car.
You've poured your heart and soul into this, along with your two helpers. Such an inspiration, it's certainly motivated me.
Keep posting Jim.....
A nice video about Jim building his car and riding it- love that engine sound!
Born This Way Modifiers Ep. 1 - Jim's Hand Built Ford GT40 - YouTube
Born This Way Modifiers Ep. 1 - Jim's Hand Built Ford GT40 - YouTube
Absolutely awesome!
I have seen you Modifiers video at least 20 times. Great work! I can only imagine how great it feels to have accomplished the task!
I have seen you Modifiers video at least 20 times. Great work! I can only imagine how great it feels to have accomplished the task!
